Boat excursions from Portovenere: The best trips in the Gulf of Poets
The scent of salt air mixes with the smell of Ligurian focaccia baking in the nearby narrow alleys. On the docks of Portovenere, the hulls of gozzi, the traditional motorboats of the region, bob gently against the piers.
It is 10 a.m., the sun is already hitting the ochre and pink seaside facades, and the first boats are casting off toward the archipelago. From this UNESCO World Heritage village, the sea offers a backdrop that lives up to the view.
| Excursion Type | Duration | Itinerary | Estimated Price | Best For |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Three Islands Tour | 40 min | Palmaria, Tino, Tinetto, sea caves | 12-15 EUR ($13-16) adult / 6-8 EUR ($7-9) child | Quick look, budget-friendly |
| Cinque Terre Ferry (day pass) | Full day | Portovenere, Riomaggiore, Manarola, Vernazza, Monterosso | ~41 EUR ($44) adult / 15 EUR ($16) child | Exploring villages at your own pace |
| Small Group Tour | 4 to 8h | Cinque Terre coast, coves, swimming, onboard aperitif | 120-145 EUR ($130-157) per person | Avoiding crowds, swimming, social vibe |
| Sunset Cruise | 2 to 3h30 | Palmaria Island, Byron's Cave, Ligurian aperitif | From 50 EUR ($54) per person | Couples, romantic moments |
| Private Boat with Skipper | 3 to 8h | Custom: Gulf of Poets, islands, Cinque Terre | From 500 EUR ($540) per boat | Families, groups, flexible schedule |
Why depart from Portovenere?
The Gulf of La Spezia has a nickname that speaks for itself: the Gulf of Poets. Lord Byron used to meditate in a cave that now bears his name, right at the foot of the San Pietro church. Legend claims he swam 7.5 kilometers across the bay to visit Percy and Mary Shelley in Lerici. Dante, Petrarch, D.H. Lawrence, and Virginia Woolf also frequented these shores. Taking to the water here means gliding over the same waves that fueled two centuries of Romantic literature.
The appeal is not just literary. The coastline between Portovenere and the Cinque Terre is made of steep cliffs, hidden coves accessible only by water, and water of an almost surreal blue. The three islands of the archipelago, Palmaria, Tino, and Tinetto, form a regional natural park where peregrine falcons and cormorants nest. It is impossible to grasp the scale of it from dry land.
Excursion options
The three islands tour
This is the most accessible and popular trip. Operated by the Cooperativa Barcaioli Portovenere, a fixture on the harbor for over fifty years, this 40-minute loop circles Palmaria, Tino, and Tinetto.
The boat skirts the cliffs of Palmaria, brushing the entrances to sea caves like the Grotta Azzurra and the Grotta Vulcanica. You will spot the old quarries of Portoro, the black marble with gold veins unique to this region, followed by the military fortifications of Tino island, which is closed to the public except on September 13 for the feast of San Venerio.
Departures are at 12 p.m. and 3 p.m. during the season.
Pro tip: Sit on the right side of the boat when you leave. All the islands pass by on that side. After you clear Tinetto, move toward the bow for the Palmaria caves. The boat gets so close that the sensation is striking.
Cruises to the Cinque Terre
Several companies offer half-day or full-day excursions connecting Portovenere to the Cinque Terre villages by sea.
The route follows the steep National Park coast, with stops in Riomaggiore, Vernazza, or Monterosso depending on the schedule. The public ferry from Navigazione Golfo dei Poeti runs this route from late March to early November, with a day pass that lets you hop on and off at will.
Small group private tours, limited to 10-12 people, offer a more relaxed pace, swim stops in isolated coves, and often an aperitif or lunch featuring local products served on board.
Sunset tours and private rides
Late-day trips are among the most memorable.
The boat rounds Palmaria island while the low-angled light sets the cliffs on fire, then stops in front of Byron's Cave for the sunset. A Ligurian aperitif is usually served on board: prosecco, focaccia, and stuzzichini (small snacks).
For those who want to customize their route, local skippers offer private charters from the port. The Ligurian gozzo remains the most classic choice for this type of excursion.
What you see from the water
The half-ruined silhouette of Torre Scola is one of the highlights of any sea trip.
This pentagonal tower, built in 1606 by the Republic of Genoa on an isolated rock between Portovenere and Palmaria, was built to defend the entrance of the gulf against Saracen pirates.
Damaged by British shelling in the 1800s during a battle against Napoleonic troops, it was never rebuilt. Its stone shell, nearly 13 meters high, rises from the waves like a movie set.
From the boat, you also see the mussel farms that dot the bay, the small coastal villages of Fezzano and Le Grazie where houses seem to plunge directly into the water, and the wild side of Palmaria with its gull colonies nesting in the cliffs. On a clear day, the Apuan Alps trace their snow-capped ridge on the horizon, behind the Tuscan coast.
Opening hours
*Information subject to change
A great gift to treat yourself to in the region! I highly recommend visiting the villages by boat, as it is one of the best ways to fully enjoy the panorama. The tour of the three islands is also really worth it. You discover such beautiful heritage where time seems to stand still!