Visiting the Cyclades
Twenty-four islands of dry rock, cube-shaped whitewashed houses and blue-domed chapels, scattered between Athens and Crete. Each has its own character: Santorini and its caldera, Mykonos and its nights, Naxos and its mountain villages, Milos and its white rocks.
The whole pleasure lies in hopping from one to the next by boat, in a few hours. You don't visit the Cyclades, you choose which ones, and that choice makes the trip.
You'll love it if
- You want to change island every three or four days
- Coves, white villages and harbour tavernas are all you need
- You're going in June or September
Look elsewhere if
- Wind and rough crossings make you seasick
- You're after forests and greenery
- You can only travel in August, when it's at its priciest and most crowded
The must-sees
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1 Delos, the sacred island From Mykonos
Half an hour by boat from Mykonos, the whole island is an archaeological site: the sanctuary of Apollo, the Terrace of the Lions, houses with mosaic floors. Nobody sleeps there, and swimming is forbidden. The site opens every day, with a €20 ticket. Take the first boat of the morning and bring water and a hat: there's almost no shade.
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2 Sarakiniko and Kleftiko, on Milos Volcanic coast
On the north of Milos, the rock at Sarakiniko is so white and so smooth you'd think you were on the Moon, with turquoise water at the bottom of the gullies. In the south-west, the cliffs and sea caves of Kleftiko, an old pirate hideout, are best seen by boat from Adamas. Come to Sarakiniko early in the morning, before the heat builds on the white rock.
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3 The Portara and Mount Zas, on Naxos Naxos
At the harbour entrance, the Portara is the doorway of a temple of Apollo begun in 530 BC and never finished: four marble blocks six metres tall, facing the sunset. Inland, Mount Zas, the highest point in the Cyclades at just over 1,000 metres, is climbed from the village of Filoti. The unfinished kouroi, lying in the quarries, round off the day.
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4 The path from Fira to Oia At daybreak
A little over ten kilometres along the caldera of Santorini, from village to village, above a deep blue sea. Allow three to five hours, with hardly any shade. Set off at dawn, and reach Oia before the crowd that climbs to the castle every evening for the sunset.
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5 15 August on Tinos 15 August
Tinos, in the north of the archipelago, keeps the icon of the Panagia Evangelistria, found in 1823. On 15 August, the feast of the Dormition, pilgrims from all over Greece climb to the church, some on their knees. It is also the island of marble, whose craft is on UNESCO's heritage list. If you're aiming for that day, book boat and room months in advance.
The classic mistake
Trying to do six islands in a week. Every change of island costs you half a day between check-out, waiting at the port and the crossing. Aim for two or three islands a week, and keep a spare night before your flight home: the meltemi sometimes cancels the boats.
Our itineraries in the Cyclades
| Length | Itinerary | What you see |
|---|---|---|
| 1 week | Paros › Naxos › Santorini | Villages, beaches, caldera |
| 10 days | Milos › Sifnos › Folegandros › Santorini | The Western Cyclades |
| 2 weeks | Mykonos › Naxos › Small Cyclades › Amorgos › Santorini | From the liveliest to the wildest |
Follow the ferry routes rather than the map: islands on the same route are an hour or two apart, while two islands that look like neighbours on the map may have no direct link. Paros and Naxos, in the centre, are the best hubs. Finish on an island with an airport, Santorini or Mykonos, for the way home.
When to visit the Cyclades
| Rating | Season | Wind and sea | Crowds and prices |
|---|---|---|---|
| SpringApril and May | Cool sea, flowers | Low | |
| Early summerJune | Warm enough to swim, little wind | Medium | |
| High summerJuly and Aug. | Meltemi, rough sea | High | |
| Late summerSept. and Oct. | Warmest sea | Medium |
Our advice
Aim for June or September: the sea is warm enough to swim, the wind is calmer and the ports are less packed. From November to March, most hotels and tavernas close, and boats between the islands become scarce.
Getting to the Cyclades
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Direct flights, in season The fastest
In season, direct flights link the UK and many European cities to Santorini and Mykonos. From further afield, you'll change in Athens or at a European hub. Naxos, Paros and Milos only have domestic flights from Athens.
