To anyone thinking about heading to Romania, I say: go for it!! I spent a full three-day weekend in Romania, specifically in Bucharest. And let me tell you, the energy there is incredible!
It’s a rich, cosmopolitan city where you’ll find something to enjoy, whether you’re a history buff, an aspiring jet-setter, or just a tourist looking for an affordable city-break adventure.
Long nicknamed the "Paris of the East" (due to its architecture, especially its famous "Champs-Élysées") or "Little Paris" (because of the large number of French people who moved there between the two World Wars), the Romanian capital is just waiting to be explored.
How to get to Bucharest
You can, of course, drive there (it’s a long haul, count on at least 2 days of driving each way), take the train (also long), hop on a bus (cheap... but long), or fly. For that last option, you can find some really inexpensive flights (starting at €50), especially with Wizzair, the Hungarian low-cost airline.
There are flights available with other airlines, of course: you can check out carriers like Lufthansa, KLM, Air France, Blue Air, or Malev. Just know that Wizzair very often offers the best rates across different periods (I know this because I spent all my time comparing them... though that may have changed since then). The easiest way is to use a flight comparison tool.
The flight duration is, on average, two hours and fifty minutes. For those flying Wizzair, everything costs extra: if you want a simple Lipton tea, expect to pay four euros, for example... Don't even get me started on the price of snacks. Come on, two hours isn't that long!!
As for the time difference, it’s minimal, as Bucharest is only one hour ahead of Paris.
Bucharest’s airport (Henri Coandă International Airport) is located about fifteen kilometers north of the Romanian capital. Transport from Henri Coandă Airport to Union Square (the city center) is available via the 783 express bus line for 5 lei, which covers a round trip (two journeys). Otherwise, you can take a taxi, but it will be more expensive.
Double-check your tickets, though, because some low-cost airlines land at the other international airport, the one named Aurel Vlaicu.
Getting around
You can certainly rent a car to visit the city, but frankly, it’s not worth the hassle, especially since I assume you’ll have already booked a room in a hotel or guesthouse and won’t have too far to travel. Bucharest has an enormous public transport network.
The only minor downside: the stations were laid out according to Ceausescu’s vision, which still heavily favored cars. As a result, you sometimes won't find a direct connection without walking a bit. This is especially true when arriving from the airport; if you don't want to struggle, plan on taking the bus (see above) or a taxi to get into town.
Speaking of which, taxi rates vary from one company to another. You have to check the doors where the rate in lei/km is indicated. Otherwise, as I mentioned just above, take the 783 express line (RATB counters are in the airport). Once you're in, it's easy to get around using the metro, buses, trolleybuses, and trams.
For tickets or passes (there are options for 5 or 7 days, for example), you’ll need to inquire at the RATB counters. There are also combined RATB and Metrorex passes to bridge the gap between surface transport and the underground.
For your info, a metro ticket for 2 journeys = 2.2 lei.
Money
The currency is the leu (plural lei). Currently, €1 = 4.7 lei (you can track the exchange rate on the Romania guide). You can exchange money in the city, but if you do, stick to banks, not exchange bureaus, which charge exorbitant fees! Also, be aware that the vast majority of merchants won't have any trouble accepting your euros.
Accommodation
You have the choice between hotels or "pensions." The price differences can be significant, mainly because the services are very different. In pensions, you share the kitchen area, with a communal fridge where you keep your things. No one will steal them; at worst, they might be used, but they’ll be replaced for you by the next day.
In "classic" hotels, the usual amenities are provided, and prices remain affordable.
Here is a starting point for finding your accommodation in Bucharest.
What to eat
You’ll find places to eat everywhere, and it’s very cheap if you get takeout. For those feeling homesick, French gastronomy is represented, but more importantly, traditional cuisine is present in the vast majority of restaurants, provided you don't choose one of the fast-food chains that have popped up everywhere.
In terms of traditional cuisine, there are a few must-tries: stuffed cabbage ("sarmale"), soups, tripe soup with garlic cream (for the brave... but it’s good!), small fatty sausages (mititei), and mamaliga, a type of polenta served with cheese. I have to admit it’s sometimes a bit heavy and not always easy to digest, but overall, it’s really tasty. So, "pofta buna" (bon appétit), and for those trying the artisanal spirits: "noroc" (cheers)!
What to do and see
To get a good idea of what’s worth seeing, take a look at this ranking of Bucharest’s points of interest.
