It’s September 9, 2013. As our plane gently touches down on the tarmac, my heart starts racing, and the iconic theme song from the American series that filled my childhood with joy and daydreams, none other than "Beverly Hills" and its legendary couple, "Brandon and Kelly", starts playing in my head.
Without any control over my brain, a parade of images, or rather, "clichés", of what I consider America in all its splendor begins: those long, endless white sandy beaches famous for their bodybuilders with rippling, glistening abs and silicon-enhanced pin-ups on roller skates, those massive billionaire mansions with oversized pools, rows of palm trees competing to reach that iconic California blue sky… in short, at that exact moment, everything flashes by, not to mention Pamela Anderson’s legendary red bikini and the famous "lifeguard towers" from the series "Baywatch"!
Fortunately, a message from the flight attendant pulls me out of my daydream to let me know we’ve finally arrived, arrived at the place I’ve been dreaming of visiting for so many years: LOS ANGELES!
Unfortunately, my partner and I only have 2 days in this mythical city during our road trip through the American West. But follow me, and let’s see what’s possible to see and do in such a short time in this "City of Angels" with its thousand and one facets!
But before we go any further, a quick cultural zoom on this city and some practical tips to avoid certain traps and make the most of your visit.
A bit of culture…
What is Los Angeles?
It was originally land inhabited by numerous Native American tribes, including the Chumash and the Tongva (the "first peoples"), which then passed into the hands of Spanish settlers and missionaries in 1781 before becoming a Mexican possession in 1821, and finally being taken over by the United States in 1846.
It was during this era that everything changed for the destiny of this modest "village," which would experience a true boom in both population and economy with the discovery of gold in 1848 and oil in 1890, followed by the arrival of the train in 1876, not to mention the establishment of the Hollywood dream factory and numerous film productions starting in 1920, making Los Angeles the true "Mecca" of world cinema.
But Los Angeles is more than just that. It’s also a giant modern puzzle of 88 neighborhoods spanning 1,290 km² in southwestern California, on the Pacific coast, making it the largest city in California. It brings together over 18 million inhabitants of very diverse origins (more than 140 nationalities and over 200 different languages), making it a highly cosmopolitan and incredibly "open-minded" city.
If these staggering numbers might lead you to think this metropolis is a labyrinth of skyscrapers like its rivals New York, Hong Kong, Tokyo, or even Chicago, that’s not the case at all.
In fact, by getting a bit of elevation on the city's hills, you will be surprised and struck by this infinite and somewhat disconcerting horizontality. Aside from the few skyscrapers in Downtown, Los Angeles looks more like a gigantic ocean of single-story houses bathed in a carpet of lights and advertising signs where, against all odds, vegetation still finds an important and privileged place.
Finally, Los Angeles is also a sprawling network of seven-lane highways that will make your head spin, revealing, alas, an urban jungle of inequalities connecting neighborhoods of extreme poverty with those of insolent luxury. But, fortunately and paradoxically, Los Angeles is also a place where life is good and has become an eldorado for tourists thanks to its omnipresent sun, whose reputation is well-established!
Indeed, with a record number of sunny days per year (320), mild winters, and warm summers cooled by Pacific breezes, Los Angeles has always been, and will always be, a dream for the entire world!
So, to summarize, Los Angeles isn't a city that invites you to look up, nor is it a city of old stones and sculpted facades that we Europeans are used to seeing daily. On the contrary, it is a recent, modern city, practically born in the 20th century, which builds horizontally, isn't afraid of space, a city where the car takes center stage, and finally, a city of eternal spring that represents both all the excesses and all the dreams of humanity!
And want a little anecdote? This much-adored city hasn't always been called "Los Angeles." Its true original name, given by Spanish settler Felipe de Neve in 1781, is exactly, take a deep breath, "El Pueblo de Nuestra Señora la Reina de Los Angeles de Porciúncula," which means "The Village of Our Lady the Queen of the Angels of Porciúncula."
Fortunately for us, over time, since this long-winded name wouldn't fit on an envelope or a map, the inhabitants chose to shorten it and call the city "Los Angeles." Talk about a relief for everyone! Imagine the series: "NCIS: El Pueblo de Nuestra Señora la Reina de Los Angeles de Porciúncula" …!!!
