Visiting Thessaloniki
Perched on the edge of the Aegean Sea, the capital of Macedonia stands as Greece's second-largest city. It balances a deep sense of ancient and Byzantine heritage with a distinct modern energy. Between its expansive urban garden dedicated to Alexander the Great and proximity to the Chalkidiki beaches, the city functions as a bustling university hub. Founded in 315 BCE, Thessaloniki holds 15 UNESCO World Heritage sites within its borders.
Rare heritage in a modern city
The lower city moves at a fast pace, day and night. The Aristotelous pedestrian street serves as the main artery leading to the central square, where grand arcaded buildings define the skyline. Byzantine churches are scattered throughout, most notably the Agia Sophia, which dates back to the 4th century. Along Egnatia Street, the 1028 Panagia Chalkeon church offers a quiet contrast to the surrounding traffic. This area also hosts the Arch of Galerius, featuring Roman bas-reliefs, and the Rotunda of Agios Georgios, constructed in 306. Near the waterfront, the White Tower, a 13th-century prison turned museum, serves as the city's primary landmark. Thessaloniki is dense with museums, covering everything from Byzantine civilization and photography to Jewish history and contemporary art. The collections at the Archaeology Museum are essential for understanding the region's history. Ongoing excavations at the Agora, the former Roman forum, continue to reveal ancient baths and a small theater. Be sure to wander through the city's various covered markets to see the daily rhythm of local life.
A timeless old neighborhood
High above the city center lies Ano Poli, a historic district that feels worlds away from the modern urban sprawl. Remnants of ancient walls border the area, while inside, a maze of steep, colorful cobblestone streets reveals a mix of Byzantine and Ottoman architecture. The 14th-century Vlatades Monastery is a highlight, as is the Ataturk House, which now operates as a museum. Small gardens sit between low-slung houses built in a style common across the Balkans. The views from here are wide, providing a perfect backdrop for a meal at one of the neighborhood tavernas. Looming over the entire site is the Heptapyrgion of Thessaloniki, a fortress built in the late 4th century and modified by three successive empires. For a quick escape to the coast, local beaches like Perea are close by.
When to go
Thessaloniki has a continental climate, making the period from April to November ideal for travel. Autumn brings the International Film Festival, while Easter remains the most significant religious event of the year.
How to get there
International flights land at the city's airport, with shuttle buses providing service to the city center. If you are arriving from Athens, which is about 310 miles (500 km) away, you can reach the city via direct train or bus lines.
The second city of Greece, which I would describe as bustling! Thessaloniki is worth the trip, and it is very pleasant to walk around there, whether near the sea or in the old town, which is on a hill (and offers a pretty view after a nice climb!). There are plenty of shops and stalls at the base of the buildings and a few ruins. It is a different vibe than Athens, more relaxed and less touristy!