The first thing to do, I think, is head to the center, the Old Town (especially Lipscani Street). It might feel a bit strange at first: you might think you’ve returned to Paris because some of the small streets are so reminiscent of those in the French capital. But when you walk a bit further and stumble, by chance and around a small cobblestone alley, upon an Orthodox church, you realize you are far from France after all. You realize today that the people of Bucharest are taking care of this past, despite the destruction linked to history or, more sadly, years of corruption in the real estate sector.
A stroll through old Bucharest can be done via Gabroveni, Blanari, Selari, Franceza, and Stavropoleos streets. Beyond the visual pleasure, you can also satisfy any kind of hunger: big or small, traditional Romanian, French, Italian, and more.
There are several museums, but I only visited one: the Village Museum located near Herastrau Lake, which is itself in the park of the same name, offering a moment of rustic and bucolic relaxation. You can see all types of traditional housing there. To be perfectly honest, this museum didn’t leave an indelible memory on me. Actually, I still don't really know why I decided to visit it...
Otherwise, regarding the rest of the architecture, there are several things to see. For starters, the Palace of the Parliament is worth a look. It’s truly a building of superlatives, its dimensions are so impressive. Made famous during the era of the dictator Ceausescu, it now houses the Romanian Parliament and Senate.
Casa Capsa (named after the owning family) is also worth a detour. Originally dedicated to confectionery, the place became a luxury hotel and is now known around the world for its café, pastries, and treats. Battered by the communist period, the building has undergone several quality restorations that allowed it to get a second wind and reopen its doors in 2003. This place, especially its café for those who, like me, can’t afford a room, has long been prized by the Bucharest intelligentsia. Today, it’s an unmissable spot for tourists.
You should also go see the Romanian Athenaeum, named after the Romanian society founded in the early 19th century to develop cultural and scientific knowledge. It can be visited, but check the hours: philharmonic concerts are regularly held there.
During your travels, other surprises await, especially in the squares. For example, the House of Architects on Revolution Square, or even the Arc de Triomphe...
Going out and partying
Going out in Bucharest is easy, and when you’re young, it’s the national sport! A place not to be missed if you want to move and party is the shores of Herastrau Lake, in the park of the same name. The bars and restaurants there are very nice, and I was lucky enough to participate in a small impromptu party near the Skate park where, clearly, some students were starting an evening that promised to be loud and lively!! Cherry brandy hidden in juice bottles was flowing freely...
Some French people hang out at a very trendy club located near the lake: Fratelli (address: Str. Glodeni nr. 1-3, Sector 2), Pipera metro station. If you want to have fun, you absolutely must go there. The dress code is the same as for all "hype" clubs in France and abroad. Save the link to their site right away; you can plan your evenings based on their schedule and get an idea of the place.
For other good addresses and trendy nights out, the French people I met there advised me to buy the newspaper "7 seri", the equivalent of Pariscope, where you can find information on parties, events, etc. In short, it’s the official guide to going out that you’ll find for sale almost everywhere. However, you’ll need to get it translated.
The Old Town is also very lively at night because you can find some of the most popular clubs and restaurants in the capital: "Hanul cu Tei", "Carul cu Bere", "Fire Club", "Club A", "Twice", "Backstage", "Expirat", or "Amsterdam". Everyone should find something they like!
Much quieter, especially if you want to eat in a serene setting, head to the city center and try your luck (it’s better to book) at Manuc’s Inn ("Hanul lui Manuc"). This superb traditional building is actually a former 19th-century caravanserai where a renowned restaurant has opened. Just know that dinner will cost you more than in other places in the city. From memory, I think I paid around fifty euros per person, including wine. It’s located on Strada Francesa, or French Street. Without being chauvinistic, that’s a sign of destiny, right?
As for the rest of the nightlife, the French and Romanian students I met and befriended told me there were also some wilder parties, a bit in the same vein as those that take place in Cancun, Mexico (the American students' spring break). Students leave in convoys of cars or buses toward the shores of the Black Sea. There, on the beaches, the nights are punctuated by music but also alcohol, drugs, and sex. It’s not just students, by the way, as the "golden youth" of the capital also likes to take trips there. Clearly, this displeases the authorities, who sometimes go down there to conduct real raids. It must be said that, according to those I spoke with, the beaches have been the site of tragedies (violence, sexual assault, etc., not to mention environmental damage or alcohol poisoning). So, you’ve been warned!
In conclusion
To conclude on Bucharest, I must say that the city seemed very lively and animated to me. If you’re also lucky enough to have the sun with you, the little corners (or big ones, especially the numerous parks) of greenery that you’ll discover during your wanderings are always very pleasant surprises. For the rest, the city is truly beautiful and old Bucharest is typical and full of charm. As for the entertainment, I find the city resembles all trendy European capitals: you can always easily find something to eat, have a drink, and go out to party.
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