Visiting Liguria
Liguria is a crescent: Ventimiglia and the French border at one end, La Spezia at the other, and Genoa in the middle, holding the largest medieval centre in Europe.
The part everyone comes for runs fifteen kilometres: five villages set on cliffs, Monterosso, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola and Riomaggiore, and right next door Portovenere, which is not one of them and is worth as much.
You will love it if
- You walk: the paths between the villages are the real show
- The train suits you: it serves everything, and a car serves nothing
- You come in May, June or September, when the paths are open and empty
Look elsewhere if
- You want big beaches: the coast is coves and shingle
- Crowds wear you down: the Cinque Terre take millions of visitors a year
- You plan to drive into the villages: they are closed to traffic
The must-sees
The highlights
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1 Portovenere +50 recs
A front of tall narrow coloured houses, built as a rampart facing the sea, and at the tip a black and white church set on bare rock. World Heritage listed with the Cinque Terre and the three islands facing it.
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2 Doria Castle +7 recs
The fortress above Portovenere, built by Genoa in the twelfth century and enlarged since. You climb to it on stairways between the houses, and the terrace takes in the whole gulf.
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3 Boat excursions from Portovenere +8 recs
The only way to see the Cinque Terre from the sea, which is the side they were built to face. Departures are in the morning, and the sea often gets up in the afternoon, which cancels the returns.
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4 Vernazza +8 recs
The only natural harbour of the five villages, with a small square at water level and a castle above. The path in from Monterosso comes out on the overhang, and that is where the photograph everyone knows is taken.
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5 Genoa and its caruggi +5 recs
The largest medieval centre in Europe, a tangle of lanes so narrow the sun never reaches the ground. Forty-two Renaissance palaces, the Rolli, are World Heritage listed and open on a few weekends a year.
The classic mistake
Coming by car. The five villages are closed to traffic, their car parks are tiny and perched a twenty-minute walk above, and the ridge road is narrow. The train from La Spezia to Monterosso runs every twenty minutes and stops everywhere.
Our itineraries in Liguria
| Length | Itinerary | What you see |
|---|---|---|
| Long weekend (3 days) | La Spezia › the five villages | Coastal train, paths, harbours |
| 1 week | Genoa › La Spezia › Portovenere | City, Gulf of Poets, Cinque Terre |
| 10 days | Ventimiglia › Varazze › Genoa › Portovenere | Both rivieras, west to east |
Everything is done by train: the line follows the coast from one end of the region to the other, and the Cinque Terre card gives unlimited journeys between the five villages. It is the one place in Italy where a car is a clear handicap.
Allow an hour and a half from Genoa to La Spezia, and ten minutes between two neighbouring villages. The boat doubles the line from April to October, slower and finer.
When to visit Liguria
| Rating | Season | Weather | Crowds and prices |
|---|---|---|---|
| May, June and September | 20 to 27 °C, sea at 22 | Busy, mid-range prices | |
| April and October | 15 to 21 °C, showers | Moderate, fewer boats | |
| July and August | 26 to 31 °C, sea at 25 | Saturated, paths packed | |
| November to March | 8 to 15 °C, heavy rain | Quiet, paths often closed |
Our advice
Check the state of the paths before you set out: the national park closes sections after heavy rain, sometimes for months, and landslips are common in autumn. The information comes from the park, not from the places you are staying in.
Getting to Liguria
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1 By plane Fastest
Genoa takes few flights from Britain; Pisa and Milan are the usual gateways, served by easyJet and Ryanair, with two hours of train afterwards. Pisa is the closer of the two for the Cinque Terre.
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2 By train Most scenic
Eurostar to Paris, then Paris to Milan and the coastal line to La Spezia, around fourteen hours in all. Worth it for the run along the Riviera, which the plane skips entirely.
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3 By car To arrive
the motorway follows the coast through one tunnel and viaduct after another. It is for reaching the region, not for moving around it: park at La Spezia or Levanto and take the train.