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Fly to Athens, then take the ferry Every island
Athens airport is served all year from across Europe and beyond. From there, ferries leave Piraeus for Paros, Naxos, Santorini and the west of the archipelago, and Rafina for Mykonos, Tinos and Andros. Allow two and a half to seven hours at sea depending on the boat and the island.
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By ferry from island to island To combine islands
Once you're in the archipelago, boats link the islands to one another. The small Express Skopelitis ferry serves Naxos, Amorgos and the Small Cyclades all year round.
Book July and August ferries as soon as your dates are set, especially around 15 August. Fast boats cost more and pitch harder in strong wind; the big ferries are slower but steadier, and they carry cars.
Getting around the Cyclades
On the larger islands, local buses cover the essentials: on Santorini, every route starts from Fira, and on Naxos they climb to the mountain villages in summer. For coves at the end of dirt tracks, rent a scooter or a small car. Taxis are scarce on Santorini and Mykonos, with long waits in summer.
Good to know
Quads are for hire everywhere, and accidents are frequent on narrow, sandy roads. Only rent one with the right licence and a helmet, and ask to see the insurance: a reform tightening rental conditions was announced in 2026.
What to eat in the Cyclades
- Santorini fava: a creamy purée of yellow split peas grown in volcanic soil, served warm with olive oil, onions and capers.
- Santorini wine: dry whites from assyrtiko vines trained low into basket shapes, and vinsanto, a sweet wine made from sun-dried grapes.
- Kopanisti: a salty, peppery Cycladic cheese to spread on barley bread. The one from Mykonos is the best known.
- Naxos cheeses: graviera, a hard cheese, and arseniko, from sheep's and goat's milk, both protected.
- Naxos kitron: a liqueur distilled from citron leaves, green, yellow or clear, served after dinner.
- Sifnos revithada: chickpeas cooked all Saturday night in a clay pot in a wood oven, for Sunday lunch.
On Santorini and Mykonos, a taverna costs noticeably more than on Naxos or Paros for the same plate. Eat where the fishermen eat, at the harbour, and ask for the catch of the day: you pay by weight, so have it weighed in front of you.
Where to stay in the Cyclades
| Island | What it's for | Good to know |
|---|---|---|
| Santorini | Caldera, sunsets, Akrotiri | The most expensive, very busy |
| Mykonos | Parties, beaches, Delos | Very high prices in summer |
| Naxos | Sandy beaches, villages, hiking | Big island, ideal for families |
| Paros and Antiparos | Villages, sailing, ferry hub | A good balance of buzz and calm |
| Milos and Kimolos | Volcanic coast, coves | A car or a boat comes in handy |
| Small Cyclades and Amorgos | Peace, coves, hiking | Few boats off season |
| Sifnos, Folegandros, Ios | Hiking, food, parties on Ios | Smaller islands, fewer connections |
How much does a trip in the Cyclades cost?
| Trip | Length | Budget per person |
|---|---|---|
| Budget (studios, slow ferries, tavernas) | 10 days | 700 to 1,000 € |
| Comfort (hotel with pool, fast ferries, scooter hire) | 10 days | 1,400 to 2,200 € |
| Luxury (caldera suite, private boat, renowned tables) | 10 days | 3,500 to 6,000 € |
- Which islands: you'll pay far more on Santorini and Mykonos than on Naxos, Paros or Milos, for the room as for the meal.
- The month: if you can, avoid July and August, which push up rooms and ferries; June and September are gentler.
- Ferries: €43 to €77 a trip between Piraeus and Naxos depending on the boat, more on a fast one.
- The tourist tax: €2 to €15 per room per night from April to October depending on the hotel category, much less in winter.
- Sites: Delos and Akrotiri cost €20 each, other sites and museums less.
Traditions and way of life in the Cyclades
In summer, every village celebrates its patron saint with a panigyri: a mass, then a big open-air meal, with music and dancing until dawn. The most popular fall around 15 August. Easter remains the great feast of the year: in 2027, Orthodox Easter falls on 2 May.
Each island has its craft: marble on Tinos, pottery on Sifnos, birthplace of Nikolaos Tselementes, whose name in Greek has come to mean a cookbook.
Local etiquette
To enter a monastery or a church, cover your shoulders and legs: long trousers or a long skirt, arms covered. At the Hozoviotissa monastery on Amorgos, you're sometimes lent a shawl at the entrance, but it's better to arrive dressed for it.