Greece: 5,000 Years of History, Feet in Turquoise Water
The smell of wild thyme drifting down from the hills, the snap of a white tablecloth being shaken out on a terrace facing the Aegean Sea, a tomato so sweet it tastes like fruit: Greece gets into your senses before it ever tells you its story.
The country counts more than 6,000 islands and islets, and barely 227 of them are inhabited. The rest? Wind-scoured rocks sitting in water of an almost unreal blue. But reducing Greece to its Cycladic postcards means missing the point: this is a whole European continent in miniature, where dizzying gorges in the north rival the beaches of the south, and where every village seems to guard a secret thousands of years old.
A Country Built for (Almost) Every Traveler
Greece casts a wide net. Couples chasing sunsets in Santorini, families looking for safe beaches on Crete, hikers drawn to the Samaria Gorge or Mount Olympus: the country checks a lot of boxes. Still, some travelers risk coming away disappointed, and it's better to know that before you book.
Great for:
- Fans of ancient sites and mythology: no country on earth packs this many ruins into such a small area
- Couples and honeymooners looking for island romance
- Families with kids: shallow beaches, simple and delicious food, a relaxed atmosphere
- Partiers and night owls, especially in Mykonos and Ios
- Hikers and nature lovers, from the Peloponnese to the mountainous north
- Foodies: Greek cooking is among the most generous in the Mediterranean
Not ideal for:
- Anyone who wants to escape the heat: in July and August, Athens regularly tops 40 °C (104 °F)
- Travelers with limited mobility on the islands, where cobbled lanes and stairs are the norm
- Those seeking a radical change of scenery: Greece still works the way the rest of Europe does
- Fans of big modern cities and high-end shopping
A Reasonable Budget, Except on the Star Islands
Greece is cheaper than France, with a cost of living roughly 12 to 15% lower. But watch out: prices can swing threefold between a quiet little island and Mykonos in the middle of August. Inter-island ferries also weigh on the budget, especially in high season.
| Type of trip | Where | Length | Budget per person |
|---|---|---|---|
| Cultural city trip | Athens | 4 days | $280 to $560* |
| Cyclades island hopping | Paros, Naxos, Santorini | 10 days | $900 to $2,020* |
| Family beach vacation | Crete or Rhodes | 1 week | $560 to $1,120* |
| Mainland road trip | Peloponnese and Meteora | 10 days | $680 to $1,350* |
| Party getaway | Mykonos or Ios | 5 days | $680 to $2,240* |
| Hiking and nature | Zagori, Mount Olympus, Crete | 1 week | $450 to $900* |
Getting Around on the Ground: What to Know
Greek transportation works well, but it rewards a bit of planning. Ferries link the islands with decent regularity, unless the meltemi, the strong northerly wind of summer, decides to pin the boats in port. On the mainland, KTEL buses serve the main cities efficiently and cheaply. Cards are accepted almost everywhere, including village tavernas. Wi-Fi is decent, and a local SIM card runs about $17* for a month of data.
English is widely spoken in tourist areas, which makes things easy for US visitors. In remote villages of the Peloponnese or Epirus, a few words of Greek work wonders: a simple "efcharistó" (thank you) often earns a smile and a free slice of cake.
Is Greece Safe?
Yes, very. Violent crime is low, Athens included. The usual big-city precautions in Europe are enough: keep an eye on your belongings on the metro and in heavily touristed areas like Monastiraki. On the islands, the feeling of safety is even stronger. Plenty of solo female travelers report feeling perfectly comfortable, day and night.
Friendly tip: the biggest danger in Greece isn't theft or scams, it's local driving. Scooters appear out of nowhere, sidewalks aren't always there, and on winding island roads you need to stay sharp if you rent a vehicle.
Ruins That Make Your Head Spin
No other European country has so many ancient sites per square kilometer. The Acropolis in Athens, with its 2,500-year-old Parthenon, is the obligatory starting point. A ticket costs $23* per adult, and entry is free for EU citizens under 25 (a perk US visitors don't get). Below, the Ancient Agora makes for a quieter stroll, right where Socrates used to run into his fellow Athenians.
But Greek history doesn't stop at the capital. In the Peloponnese, the theater at Epidaurus has such perfect acoustics that a coin dropped on the stage can be heard from the very last row. Mycenae, with its Lion Gate, takes you back to the Bronze Age. Farther north, the site of Delphi, clinging to a mountainside, overlooks a valley of olive trees that rolls down to the Gulf of Corinth.
At Delos, reachable by boat from Mykonos, an entire island is an open-air museum. Doric temples, mosaics and the famous Terrace of the Lions make up a UNESCO World Heritage site that still draws far fewer visitors than the beaches next door.
The Islands, Beyond the Blue-and-White Clichés
Santorini and its blue-domed houses earn their reputation, especially at sunset from Oia. But the lines for a photo, the Paris-priced restaurants and the packed lanes in July and August take some of the shine off. We think at Avygeo that Santorini is best in May or October, when the island gets a little room to breathe.
For a calmer island experience, head to the less-visited Cyclades. Naxos combines fine-sand beaches, mountain villages and ancient ruins without the crowds. Folegandros, with its Hora perched on a cliff, appeals mostly to Greeks themselves. Milos, sculpted by volcanic activity, has beaches in surreal colors, from Sarakiniko with its white, moon-like rock to Firiplaka with its multicolored sand.
Over in the Ionian Islands, Corfu blends Venetian architecture with emerald beaches. Lefkada, connected to the mainland by a bridge, has some of the most beautiful beaches in the Mediterranean, like Porto Katsiki and Egremni, with white cliffs dropping into turquoise water.