Getting around Los Angeles
Alright, enough jokes! Let’s return to reality and head out to discover the city's must-sees, even if, I admit, we’ll have to make some concessions and skip certain spots because two days is unfortunately too short to see everything, but it’s not impossible to forge memorable and unforgettable memories of this corner of paradise!
But to do so, one thing is, in my opinion, ESSENTIAL to fully enjoy this vast and spread-out space: a CAR, which you can rent online or directly upon arrival at the Los Angeles airport.
As for us, my partner and I always have the habit of renting our car online via the site BSP-Auto, which is a price comparison tool that offers a wide choice of cars at a very attractive price.
Moreover, if you book relatively far in advance (about 6 to 8 months), you can rent a convertible for a very affordable price, which is, in my opinion, the "MUST of the MUST" for exploring Los Angeles! Above all, if you can afford it, don't deny yourself; it’s really worth it, and you absolutely won’t regret it!
Now that your car is rented, how does it work once you arrive at the airport?
Actually, as soon as you’ve collected your suitcase and walked through the airport exit doors, you’ll need to wait for a shuttle corresponding to your car rental company (for example, Hertz, Alamo, Dollar, Budget, Enterprise, Avis, Sixt, etc.). Be aware that sometimes it can take a little time, but don't worry, an appropriate shuttle always ends up arriving!
Then, once you’ve boarded, the shuttle will take you for free (though a tip for the shuttle driver is still very welcome!) to your rental company’s parking lot, where you’ll need to finalize the last formalities (insurance, gas, GPS) to finally get the keys to your vehicle.
And after that, aside from avoiding "rush" hours to escape the city’s monstrous traffic jams, having a good US-specific GPS, and booking a hotel near the tourist attractions you want to visit, I have only one thing to say to you: "Have fun and enjoy your stay"!
By the way, how about starting your stay with a place you’ve certainly all seen and heard on TV, pronounced, idealized, and very likely coveted in your wildest dreams? Yes, I’m talking about Hollywood, with its mythical star-studded boulevard and its legendary white letters of oversized proportions proudly standing on the hills of Los Angeles.
Well, if you're up for it, follow me!
Day 1, in the heights: Hollywood and Beverly Hills
A few lines ago, I gave you the choice of whether or not to follow me for this tour of greater Hollywood, but to be perfectly honest, leaving Los Angeles without visiting its most evocative neighborhood would be a true crime in my book!
So, dear readers, this is no longer an option but an order: slather on a good dose of sunscreen and follow me to discover Hollywood, starting with its famous sign, because whether you like it or not, and even if it might seem a bit "cliché", you too will want to come back with a souvenir photo at the foot of it!
Hollywood Sign
Several options are available to you:
Hiking there
For this, I suggest taking the "The Wonder View Trail Route," which starts at the intersection of Lake Hollywood Drive and Wonder View Drive. It’s the shortest (but not the easiest) path to reach the famous letters of the sign.
A question then arises: where to park your car?
Be aware that you cannot park at the park entrance gate. You will need to park along Lake Hollywood Drive about 400 meters below the gate.
As for the difficulty of the trail, it’s all about having strong calves and a good pair of hiking boots because, for the first twenty minutes, you won't be facing a flat, paved road, but a very steep and technical trail made of sand and large rocks! So, please, don't be as stubborn as I was, don't set off wearing a simple pair of flip-flops!
Well, I’ll reassure you: the second part of the route is much easier and more pleasant to hike, with an added breathtaking view of the Los Angeles valley and Pasadena. Enough to make you forget those drops of sweat shed during these 40 minutes of walking, 2.4 km of climbing, and 266 m of elevation gain!
But, believe me, once you reach the top of the hill, which is actually Mount Lee, and come face-to-face with those gigantic letters that will no longer be behind your TV screen but truly before your amazed eyes, you’ll tell yourself that all the effort was well worth it!
Going by horseback
The second possibility, and one we absolutely loved, is horseback riding.
