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Moving to Portugal: An Expat’s Guide to Living and Working Abroad

Translated from French — Read the French original

A young expat shares her story on why and how to move to Portugal to jumpstart your career and embrace a total life change.

Back in the gray, gloomy north of France, I had always envied the sunshine and milder weather of other lands. I was also craving adventure and something new; like many French people, I was tired of the monotonous "commute, work, sleep" grind and wanted to try my luck elsewhere.

As a seasoned globetrotter who loves discovery and cultural immersion, I considered moving to countries outside the European Union, but unfortunately, the task proved incredibly tedious. Why? Beyond the language barrier you might face in some places, the main issue was administrative. While the French passport is one of the most "tourism friendly" in the world and it’s very easy for a French national to travel to many countries without even needing a visa, traveling and expatriation are two very different things.

In the vast majority of countries outside the EU, expats must prove they can support themselves and, in most cases, secure a job. To get a work visa, you generally need to find a job first, and usually, it’s the employer’s responsibility to handle the employee's legal status. However, employers often don't want to deal with that and will ask during interviews if the candidate already has a work permit. It’s a total catch-22!

Monument to the Discoveries in Lisbon

Just as my relocation plans had stalled and I was starting to give up, I stumbled upon a dream offer on a popular job search site... In Portugal!

A job in my field: tourism, which didn't require fluency in Portuguese, just French and English, with a salary higher than the local minimum wage, plus housing and health insurance 100% covered by the company. I applied, and I was hired!

I have absolutely no regrets about moving, and if you think this all sounds too good to be true, keep reading!

The benefits of moving to Portugal

Life, Portuguese-style

Strolling under the palm trees

Portugal is a wonderful place to live. Being a coastal country in southern Europe, it enjoys an extremely mild climate, quite similar to that of the northern Maghreb. In most regions, the heat remains manageable in summer because there is always a cool breeze coming off the Atlantic Ocean.

The Portuguese are incredibly welcoming and smiley people who will quickly make you feel right at home. Furthermore, Portugal is a very safe country. I live in Lisbon, the capital, where there is generally no theft or street harassment, and violent crime is very rare. As a woman, I can comfortably walk alone wherever I want, day or night, without ever feeling worried.

Beyond the capital, the country is home to magnificent cities, each unique: Sintra, Porto, Santarém, and Faro on the Mediterranean coast... There’s something for everyone, and the Portuguese architecture, with its colorful houses and mosaic walls, is truly beautiful.

The Portuguese lifestyle is genuinely relaxed. The country isn't overpopulated, so you don't feel like you're living on top of one another. Even life in Lisbon is less stressful than in most major French cities. Plus, the cost of living is low, and the food is fantastic!

In short, Portugal has everything to win you over!

Portugal: A welcoming melting pot for expats

Commerce Square in Lisbon

Lisbon is a very cosmopolitan city where you’ll meet expats from all over the world, including a very large French-speaking community. For example, there are four of us in my shared apartment: I live with a French person, a Ukrainian, and a Palestinian, yes, it’s almost like the movie "The Spanish Apartment"! It’s a lovely mix of cultures that surprises us and teaches us something new every day.

Why are there so many foreigners in Portugal?

Let me explain why Portugal is so cosmopolitan and how you can settle here.

First, Portugal is part of the European Union, so all EU citizens can move there without much difficulty. That’s 27 nations, which is no small thing.

Additionally, Portugal isn't restrictive when it comes to immigration; in fact, most expats are wealthier than the average Portuguese person and bring financial value to the country. You’ll also notice a large Black population, particularly in Lisbon. These individuals are generally from Angola, a Portuguese-speaking former colony. Black people face significantly less discrimination here than in France and are much better integrated.

In short... Portugal is a nation where foreigners are welcomed and integration isn't an issue. Could it be a future land of opportunity for you?