Friendly tip: book your ferries ahead in high season, especially the fast ferries. Early-booking fares on Ferryhopper can save you 30 to 40% compared with buying at the last minute.
The North and the Mainland: The Greece Nobody Sees
Most tourists rush to the islands and miss a different Greece entirely. The Meteora, 4 hours by road from Athens, put on a staggering show: six Byzantine monasteries perched on top of rock pillars rising more than 300 meters. The morning light is extraordinary, and the crowds are far thinner than at the coastal sites.
Thessaloniki, the country's second city, has a very different energy from Athens. Its waterfront promenade, the covered markets of Modiano and Kapani, its UNESCO-listed Byzantine churches and its food scene make it a two-to-three-day stop that's well worth the detour. The Ano Poli district, the upper town, has sunset views over the Thermaic Gulf.
Farther northwest, the Zagori region of Epirus is home to 46 stone villages linked by arched Ottoman bridges. The Vikos Gorge, among the deepest in Europe, can be hiked in one demanding but grand day. This is alpine Greece, a long way from any beach postcard.
Beaches and Coves: Where to Lay Your Towel
With 13,676 kilometers of coastline, Greece has the 11th-longest shoreline in the world. Navagio beach on Zakynthos, with its shipwreck sitting on white sand ringed by cliffs, is one of the most photographed beaches on the planet. It's reachable only by boat, which gives it an almost unreal feel.
On Crete, the Elafonissi lagoon reveals pink-tinged sand and shallow water that's perfect for families. On the south coast, Preveli beach combines a palm grove with a river flowing into the sea. Less well known, Voidokilia in the Peloponnese traces a perfect half-circle of golden sand, backed by dunes, with very few people even in summer.
For diving, the waters around the Cyclades and the Dodecanese offer exceptional visibility. Kastellorizo, a tiny island at the Turkish border, hides the blue cave of Parasta, one of the most beautiful sea caves in the Mediterranean.
Greece on the Plate: Where Simplicity Becomes an Art
Greek cooking rests on remarkably fresh ingredients: sun-ripened tomatoes, cold-pressed olive oil, feta aged in brine, wild herbs picked on the hillsides. The Greek meal is shared: you order several mezze for the middle of the table, from tzatziki to tarama, plus dolmadakia and zucchini fritters. All of it washed down with retsina, the resinated white wine that divides palates, or an ouzo clouded with ice water.
Main dishes revolve around souvlaki, grilled meat skewers served in a pita with onions and tzatziki, and moussaka, the layered casserole of eggplant, ground meat and béchamel that varies from one family to the next. In Thessaloniki, don't miss the bougatsa, a flaky pastry filled with custard or cheese, eaten warm from the market bakeries first thing in the morning.
Friendly tip: in tavernas, ask for "krasi hyma," the house wine by the carafe: it costs three to four times less than bottled wine and is often excellent.
When to Go to Greece
May, June and September give you the best balance of pleasant weather, moderate crowds and reasonable prices. The sea is swimmable from late May and stays warm through mid-October. Spring paints the landscape with wildflowers, and temperatures hover between 20 and 28 °C (68 to 82 °F), ideal for hiking and sightseeing.
July and August are the hottest and priciest months. Athens turns stifling, the star islands get stormed, and prices double or even triple. It's also when nightlife is in full swing on the party islands. Winter in Greece is mild in Athens and Crete but cold and damp in the north. The islands slow to a crawl, yet the capital and Thessaloniki are very pleasant to visit, with rock-bottom prices and a genuinely local atmosphere.
How to Get to Greece
From the US, the usual routing is a nonstop or one-stop flight to Athens, often through a European hub. Within Europe, Athens is served year-round from Paris by Air France, Aegean Airlines, Transavia, easyJet and Sky Express. The Paris-Athens flight takes about 3 h 15, and round-trip fares run $101 to $450* depending on the season and how early you book. In summer, direct flights also connect Paris, Lyon, Marseille and Nantes to Santorini, Mykonos, Crete and Rhodes.
For those who like a sea crossing, ferries link Italy and Greece. The most common routes leave from Bari, Ancona or Brindisi for the ports of Igoumenitsa and Patras. The crossing takes 8 to 16 hours depending on the departure point. Entry rules depend on your passport, so check what applies to yours. European nationals need no visa, just a valid ID card or passport. US citizens can stay in Greece (part of the Schengen Area) visa-free for up to 90 days within any 180-day period on a valid US passport.
How to Get Around Greece
Between the islands, the ferry is king. Blue Star Ferries, SeaJets and Hellenic Seaways serve most of the archipelagos from Piraeus, Athens' port. A Piraeus-Santorini crossing costs between $40 and $90* depending on the speed of the vessel. Fast ferries take about 4 hours, conventional ones closer to 8. One caution: the meltemi can cause delays or cancellations in summer.
On the mainland, renting a car remains the freest way to explore the Peloponnese, Meteora or Epirus. Budget $28 to $68* a day depending on the season. Gas is expensive, around $2.10* per liter (a liter is about a quarter of a gallon), and tolls dot the main highways. KTEL buses offer an economical alternative on major routes, at roughly $5.60* per 100 km. The Athens metro serves the city and the airport well, at $1.40* a ticket downtown.
Friendly tip: on the islands, rent a small vehicle rather than a big car. The lanes are narrow, parking is scarce, and a scooter or a small city car is plenty. Take the full-coverage insurance, because local driving is aggressive. Bring your US license and an International Driving Permit, which Greek rental agencies and police may ask for.