Capri at a glance
You have likely heard the name Capri before. While the island has long been a magnet for celebrities and travelers, its enduring appeal comes down to its dramatic topography and a laid-back lifestyle that is hard to replicate. Think of it as the Mediterranean answer to a posh cliffside retreat in Big Sur, but with a distinctly Italian soul.
The legend of Capri
The island's mythic status grew throughout the 20th century as a parade of intellectuals and icons made it their playground. Cocteau, Picasso, Gide, Brigitte Bardot, and Godard, who filmed his classic Contempt here, all helped cement its reputation. The jet set soon followed, turning the island into a global destination.
Today, the island is a high-profile spot that draws everyone from international celebrities to weekenders from the mainland. You get a sense of the scale as soon as you approach by boat. The island is essentially a massive, craggy rock measuring roughly 4 miles by 2 miles, covered in a lush mix of pine trees, strawberry trees, and vineyards. The view over the water is constant, with the sea shifting through every shade of blue as the sun moves across the sky.
It is true that Capri caters to an affluent crowd, and Capri-Ville (Capri Town) often feels like the Italian version of the Hamptons. However, the island remains a natural escape for hikers and history buffs. Do not miss the Villa Jovis, a palace built by Emperor Tiberius in the 1st century AD, or the Villa San Michele, which sits on the site of an old chapel dedicated to Saint Michael.
Caves, viewpoints, and local dining
The Blue Grotto (Grotta Azzurra) is the island's most famous landmark. Discovered by a writer in 1826, the cave is known for the way light reflects off the water to turn the walls a deep cobalt blue. The nearby white and green grottoes are also worth a look. For those who prefer being on foot, the island is crisscrossed with well-marked trails. The Arco Naturale is the most popular route, offering a spectacular vantage point from the island's heights. After a long trek, the beaches are the logical next stop.
If you prefer to move at a slower pace, there are plenty of spas and wellness centers for a recharge. For a different vibe, head away from the main town to the narrow streets of Anacapri. The historic center here is filled with colorful houses, bars, and restaurants specializing in regional Neapolitan cuisine. You will find wood-fired pizzas, lasagna, cannelloni, rockfish, cod, and glasses of chilled limoncello to end the meal. Nearby islands like Ischia and Procida are also worth a day trip.
When to go
Capri is accessible year-round thanks to its mild Mediterranean climate. That said, aim for the shoulder season between April and early October to get the most out of the island. Be aware that July and August are peak months, and the island gets very crowded.
How to get there
You can reach the island easily by a ferry from Naples, which takes about an hour, or by a hydrofoil from Sorrento, which takes roughly 20 minutes. There are also connections from Amalfi, Salerno, and Positano. Some operators even run longer routes from Sardinia, Spain, Corsica, and Tunisia.
Less touristy than its neighbor Naples, Capri and its surroundings match the image I had of southern Italy, Mediterranean, with its sounds, its colors, its smells, and its wilder nature.