For this, you just need to go to the following address:
3400 N Beachwood Dr., Los Angeles, CA 90068
where free parking awaits you at the top of Beachwood Drive, after the gate on the right side, and where the "Sunset Ranch" and their truly kind team will warmly welcome you, offering rides lasting from 1 to 2 hours, and even at night!
For our part, we chose the 1-hour ride, which was more than enough to enjoy a fantastic view of Los Angeles and experience thrills of excitement and wonder, but also, I admit, a bit of fear, because I don't know why, but these Hollywood horses had the annoying habit of walking not quietly on the hill side, but perilously on the edge of the precipice!!!
Maybe they were reclaiming their adventurous, daredevil horse spirits, much like Hollywood stuntmen?
One thing is certain: taking a ride while spotting the Hollywood sign from your saddle, right in the heart of the city, was simply unexpected and was truly a wild experience!
Getting another perspective
Finally, the third possibility is to go to one of the most famous astronomical observatories in the United States: the "Griffith Observatory" planetarium, in Griffith Park, about ten kilometers from downtown Los Angeles, where you will have an exceptional panoramic view of the City of Angels as well as the Hollywood sign.
By the way, if you choose this third option, I advise you to go in the late afternoon to admire the sumptuous sunset that bathes the city in magical colors.
A choice all the more justified as everything there is free: parking (be careful, capacity is limited), access to the observatory, telescopes, programs, and special events… In a country where everything is usually a matter of "business and money," don't think twice, go for it!
Let’s head back down a few meters and discover another must-see place that you shouldn't miss under any circumstances: "Hollywood Boulevard" and its prestigious "Walk of Fame."
Hollywood Boulevard: the Walk of Fame
You dreamed of it, you’re here! In front of these 2,600+ stars embedded in the most famous sidewalk in the world: the iconic "Walk of Fame"!
Here, it’s not just in your eyes but also on 2.1 km of pavement (from Gower Street to La Brea) that the stars of thousands of celebrities, 10 inventors, 3 astronauts, and 2 American presidents shine, with each star featuring an emblem indicating the category in which the star distinguished themselves:
- a camera for cinema;
- a television set for the small screen world;
- a record player for the music industry;
- a microphone for radio stars;
- a duo of ancient theater masks for theater personalities.
But, as you might suspect, having your own piece of sidewalk on "Hollywood Boulevard" isn't given to just anyone, even if, in theory, any average person can send a letter to the "Hollywood Chamber of Commerce" to ask to be publicly recognized through a star-studded slab erected in their name.
But for their application to be taken seriously, the individual must prove they have truly accomplished something and have been known in their category for 5 years or more. Furthermore, they must state in this famous letter that they want a star and will be present at the small unveiling ceremony a few months later. Finally, they must raise $30,000, half of which goes to the "Hollywood Historic Trust" association, which handles the maintenance of the "Walk of Fame," and the other half covers the creation of the star and the organization of the ceremony.
A real obstacle course, certainly, but isn't that the price to pay for eternal recognition?
Because, indeed, even if they get "trampled" all day long, even if their star is more or less well-placed, even if they are superficial or natural, admired or hated, out of the public eye or under the spotlights, simple or "bling-bling," one thing is certain: any star with their name on this piece of Californian sidewalk can and will forever boast of being immortal!
A privilege we might have one day, who knows? But in the meantime, let’s continue our stroll on this immense boulevard, which isn't just a simple constellation of stars engraved in the slab.
Indeed, it also houses cinemas that have immortalized the greatest stars of the seventh art, such as the "Grauman’s Chinese Theatre," where all the major premieres take place and in front of which the greatest, like Humphrey Bogart, Marilyn Monroe, or Donald Duck, have left their hand or footprints in the cement. You’ll also find the "Egyptian Theatre" at the exit, which premiered Robin Hood in its early days, and a little further on, the "Kodak Theatre," which hosts the Oscars Ceremony every year.
All this in a maze of shops offering an infinite choice of souvenirs (by which I was, of course, lured!) and in front of which don't be surprised to find a life-sized Superman or Marilyn Monroe with whom you’ll certainly be tempted to take a photo. But, be careful, as I told you earlier, you are here in the land of "business and money," so a photo, even taken with your own camera or phone, will inevitably have a price!