A financially advantageous country

It’s worth noting that the standard of living in Portugal is quite low compared to most other European countries. To give you an idea, the cost of living is 31% lower than in France, not bad, right? This means this Portuguese-speaking country is financially attractive and accessible for most French and European people. For comparison, it’s quite possible to find a studio in Lisbon for 400 or 500 euros a month, whereas in Paris or London, rents can reach 1000 euros for a 20-square-meter space.

It’s very important to note that many French expats are retirees. Budget is often one of the top reasons for their move. Since retirement pensions are relatively low in France, many retirees aren't satisfied with their quality of life there. Retirement, however, guarantees a secure and fixed income, which allows for a better quality of life in Portugal. The icing on the cake? The French in Portugal are entitled to the RNH (Non-Habitual Resident status). In common parlance, this is known as a tax exemption, essentially, no taxes. The French and other foreigners contribute a lot to the Portuguese state. Because they have higher incomes, they consume more and, in a way, keep the economy moving. The local government decided it was more beneficial to forgo income taxes to attract "new consumers." This is also why there are many French self-employed entrepreneurs. That said, the RNH is evolving. For retirees moving in 2020 and beyond, there is now a 10% income tax.

Linguistic accessibility

Another very important point, which I hope will help monolingual speakers take the leap: linguistic accessibility. Many Portuguese people speak French, and you can always find a French speaker in any situation (administrative, medical, dining...). And this trend should continue! As this destination welcomes a large number of French tourists and retirees who don't speak any other language, mastering the language of Molière is becoming a professional asset for the local workforce. In short, everyone wins.

You should also know that France has received several waves of Portuguese migration. Portuguese people are perfectly integrated in France and speak the language well, so immigration flows both ways.

Finally, if you took Spanish as a second language in school like I did, even if your level was weak, you will easily understand written Portuguese. The vocabulary, verbs, and endings are very similar between the two languages. Portuguese pronunciation is a bit trickier, but taking a few classes and hanging out with locals will help you overcome that small hurdle very easily.

Administrative procedures

Finding a job in the land of the Portuguese

If you speak French and English, and have some experience in tourism, retail, customer service, or real estate, you have a great chance of finding a job in Portugal. Generally speaking, the French and foreigners are quite appreciated in the job market.

Indeed, Glassdoor, and plenty of other sites are full of listings for this country, which hasn't been hit too hard by the employment crisis. On the famous French expat Facebook groups, offers are posted regularly; you can upload your resume or respond to existing ads.

Teleperformance, a specialist in remote and phone-based customer service, is a company that hires a huge number of people. I can recommend this option if you are coming alone. However, if you are moving as a family or a couple, this might not be the best choice, as you won't be able to enjoy all the benefits (especially flexible hours).

On job search websites, if you don't speak Portuguese, simply enter the language you speak and your field of activity in the search fields, there's a good chance you'll find something. Just make sure you are administratively compliant.

The NIF and CRUE: The essentials!

Be careful! Even if moving to Portugal is relatively simple, you need to take your time and think carefully before embarking on this adventure. I highly recommend getting some help, especially if you plan to buy or even rent a property; the best thing to do is hire a real estate agency. Find a person or agency that can help you manage the paperwork for your housing and your residence card (yes, it’s very beneficial and not that complicated if you are guided and know how it works).

The Portuguese administration has a bad reputation, which isn't entirely unjustified. Obtaining a NIF (Número de Identificação Fiscal) is vital when living in Portugal. Without this NIF, it’s sometimes difficult to rent or buy, open a bank account, or access certain public services... In short, you’ll miss out on a lot. You can get a NIF by going to the nearest Finanças office, which is the equivalent of our public finance centers in France. To do this, you generally just need to prove your French nationality with a passport and provide your address in France. A bank statement also works well. Then comes the most complicated part: the Finanças office and, above all, the wait! Be sure to check the hours before you go, as they vary depending on the location and the time of year. The best advice I can give you is to show up at the Finanças office almost 20 minutes before it opens so you only have a 15-minute wait, yes, the NIF is in high demand!

