Visiting Campania
Campania makes sense around a bay and a volcano. At the back of the bay sits Naples: loud, generous, the city of pizza. At the foot of Vesuvius, Pompeii and Herculaneum, frozen in the year 79. Across the water, the Sorrento peninsula runs on towards the Amalfi Coast, its villages clinging to the cliffs, and towards the islands: Capri, Ischia, Procida.
This is Italy at its most concentrated: in a single week you go from an ancient site to a cove, from a Neapolitan back street to a garden in Ravello.
You'll love it if
- Ancient history, the sea and good food matter equally to you
- You enjoy the noise and energy of a big southern city
- You like walking: clifftop paths, steps, narrow lanes
Look elsewhere if
- You want long, free sandy beaches
- Summer crowds at famous sites wear you down
- You plan to drive along the Amalfi Coast
The must-sees
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1 The Path of the Gods Amalfi Coast
From Bomerano, above Agerola, to Nocelle and then Positano: a path that runs along the cliff several hundred metres above the sea. Allow three to five hours, almost all of it downhill. It isn't difficult, but it's not for anyone with a fear of heights. Set off early, carry water, and finish on the beach at Positano.
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2 The crater of Vesuvius Tickets online +9 recs
A shuttle drops you on the side of the volcano, then a path of four kilometres there and back climbs to the rim of the crater, at 1,175 metres, among the fumaroles. The view takes in the whole bay. Tickets are sold online only, in time slots, under your name: book before you come.
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3 The Veiled Christ at Sansevero Naples
In a small chapel in the historic centre of Naples, a marble figure of the dead Christ seems covered by a veil so fine you'd swear it was breathing. Entry is limited and booked online, up to sixty days ahead. The chapel is closed on Tuesdays. Allow half an hour, then lose yourself in the lanes nearby.
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4 The temples of Paestum Cilento
South of Salerno, three Greek temples stand in a field, among the best preserved in the Greek world. The ticket also covers the museum and the site of Velia, and stays valid for three days. Come in the late afternoon, when the golden stone catches the light, and save the region's buffalo mozzarella for the evening.
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5 The Ravello Festival July to September
Every summer, concerts are held on a terrace suspended above the sea, in the gardens of Villa Rufolo. In 2026, the festival ran from 4 July to 5 September. Book early, and arrive before sunset to watch the coast fade into darkness to the sound of the music.
Our itineraries in Campania
| Length | Itinerary | What you see |
|---|---|---|
| Long weekend | Naples › Pompeii › Vesuvius | City, antiquity, volcano |
| 1 week | Naples › Pompeii › Sorrento › Amalfi Coast › Capri | The essentials of the bay |
| 10 days | Naples › Ischia or Procida › Sorrento › Amalfi › Paestum | Islands, coast, Greek temples |
Start in Naples, where the trains leave for Pompeii and the boats for the islands. Then head down to Sorrento and the Amalfi Coast, and finish at Paestum if you're leaving from Salerno. Keep half a day in hand for the boats: in winter or in rough seas, some crossings stop running.
When to visit Campania
| Rating | Season | Weather | Crowds and prices |
|---|---|---|---|
| SpringApril to June | Mild, sea still cool | Medium | |
| SummerJuly and Aug. | Hot, above 30 °C | High | |
| Late summerSept. and Oct. | Sea still warm | Medium | |
| WinterNov. to March | Mild in Naples, the coast asleep | Low |
Our advice
Aim for May, June or September: you can swim, and Pompeii can be visited without wilting under the midday sun. In winter, Naples is still a very good destination, but many hotels on the coast and the islands close, and boats become scarce.
Getting to Campania
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By air to Naples The simplest
Naples airport has direct flights from London and from many cities across Europe, with more routes in summer. From North America, you fly in through a European hub or land in Rome and continue by train. The Alibus shuttle links the airport with the central station and the port in half an hour.
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By train via Rome Without flying
From Rome, a high-speed train reaches Naples in just over an hour. Coming from further north in Europe, you connect in Milan or Rome, and the whole journey can be done by rail.
