Riomaggiore, the village that stole the sunset from the Cinque Terre
On the rocks of the small harbor, dozens of silhouettes stand out against a sky turning orange. Bottles of Sciacchetrà, the golden wine of the Cinque Terre, are passed from hand to hand. Behind them, tower houses with pink, yellow, and ocher facades seem to cling to the cliffside out of pure stubbornness.
Riomaggiore is the kind of place where you sit on a rock at 5:00 PM to just watch the sun go down and end up chatting with strangers three hours later. The southernmost village of the Cinque Terre is also the first one you discover when arriving from La Spezia, and often the one that leaves the most lasting impression.
Riomaggiore: a love at first sight for hikers and romantics
This village appeals first to those who love to walk. The Cinque Terre are a paradise of coastal trails, and Riomaggiore serves as an ideal starting point to explore them. Couples aren't left out: the famous Via dell'Amore, reopened on February 14, 2025, after twelve years of closure due to a landslide, connects the village to Manarola in a twenty-minute cliffside walk. Photographers, fresh seafood lovers, and travelers who prefer the laid-back vibe of a fishing village over concrete-heavy resorts will feel right at home.
On the other hand, if you are looking for large sandy beaches, keep moving. The only beach here, Fossola, is a tiny pocket of pebbles. Those with limited mobility will also have a hard time. The village is vertical. Steep stairs, sloping alleys, and no elevators to reach most accommodations. It looks charming in photos, but it is exhausting with a 55-pound suitcase.
A village built for pedestrians, not cars
Riomaggiore is almost entirely pedestrian. Forget the car: parking costs about 35 EUR (around $37) per day and spots are scarce. The train remains the king of transport. The village lives to the rhythm of the Cinque Terre Express, which runs roughly every 15 minutes in season. Wi-Fi works in most accommodations, safety is not an issue, and shopkeepers all speak enough English to get by. The pace of life is that of an Italian village: slow in the morning, lively in the evening.
A budget to watch in high season
Riomaggiore is not cheap, especially between June and September. Expect 120 to 200 EUR per night (about $130, $215) for a decent double room in the middle of summer, 40 to 75 EUR (about $43, $80) for a meal for two in a restaurant with a view, and about 20 to 35 EUR (about $21, $37) per person for daily transport if you buy the Cinque Terre Treno Card. Off-season, prices drop by 30 to 50 percent, and the village regains a welcome sense of calm.
The harbor and the main street: the beating heart of the village
Everything starts on Via Colombo, the single artery that runs from the train station down to the harbor. This is where the restaurants, wine bars, craft shops, and stalls selling fresh focaccia are concentrated. The street is narrow and crowded during peak hours, but every facade tells a story. A pottery workshop here, an enoteca where you sip Vermentino at the counter there.
The harbor itself is tiny. A few colorful boats, flat rocks to lie on, and water of an almost surreal blue. It is from these rocks that the sunset truly comes to life. On a clear day, you can see the outline of the Alps on the horizon.
Pro tip: For the sunset, get to the harbor at least 45 minutes early. The best spots on the rocks go fast, especially in July and August. Also, bring your own bottle of local wine bought at a grocery store for 5 to 8 EUR (about $5, $9) rather than paying triple on a terrace.
Hiking and the sea: the call of the open water and the heights
The Via dell'Amore is the star, and for good reason. This 950-meter trail carved into the rock overlooks the Mediterranean and connects Riomaggiore to Manarola without difficulty. Access requires payment: you need a Cinque Terre Card plus a supplement of 10 EUR (about $11) and a timed slot reservation booked online via the official website. The trail is one-way, from Riomaggiore toward Manarola, and welcomes a maximum of 400 people per hour.
For more seasoned hikers, trail 531, known as Via Beccara, offers a free but demanding alternative between the two villages. It involves about 600 steps up and just as many down, with breathtaking views of the terraced vineyards and the coast. Pack good shoes and allow for an hour of hiking.
On the water
Riomaggiore is the best village in the Cinque Terre for water activities. From the harbor, several companies offer kayak trips, small motorboat rentals, or sunset cruises with Prosecco and swimming. The village also houses the only scuba diving center in the national park, perfect for exploring the seafloor of the Ligurian coast.
Pro tip: Sunset boat trips fill up fast. Book at least two days in advance, or head straight to the harbor the morning of your arrival to lock in a spot.
The upper village: castle, churches, and forgotten alleys
Most visitors stick to Via Colombo and the harbor. That is a mistake. The alleys climbing toward the top of the village hold the real surprises. From the post office, take the Scalinata della Valle, a small staircase leading to the heights. The atmosphere changes immediately: fewer people, laundry drying between windows, and cats sleeping on the steps.