And it doesn't end there! Having a NIF isn't enough to settle in Portugal; that’s just the first step. The second key is the CRUE (Certificado do Registo de Cidadão da União Europeia). If you don't have it, you will be required to leave the country after 3 months. Not completing this administrative step puts you at risk of being deported and having to pay a hefty fine. To get your CRUE, go to the town hall of your new city of residence. You will first need to request a form to state the reason for your application, then provide the requested documents: a sworn statement saying you can support yourself and your family and that you can take out health insurance, and a recent proof of address (bill, rental contract). For retirees, the process stops there, but for students and workers, you will need to provide a sworn statement stating that you are attending a school or that you are employed or self-employed on Portuguese soil. This procedure costs the modest sum of 16 euros.

Once you have successfully obtained your NIF and CRUE, you can still apply for a residence card, but you can absolutely stop there.

For workers and students, it is easier to obtain a NIF and CRUE since, in the majority of cases, companies and universities handle it for you.

Health and the Portuguese healthcare system

Portugal enjoys a good healthcare system. Like in France, it is divided into two sectors: private and public.

The private sector is excellent but very expensive; the public sector is also very good, but the issue is the endless waiting times. If you have surgeries to schedule, I highly recommend making appointments in France. The Portuguese healthcare system remains very efficient, though. To get the best possible local care, it is highly recommended to obtain a permanent residence card. Otherwise, you absolutely must take out personal health insurance with maximum coverage for medical expenses, as well as a European Health Insurance Card. The European health card is obtained very easily and quickly. Just visit the French government website. As for health insurance, the price ranges from 45 euros to several hundred euros per month, depending on your age, any potential medical conditions, and the level of coverage requested. You won't have any trouble finding health insurance; many groups we already have in France offer it, such as Groupama.

Portugal: Yes, but where and with whom?

Which city should you choose in the land of Vasco da Gama?

Panorama of Lisbon

That depends on many personal factors. First, your budget. Even though Portugal is an inexpensive country, to be transparent, Lisbon remains much more expensive than small provincial villages or the outskirts.

You also need to consider your lifestyle and desires: do you prefer the city or the countryside? Are you more of a beach or mountain person? Do you have a car? Do you need to return to France regularly?

Answering all these questions will help you pinpoint where you’ll be happiest. It can also be a good idea to visit Portugal several times to explore different cities before settling down.

I'm afraid of feeling lonely during my expatriation

Some expats dread social isolation and failing to integrate. The best thing to do is take a few Portuguese lessons before you arrive so you can say a few words, express simple things, and understand the basics of the language; after that, learning Portuguese will happen on its own.

The Portuguese are very welcoming people who enjoy communicating with foreigners. If you reach out to them, they will talk to you warmly without any issues. What better way to learn the language and discover the culture?

If you get homesick and want to get in touch with French people, or if you want information about expat life, I highly recommend joining French Facebook groups. They are very easy to find, just type keywords like "French" and "Porto" into the app's search bar. It makes meeting people very easy, and you can ask all your questions directly in the group. You can also find rentals or work through these groups, as ads are posted quite regularly. I use these types of Facebook groups a lot; they help me immensely!

In conclusion

To conclude, Portugal is a great destination for French expats. It is financially accessible, the French are very well received, and the language barrier is almost non-existent. Furthermore, the country enjoys plenty of sunshine all year round and a very mild climate. The large French community, which is very supportive, will be able to guide and accompany you on your path to expatriation.

However, you must take your time and be rigorous with administrative procedures to have the best possible experience.

Portugal is truly an excellent country to live, work, and retire! Tchau!

Comments (1)

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  • Petite-Terre
    Petite-Terre
    Je suis absolument d'accord sur tout ce qui est écrit sauf pour l'intégration des populations noires d'Angola, Moçambique ou Brasil. Il y a réel problème de racisme, il est juste plus sournois qu'en France. Après c'est plus le cas au nord du pays (Porto ou Braga) que Lisboa

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