Our Hollywood stroll now finished, let’s head immediately to Beverly Hills, a neighborhood it was unthinkable to skip as a lifelong fan of the series!
Beverly Hills
Beverly Hills… When you arrive at this place, the first thing you say to yourself is: "Wow, the series weren't lying!".
The immense white houses with a presidential look, the gardens delicately maintained by a private gardener, the finely manicured lawns where not a single unsightly blade of grass sticks out, the disproportionately sized gates, the luxury cars parked in front of every entrance, the streets lined with gigantic palm trees standing like a ballet of starry dancers, the extremely clean sidewalks where you could almost eat off them… in short, here, everything is like on TV, if not even better because, in reality, in addition to this sumptuous setting, a magical, peaceful, and somewhat mysterious atmosphere emerges, because behind every gate lies an intrigue: "But who could possibly hold the keys to this magnificent residence? A movie star, a singer, a billionaire, a wealthy businessman, an heir, a diplomat…?".
So many questions left unanswered, but which are good and delightful to ask yourself while walking through the neighborhood.
Personally, I am an unconditional fan of walks in this prestigious place, which makes my heart flutter with wonder every time and fills me with joy. The architecture of the houses, each more surprising, crazier, and larger than the next, is what I love most! If I could, I would take a photo of all of them, but for lack of space on my memory card, there are, alas, some I have to settle for just looking at. One thing is certain and reassuring: there is enough room in my heart and my head to forever engrave the memory of this fabulous neighborhood.
All this to tell you that, YES, it is imperative to plan a walk or a drive in this legendary Beverly Hills!
Now, obviously, some companies will offer you tours of the area to discover, in particular, the stars' homes, but honestly, aside from the gates of their mansions, you won't see much more than what you could have discovered on your own! So, if someone approaches you on the street to offer you this kind of expedition, a piece of advice: keep moving and head instead toward Rodeo Drive, where other major surprises await you!
But ABOVE ALL, before you leave, don't forget your souvenir photo with the famous "Beverly Hills" sign, written in yellow on a green background, which is located at the intersection of Santa Monica Boulevard and North Doheny Drive. Another "Beverly Hills" sign, in a rainbow style, is also very well-known and is worth the detour for a photo: it is located in "Beverly Gardens Park," at 9439 Santa Monica Boulevard.
Rodeo Drive
"Pretty woman, walkin’ down the street,
Pretty woman, the kind I’d like to meet,
Pretty woman, I don’t believe you, you’re not the truth,
No one could look as good as you"…
It resonates in all our heads, and we all see the images of Julia Roberts entering that prestigious hotel in an outfit somewhat daring and dissonant for the place, but where she will later learn to become a lady of the world with the complicity of the hotel manager! Well, hold on tight: the hotel I’m talking about, the majestic "Beverly Wilshire Hotel," is indeed located on Rodeo Drive, along with the many luxury boutiques that took the mischievous pleasure of turning Vivian away in the film!
By the way, if you want to treat your sweetheart, know that this establishment offers to put you in the role of the famous Pretty Woman couple for a weekend. On the program: shopping on Rodeo Drive with a "personal shopper," a Rolls Royce ride with a private driver to the sublime gardens of Greystone Mansion to re-enact the film's scene, an evening at the Los Angeles Opera, and a night in THE presidential suite from the romantic comedy!
Since the hotel doesn't post the price for this service, we can guess it’s reserved only for a certain category of wallet! But nothing should stop you from going inside, at least for the pleasure of the eyes, into its mythical lobby, which is accessible to all budgets!
On the other hand, I wouldn't say the same for the multiple luxury boutiques of the most prestigious brands (Armani, Chanel, Gucci, Cartier, Dior, Hermès, Versace, Vuitton, Saint Laurent, etc.) that are concentrated on this alley, said to be the most expensive and posh in the world. So much so, in fact, that comparing the Champs-Élysées to this avenue would almost be an insult!
But don't panic, dear readers; even if you don't have the fortune of George Clooney or Brad Pitt, it costs nothing to stroll, window-shop, or simply sit on a bench on this street to admire the almost immaculate decor, as well as the coming and going of luxury cars.