Getting around Liguria
The regional train calls at all five villages every twenty minutes, and the platforms are often in tunnel, cut into the cliff. Genoa has a metro, funiculars and public lifts that make up for its gradients.
Worth knowing
The coastal path between the villages is paid for and requires a card, checked at the entrance to each section. The ridge paths are free, longer, steeper and far emptier: that is the best trade in the region.
What to eat in Liguria
- Pesto genovese: basil, pine nuts, garlic, pecorino, parmesan and oil, crushed in a marble mortar. The coastal basil, small and not minty, is what makes the difference.
- Focaccia genovese: two centimetres thick, dimpled, salted and oiled. It is eaten at breakfast, dipped in cappuccino, and nobody objects.
- Farinata: a chickpea flour pancake baked in a copper dish in a wood oven. Sold by the slice, scalding, at bakeries.
- Trofie al pesto: hand-twisted pasta served with green beans and potato cooked in the same pot. That is the complete version, not an addition.
- Pansoti with walnut sauce: wild herb ravioli under a sauce of walnuts and soaked bread. The one Ligurian sauce with neither tomato nor basil.
- Anchovies from Monterosso: caught by lamp boat and salted on the spot, served raw with lemon or fried. An appellation protects the village's own.
- Sciacchetrà: a sweet wine from grapes dried on racks, made in tiny quantities on the Cinque Terre terraces. A bottle costs a lot, and the yield explains why.
In Genoa, the sciamadde are neighbourhood fry shops that have sold farinata and salt cod fritters since the nineteenth century. In the villages, kitchens close early and many do not open from November to March.
Where to stay in Liguria
| Area | What it is for | Worth knowing |
|---|---|---|
| La Spezia | Cinque Terre base, train, boat | The most practical and the cheapest |
| Monterosso | The only real beach of the five | The easiest village to reach, full in summer |
| Portovenere | The gulf, the marina, the islands | Outside the park, so quieter in the evening |
| Genoa | Caruggi, palaces, aquarium | A real city, open all year |
| Varazze | Beach, marina, western riviera | West of Genoa, where Italians go |
Sleeping in one of the five villages costs twice what it costs in La Spezia, ten minutes by train from the first of them.
What the night on the spot buys is the hour before nine and the hour after six, when the trains have taken everyone home and the lanes are walkable again. Whether that is worth double is yours to decide.
How much does a trip in Liguria cost?
| Style | Length | Budget per person |
|---|---|---|
| Budget (hostel in La Spezia, focaccia, ridge paths) | 5 days | 300 to 450 € |
| Comfortable (hotel, restaurants, park card and boat) | 5 days | 700 to 1,000 € |
| High end (village hotel, seafront tables) | 5 days | 1,800 to 2,800 € |
- The park card: it covers unlimited trains between the villages and access to the coastal path. Bought by the day, it pays off from the third journey.
- The ridge paths: free, where the shore path is paid for. They climb more, they are empty, and the views are wider.
- Focaccia: a whole lunch for the price of a seated coffee, and it is what local people eat at midday.
- Staying in La Spezia: half the price of a village, ten minutes by train, with restaurants open all year.
- The boat: dearer than the train but it is a sight in itself, and it only runs from April to October.
Traditions and way of life in Liguria
The Cinque Terre terraces rest on seven thousand kilometres of dry stone walls, built by hand since the Middle Ages. Their upkeep stopped in the twentieth century with rural depopulation, and the landslips that close the paths come from that, not from chance.
Genoa was a maritime republic for seven centuries, a rival of Venice, with trading posts as far as the Black Sea. Its banking families financed the kings of Spain, and their palaces lined along two streets are what remains visible of it.
Two useful habits. In the lanes of Genoa you keep right as you would on a road: they are too narrow for anything else, and the delivery scooters do not slow down. And on the paths you give way to those coming up: the rule is the same in any mountain, and here it avoids passing each other above a drop.