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By boat, once you're there For the islands
From the port of Naples, hydrofoils reach Capri in under an hour, Ischia and Procida in about an hour. Others leave from Sorrento and, in summer, from the Amalfi Coast.
On Capri, a landing tax of 5 € is added to the ticket from April to October. In winter, there are fewer boats and some routes stop: check that week's timetables before building your plans.
Getting around Campania
The Circumvesuviana railway links Naples with Herculaneum, Pompeii and Sorrento in just over an hour, for 5 €. On the Amalfi Coast, buses and boats shuttle between the villages. A car brings you nothing here: the coast road is narrow and jammed in summer, and parking is scarce and expensive.
Good to know
The Campania Express tourist train, which linked Naples with Pompeii and Sorrento, has been suspended since 1 October 2026. Take the ordinary Circumvesuviana, and keep an eye on your belongings at rush hour: the carriages are often packed.
What to eat in Campania
- Neapolitan pizza: a thick, soft rim, baked in a minute in a wood-fired oven. The art of its pizzaioli is on UNESCO's heritage list. A margherita costs 6 to 9 €.
- Mozzarella di bufala: made that day from buffalo milk, around Caserta and Paestum. Eat it plain, at room temperature.
- Sfogliatella: a shell-shaped pastry of crisp layers, filled with ricotta scented with citrus, best eaten warm in the morning.
- Babà: a light, yeasted cake soaked in rum syrup, sold in every pastry shop in Naples.
- Colatura di alici from Cetara: an amber liquid from fermented anchovies, drizzled over spaghetti. A village on the Amalfi Coast has made it its speciality.
- Limoncello: the liqueur made from the lemons of the Amalfi Coast and Sorrento, served ice-cold at the end of a meal.
In Naples, drink your coffee standing at the counter, for less than a euro, and order pizza in a neighbourhood pizzeria rather than on the big squares. On the coast, tables with a view come at a price: walk one level higher up the village and prices drop.
Where to stay in Campania
| Area | What it's for | Good to know |
|---|---|---|
| Naples | City, museums, boats to the islands | Noisy, the cheapest |
| Sorrento | Pompeii, Capri, Amalfi Coast | The most practical base |
| Amalfi Coast | Villages, paths, views | Expensive, lots of steps |
| Capri | Blue Grotto, gardens, quiet evenings | Very expensive, packed by day |
| Ischia and Procida | Thermal baths, beaches, colourful villages | Quieter and more affordable |
| Cilento | Paestum, beaches, national park | Far from the bay, a car helps |
How much does a trip in Campania cost?
| Trip | Length | Budget per person |
|---|---|---|
| Budget (B&B in Naples, trains, pizzerias) | 7 days | 450 to 700 € |
| Comfort (hotel in Sorrento, boats, restaurants) | 7 days | 1,000 to 1,600 € |
| Luxury (hotel with a coast view, private boat) | 7 days | 2,800 to 5,000 € |
- Your base: you sleep for much less in Naples than on the Amalfi Coast or Capri, for the same category of hotel.
- The sites: Pompeii costs 20 €, Herculaneum 13 €, Vesuvius 10 €; the Campania Artecard bundles entry tickets and transport.
- The boats: allow 17 to 25 € one way to the islands, plus the 5 € tax on Capri.
- Tourist tax: in Naples, 5 to 6 € per person per night depending on where you stay.
- The beach: beach clubs rent umbrellas and loungers by the day, and they take up much of the shoreline.
Traditions and way of life in Campania
Naples lives to the rhythm of its patron saint, San Gennaro. Three times a year, in May, on 19 September and on 16 December, the city waits in the cathedral for the saint's blood to liquefy, a sign of good fortune. Football is the other religion: Maradona has murals and shrines here.
Calmer, Procida was the first island named Italian Capital of Culture, in 2022, with its pastel houses packed around the harbour of Corricella.
Local etiquette
Go into churches with your shoulders and knees covered: in Pompeii, at the sanctuary in the modern town, shawls are lent at the entrance. In a café, pay at the till first, then hand your receipt over at the counter.