The Castello di Riomaggiore, built in the 13th century to protect inhabitants from pirate raids, offers a full panorama of the village and the sea. Admission costs a few euros. Right next door, the Oratory of San Rocco and San Sebastiano, built in the 15th century after a plague epidemic, is worth the detour for its colorful and unexpected interior. Further down, the Church of San Giovanni Battista, founded in 1340, offers a stunning view of the village rooftops from its small square.
For a cocktail break after the climb, the Four Rotta bar, on the way to the castle, is a welcome stop far from the harbor crowds.
Where to eat and drink in Riomaggiore?
The cuisine here is Ligurian to its core. The signature dish remains trofie al pesto, those small twisted pasta noodles served with a pesto of local basil, pine nuts, and Parmesan, often accompanied by green beans and potatoes. The region's basil has a distinct aroma tied to the Ligurian microclimate, and the result is nothing like what you find in a supermarket back home.
From the sea, fresh acciughe (anchovies), whether marinated or fried, are the local specialty. Muscoli ripieni, Ligurian-style stuffed mussels, are also worth the time. For a quick bite, the focaccia sold by the slice at Panificio Rosi on Via Colombo is a treat: golden, soaked in olive oil, and topped with tomatoes or olives. Expect 3 to 5 EUR (about $3, $5) per slice.
For a more elaborate dinner, Rio Bistrot is featured in Michelin Guide recommendations and highlights fish with masterful cooking and a curated wine list. Book a few days in advance for a terrace table. In terms of value, Kepris Pizzeria, tucked away from the tourist flow on Via Telemaco Signorini, serves excellent pizzas for less than 9 EUR (about $10). And for an aperitif, the Vertical Bar on Via Colombo is where the locals meet: good cocktails, music, and the only real nightlife vibe in the village.
Finish your meal with a glass of Sciacchetrà, the dessert wine of the Cinque Terre. This golden and potent wine, at 18 percent alcohol, is produced from grapes left to dry on the terraced vines. It takes ten kilos of grapes to produce just a liter and a half of Sciacchetrà, compared to seven liters for standard wine. The price reflects this: count on 4 to 12 EUR (about $4, $13) per small glass depending on the vintage.
Where to sleep in and around Riomaggiore?
There are almost no classic hotels in Riomaggiore. Accommodations rely on affittacamere, which are Italian-style guesthouses, and vacation apartments. Prices rise quickly in the summer: 150 to 200 EUR (about $160, $215) per night for a decent one-bedroom with a sea view. Among well-located addresses, Locanda Ca Da Iride offers good value in the center, and Affittacamere Crêuza de Mä, with its terraces, hot tub, and spectacular view, positions itself at the high end.
A practical tip: for a tighter budget, base yourself in La Spezia. The hotel supply is much larger and prices are two to three times lower. The train to Riomaggiore takes only 8 minutes. Levanto, on the other side of the Cinque Terre, is a similar alternative with the added bonus of an actual sandy beach.
How to get to and around Riomaggiore?
The train is the only sensible way to travel. From La Spezia Centrale, Riomaggiore is the first stop, 8 minutes away. From the Pisa train station, allow about 1 hour and 30 minutes with a change in La Spezia. From Florence Santa Maria Novella, allow 2 hours and 30 minutes to 3 hours. From Genoa, about 1 hour and 30 minutes with a change in Levanto. A single ticket between villages costs between 5 and 10 EUR (about $5, $11) in high season.
For travelers coming from the US, the most direct option is a flight to Pisa or Genoa, then the regional train. The Pisa train station is 10 minutes from the airport by shuttle.
Once there, the Cinque Terre Treno MS Card gives unlimited access to trains between La Spezia and Levanto, as well as the paid trails of the national park. Its price varies from 19.50 to 32.50 EUR (about $21, $35) depending on the season. Never board a train without validating your ticket at the green machines on the platform: fines are steep.
When to go?
The ideal period stretches from mid-May to late June, then from early September to mid-October. Temperatures are mild, the light is beautiful, and the crowds remain manageable. July and August are hot, very crowded, and expensive. From November to March, many restaurants and accommodations close, but the trails are empty and prices are unbeatable for those who enjoy quiet and don't mind the occasional gloomy weather.
If possible, I recommend taking the Via dell’Amore, a very gentle walk that connects this village to Manarola. You will have a superb view the whole way. Just be careful, it is sometimes closed, so check before planning your itinerary. Otherwise, the train or the boat are still great ways to visit the villages. You really find that very Mediterranean, easygoing lifestyle in these fishing villages all over again.