A Mini-Cruise Along the Cinque Terre Coast

Discovering the Cinque Terre from the sea

Taking an excursion to Portovenere from the port of La Spezia is an experience you shouldn't miss if you're in Italy's Cinque Terre region!

Before boarding the boat, I grabbed a seat at a sidewalk café to enjoy some Focaccia Spezzina, a type of soft pizza topped with oregano. Absolutely delicious…

The crossing takes about 30 minutes, and the scenery is stunning right from the start. Even in late spring, a jacket is still a must, despite the sun peeking through the clouds. The coast offers miles of rocky cliffs, beaches, and bays, all overlooked by a mountain range that runs parallel to the shoreline. Over a thousand years ago, people built colorful villages here on the steep slopes overlooking the Mediterranean Sea. It’s a fascinating, vibrant marine and agricultural region that’s part of the protected Cinque Terre National Park.

Upon arrival, the small port of Portovenere is a real sight to behold. Boats bob on crystal-clear waters that reflect an endless spectrum of colors. The houses surrounding the harbor are all brightly painted, and the nearby alleyways are narrow, a testament to the village's ancient roots.

Portovenere, jewel of the Ligurian coast

You don't come to Portovenere for the beach... because there isn't one. At best, you might find a few coves. Those who come for a swim usually have to settle for the rocks. Portovenere dates back to the 6th century BC. Its name literally means "the port dedicated to the goddess Venus," suggesting that a temple dedicated to the goddess of fertility, love, and beauty once stood here. Portovenere flourished during the Middle Ages, as evidenced by the walls and the stones flanking the village entrance, where you can still read the date "1113."

Portovenere isn't just an ancient village; it’s also a place dear to poets and writers throughout history, such as Shelley, Byron, and Petrarch. In fact, their names inspired the local cruise company, which calls itself the "Gulf of Poets." This gulf, which once hosted George Byron and Percy Bysshe Shelley, offers today's travelers a perfect marriage of nature and architecture. You can admire the splendid Church of St. Peter, originally built in the paleo-Christian era and later remodeled in a Genoese-Gothic style, with its signature black and white striped facade.

Walking along the path leading to the church, it feels as though the bell tower is reaching for the sky. From the esplanade, there’s a magnificent view of the islands of Palmaria, Tino, and Tinetto. All three are part of the Portovenere Regional Park. Looking out at the sea from a window here is spectacular, offering a 360-degree panorama of the Gulf of Poets. It’s easy to understand why this place captivated the poets of centuries past. Below the Church of St. Peter, you can also visit Byron’s Grotto. It’s named after the poet, who used to go there to draw inspiration for his writing.

I found myself lost in thought, savoring the sea breeze as the heat began to intensify, but a tourist interrupted my peaceful moment to ask for directions. That’s when I realized how much time had passed and that lunch hour had arrived. In the Genovesi district, you can find delicious anchovy sandwiches. I enjoyed my picnic on a park bench, another lovely highlight of the day.

Portovenere is built into the side of a cliff, so there are plenty of elevation changes. You can spend the entire day climbing up and down the endless staircases that crisscross the village. Who knows how many steps there are in total? I certainly didn't count them!

I love wandering without a real destination. That’s how I discovered the Sanctuary of the White Madonna, the Parish Church of St. Lawrence, a 12th-century Romanesque structure that was later restored and expanded, and the Doria Castle, a majestic military fortress.

As the sun dipped toward the horizon, I left Portovenere with a heavy heart. The boat pulled away from the bay, gliding over a stunning sea that reflected the sunset in the calm of the charming Gulf of Poets. Portovenere is a marvelous place, designated a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1997.

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