Bath, Where the Romans Once Soaked
It is 8:00 AM, and the first wisps of steam rise from the thermal springs. In this city in southwest England, water has bubbled underground for millennia. One million liters of hot water rise to the surface every day at 46°C.
The Celts already worshiped these springs, dedicating them to the goddess Sulis. The pragmatic Romans built a grandiose thermal complex around them around AD 70. The city itself bears the most obvious name possible for an English spa town.
Bath: Almost Guaranteed to Win You Over
If you are looking for a manageable getaway from London featuring elegant architecture and a genuine sense of history, Bath checks every box. The entire city is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, a rare distinction for a British municipality. You can easily explore on foot, spotting honey-colored Georgian facades around every corner, and the atmosphere balances effortless living with understated refinement.
This destination appeals to history buffs, fans of Jane Austen (who lived here for five years), and followers of the series Bridgerton, which filmed several scenes in the local streets. Couples seeking romance and families will also find plenty to enjoy. On the other hand, if you want a pulsing nightlife scene or beaches, look elsewhere. Bath is a contemplative city, not a party destination.
A Comfortable Budget Without Being Unreasonable
Plan for between £100 and £150 per day for two people, covering decent lodging, meals, and one main activity. Admission to the Roman Baths costs around £20 on weekdays, and a two-hour session at the modern Thermae Bath Spa ranges from £42 to £48. Pubs make it easy to eat well for £15-20 per person.
The Historic Heart: Between Roman Ruins and Georgian Elegance
Downtown centers around Bath Abbey and the Roman Baths. These ancient baths represent the best-preserved Roman remains in the United Kingdom. The visit includes an audio guide and allows you to discover the various pools, the temple dedicated to Sulis Minerva, and numerous artifacts recovered during excavations. Plan for at least two hours on site.
Right next door, the Pump Room served as a gathering place for Georgian high society. Visitors used to drink the mineral water, which was believed to cure all ailments. You can still taste this iron-rich mineral water today. The tearoom also serves afternoon tea in a lavish setting accompanied by live music.
Friendly tip: arrive at the Roman Baths right when they open at 9:00 AM to beat the crowds. In the summer, evening openings let you tour the torchlit site, offering an unmatched atmosphere.
The Georgian Arc: From the Circus to the Royal Crescent
Head uphill to discover 18th-century architectural masterpieces. The Circus is a perfect circle of terraced houses inspired by the Colosseum in Rome. John Wood the Elder designed this striking complex, which his son completed. The three concentric facades create a dramatic theatrical effect.
A short walk away, the Royal Crescent displays its majestic curve of thirty Georgian townhouses facing a vast lawn. The Bath stone facade, a local golden limestone, catches different lights throughout the day. You can tour No. 1 Royal Crescent to see a reconstruction of daily life for a wealthy family of that era. Adjacent Victoria Park offers a pleasant green space for a break.
The Banks of the Avon and the Artisan Quarter
Pulteney Bridge has spanned the River Avon since 1774. Its architecture draws inspiration from the Ponte Vecchio in Florence, with shops still occupying both sides. Many visitors do not even realize they are crossing a bridge because the storefronts capture so much attention. Walk down to the water's edge to admire the horseshoe weir and snap the quintessential Bath postcard photo.
The Walcot Street neighborhood, known as the artisan quarter, brings together antique dealers, independent boutiques, and trendy cafes. On Saturday mornings, the flea and antique market at Green Park Station draws bargain hunters and the curious under the vaults of the former Victorian railway station. Look for the carved stone grotesque faces along The Paragon, featuring a series of mythological figures and local characters.
Friendly tip: the Beazer Garden Maze hides just below Pulteney Bridge. This Italian mosaic labyrinth tells the story of Bath through 92,000 marble pieces. Few visitors stop here.
Taking the Waters in the 21st Century
You can tour the Roman Baths, but you cannot swim in them. To enjoy the hot springs, head to the Thermae Bath Spa, the United Kingdom's only natural thermal spa. The rooftop pool offers panoramic views over the rooftops of Bath, steam included. The basic two-hour session includes access to the Minerva bath, aromatic steam rooms, and the famous open-air pool.
The water springs out at 45°C and cools to an ideal temperature of 33 to 35°C. In cold or rainy weather, the contrast between the crisp air and the hot water creates an almost surreal atmosphere. Book ahead for the weekend. The more intimate Cross Bath offers private sessions in a historic pool located on a sacred Celtic site.
Where to Eat and Drink in Bath
The local culinary scene has evolved considerably in recent years. The Olive Tree, the city's only Michelin-starred restaurant, offers refined contemporary British cuisine. For a unique experience, Menu Gordon Jones serves a surprise tasting menu where the chef calls all the shots. Booking several weeks in advance is mandatory.
For classics, do not miss the Sally Lunn Bun at Sally Lunn's, one of Bath's oldest houses, dating back to 1482. This local brioche bun is served sweet or savory. The Scallop Shell treats seafood lovers to ultra-fresh catches. Vegetarians can head straight to OAK, a plant-based restaurant housed in one of the city's oldest buildings. The Green Park Brasserie, located in the former railway station, hosts free live jazz four nights a week.
How to Get to and Around Bath
From London Paddington, Great Western Railway trains reach Bath Spa in about 1 hour and 30 minutes. Tickets purchased in advance start around £20. The station sits a ten-minute walk from the center. Driving from the capital takes about 2 hours and 30 minutes via the M4 and then the A46. Downtown parking is paid and limited. Three Park & Ride lots on the outskirts offer an economical alternative.
Bristol Airport is located 30 km away. The Air Decker shuttle bus connects the airport to Bath in 45 minutes for about £14. From Paris, taking Eurostar to London followed by the train to Bath is the most practical option, with a total travel time of about 4 hours and 30 minutes. Once you arrive, everything is walkable. Bath is a hilly city, so pack comfortable shoes.
When to go?
Spring and autumn strike the best balance between pleasant weather and manageable crowds. May, June, and September are especially recommended. Summer brings heavy crowds and spiking prices. The Bath Christmas Market transforms the city in December with more than 200 chalets clustered around the abbey, creating a magical atmosphere despite the heavy foot traffic. The Jane Austen Festival animates the city every September with period costume parades and literary events.
I spent a very pleasant weekend in Bath after taking the train from London. The city is famous for its abbey and Roman baths, both of which are very well preserved. But I also really enjoyed walking around the city center. You can find plenty of cute shops, markets, like the amazing Bath Guildhall Market, and delicious tea rooms. As a big Jane Austen fan, I could not miss visiting The Jane Austen Centre, which offers a good immersion into the author's work with costumes, objects, and paintings. However, I was a little disappointed by the content, which is quite sparse. I recommend going, with prior reservation, during the Jane Austen Festival held in mid-September. English Regency atmosphere guaranteed!