Lake Maggiore
This summer, during my trip to Lombardy in Northern Italy, I had planned to visit Bellagio, a village on the shores of Lake Como. However, a friend suggested I take a quick trip to Lake Maggiore instead, specifically to Stresa and the Borromean Islands. She was absolutely right, I wasn't disappointed at all!
Located on the border between Lombardy and Piedmont, with Switzerland to the north, Lake Maggiore is home to a small archipelago off the coast of Stresa: the Borromean Islands. Of these, three are open to visitors: Isola Bella, Isola Madre, and Isola dei Pescatori.
One of the most remarkable features of Lake Maggiore is its mild microclimate. Just a few kilometers from the Alps, the winters are warm enough to allow certain exotic plants to thrive. A local told me that the lake absorbs heat throughout the summer and then releases it little by little during the cold season.
All around the lake, you can admire the large, beautiful mansions of wealthy Italian families who traditionally spend their holidays there. It’s almost like a competition to see who has the most stunning estate...
The Borromean Islands
The Borromeo family, members of the Lombard nobility, became owners of the archipelago that now bears their name back in the 15th century. Each son inherited an island. Legend has it that one of the sons was disappointed to have received Isola Bella and set out to completely transform it into a jewel.
You might think the name "Isola Bella" (Beautiful Island) comes from the island's beauty, but that’s a mistake! It was actually named in honor of the first heir's wife (Countess Isabella Borromeo), that’s Italian class and romance for you!
From Stresa, I hopped on a boat for an excursion that covers the three main islands.
Step 1: Borromeo Palace on Isola Bella
I’m not usually one for visiting monuments or mansions, but honestly, the tour of the Borromeo Palace on Isola Bella is truly worth it. I was mesmerized by its history, the beauty of the rooms, the paintings, the architecture, the man-made grottos... and the highlight of the show: the magnificent Italian garden! You can easily imagine yourself stepping back in time while looking at the antique furniture, crystal chandeliers, the dining room with its massive table, the ballroom, the parlors, and the armory.
I don't know how they managed to find each other with so many rooms in this palace! I was particularly struck by the bedroom chosen by Napoleon. His bed has been preserved, and the view of the lake from his window is poetic.
A collection of over a hundred paintings is on display in the house. These works are remarkably beautiful. I’m not exactly an art expert, but I truly enjoyed the time I spent admiring them.
After exploring the interior, you can visit the six grottos decorated with seashells and finally the Italian-style garden, where both local and exotic plants (like banana trees) grow.
Step 1 bis: The Botanical Garden of Isola Bella
In the garden, you walk through the Massimo amphitheater, a "room" formed by three levels featuring statues, flowers, and arches.
At the top of the amphitheater, there is a structure resembling the stern of a ship, 37 meters high, from which you can gaze out over the gulf surrounded by mountains. On the left side lies the Giardino dell’Amore (Garden of Love).
It’s hard to describe this garden precisely. It’s better to see the photos below, or in my album, or better yet, admire it with your own eyes if you ever get the chance!
As you can tell, I was absolutely captivated by Isola Bella.
A quick tip: on sunny days, make sure to bring sunscreen. It takes a bit of time to walk around the garden, and it’s very easy to get a little sunburned!
Step 2: Isola dei Pescatori
Isola dei Pescatori, literally the Fishermen's Island, also known as the Upper Island, is the only Borromean island inhabited year-round. It seems it doesn't actually belong to the Borromeo family.
The Fishermen's Island is lovely. A small spit of land jutting into the lake looks like a little beach, and you’re allowed to take a quick dip there, right alongside the swans! I also had my first encounter with an amphibious car there. Seeing it in action was a very surprising experience!
Step 3: Isola Madre
Finally, the boat dropped us off at Isola Madre. We didn't visit the parks on this island because there was a long line, so I can't give you specific details. From what I’ve heard, it’s the least interesting of the three islands on the excursion.
How to get to the Borromean Islands, and at what cost?
Depart from Milan by regional train, heading to the town of Stresa, it takes about an hour.
As for the price, the train ticket is 8.60 euros. Trains depart every 30 minutes.
Be careful on the return trip; there are often issues on the train lines (which happened to us), and hour-long delays are common. But don't worry, it's possible to catch a later train back to Milan.
Once you arrive in Stresa, you can explore the town along the lake and go for a swim, as there are designated beach areas.
Boats to the three islands depart from one of the town's beaches. The price is 15 euros per person to visit all three islands. There is also a 12-euro ticket that only grants access to Isola Bella and Isola dei Pescatori.
To enter the Borromeo Palace on Isola Bella, the price is 15 euros. If you want to visit both Isola Bella and Isola Madre, it will cost you 18 euros.
At the exit of the palace, there is a café and some restaurants where you can grab a bite, but the food there isn't particularly special. You can also buy souvenirs, if you like, but at "tourist" prices, so, quite expensive!
Isola dei Pescatori is free to visit, and the restaurants there serve fish caught directly from the lake.
That’s all I can tell you about these islands!
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