Visiting Ercolano
While Pompeii draws the overwhelming majority of visitors around the Bay of Naples, skipping its neighbor Ercolano (Herculaneum) is a mistake. It houses remarkably preserved ruins that easily justify a full day of exploration.
A small Italian town that draws visitors
Ercolano is a town located in the southeastern suburbs of Naples, in the Campania region. Sitting at the foot of Mount Vesuvius, it serves as a practical base for exploring the area. It was once called Resina, but was renamed Ercolano in 1969 to reflect the ancient city ruins within its borders. Outside of the archaeological site, the town itself is fairly standard. However, the main street, Via Veneto, is a pleasant spot for a walk or some window shopping. Stop into one of the local pasticcerias (pastry shops) to try a regional specialty. The sfogliatella, a traditional pastry filled with ricotta cream, is a standout when paired with a hot drink.
Herculaneum, the little Pompeii
The real draw of Ercolano is its ancient city of Herculaneum, destroyed by the eruption of Vesuvius in 79 AD. In antiquity, it was a seaside town primarily occupied by the villas of wealthy Campanian residents. It is less famous than its neighbor Pompeii because it is significantly smaller. However, Herculaneum is better preserved because it was not buried in ash and pumice, but rather entombed under a thick layer of volcanic mud and lava until its rediscovery in the 18th century. Most of the buildings therefore resisted both the disaster and the passage of time.
Ercolano is striking at first glance, as the ruins sit in a depression twenty meters below the modern street level. The entrance to the archaeological site leads to a walkway that descends toward the buildings. From villas with walls adorned in decorative friezes to shops, Roman baths, and public structures, walking the streets of the ancient city makes it easy to visualize the residents going about their daily lives, unaware of the impending tragedy. Plan on about 2 hours for a full visit. To learn more and view the artifacts recovered during excavations, visit the National Archaeological Museum of Naples.
When to go
You can visit Ercolano year-round because the archaeological site remains open in every season. It never sees the intense tourist crowds found at Pompeii, but if you prioritize quiet, choose spring or autumn over the summer months.
How to get there
Ercolano is located very close to Naples, just a 15-minute drive via the A3 highway. If you do not have a rental car, take the train to the Ercolano Scavi station (a 20-minute trip). To reach Naples, you will find numerous flights from major US hubs with a connection in a larger European city. Note that Rome is also within reach, located about 2 hours and 15 minutes away by car.
I made a stop in Herculaneum while heading back to Naples in the morning from Pompeii. I had bought the €20 ticket in Pompeii that gives access to 5 sites, and this one is the second main one. It is definitely not as big, but it has some interesting and different buildings, and it was less crowded too. It might not be a must-see, but I recommend it if time allows!