And if you continue walking to the corner of Rodeo Drive and Wilshire Boulevard, you will be amazed to stumble upon the most photographed and visited spot on Rodeo Drive: "Two Rodeo," a high-end shopping center designed like a Parisian street, with restaurants, beauty salons, and trendy boutiques… A place of great beauty!
So, to summarize, if I advise you to visit Rodeo Drive, it’s above all for the magic, delicacy, and majesty of the place which, I am sure, will leave you speechless, whether or not you are a fan of this kind of world! And above all, remember one thing: regardless of your fortune, memories are priceless!
And so, on this note of opulence and elegance, our first day ends, which I hope will have allowed you to have stars in your eyes!
Day 2, on the coast: Long Beach, Santa Monica, and Venice Beach
For this second day, you are certainly expecting a visit to the Hollywood studios. But, personally and in all sincerity, I think that in such a short time, other cult locations in the city should be prioritized, and if you want my opinion, it is better to plan and save the studios for a longer stay (minimum 4 days) in Los Angeles.
By the way, if you’re willing to follow me and trust me, I have a little gem for you that people don't necessarily think of when the name Los Angeles is mentioned, but which is still, in my opinion, a must-see. Ladies and Gentlemen, I have the honor of presenting the "Queen Mary"!
The Queen Mary
Dear readers, have you seen the film "Titanic"? If so, well, believe me, you will feel like you are reliving scenes from this mythical film by boarding the most beautiful, the largest, the tallest, and the widest of all the ocean liners: the Queen Mary, which now rests quietly in the waters of Long Beach, at the very end of the 710 Freeway South.
But who really is this giant of the seas?
A bit of history…
Launched in England on September 26, 1934, the Queen Mary was then the largest luxury ocean liner ever built in its time (along with its twin brother, the Queen Elizabeth, which fell victim to a fire near Hong Kong in 1972): 310 m long, 36 m wide, 12 m draft. It could accommodate up to 2,000 passengers and 1,200 crew members.
If the Queen Mary first recalls the time of transatlantic crossings synonymous with splendor and celebration for first-class occupants and the promised land for those in third (the liner’s first arrival in New York, on June 1, 1936, was triumphant!), it also recalls a darker time, that of the Second World War, where, repainted in gray and stripped of all its magnificence, the "Old Lady" began a military career, now calling itself the "Gray Ghost" (because of its color and speed). For the record, Hitler offered a $250,000 reward for its destruction at the time!
Fortunately for us, it was not destroyed. It was returned to civilian life in 1946 and finally retired in 1967, unable to compete with its new technological enemy: the airplane! It was in June of that same year that it was bought by the city of Long Beach, where, transformed into a museum-hotel-restaurant, the Queen Mary now enjoys peaceful days under the California sun and offers those who wish to board numerous attractions and tours highlighting its tumultuous past and its reputation as a haunted ship (several paranormal phenomena have been reported on board the ship since its arrival in Long Beach…).
The visit…
First of all, this majestic liner offers its visitors the possibility to walk through all its lower and upper decks, its engine room, its command center, its chapel, its hotel entrance, and its corridors, all at one's own pace (allow about 1 hour and 30 minutes), using an audio guide (available in French) and for the sum of about thirty euros per adult (entrance ticket, audio guide, exhibitions, and access to the 4D cinema included).
By the way, if you’re up for it, why not go to the bow of the liner and re-enact with your sweetheart the unforgettable scene of Leonardo DiCaprio tenderly embracing Kate Winslet, arms open, as if conquering the new world? To tell you the truth, I let myself get caught up in the game…!
Afterward, if you aren't too into romance, don't panic; you will have as another choice the possibility of going back in time and pretending to be a sailor or a soldier for a moment thanks to the many exhibitions that accompany the visitor throughout their tour, such as a reconstruction of the captain’s and his officers’ cabins or the soldiers’ cabins of the Queen Mary during the Second World War. Having personally visited the ship, I can tell you that the reconstruction is stunning!
Various restaurants and shops also await you on board, just to take a little break with a breathtaking view of the port of Long Beach.
And if you want to end your visit on a high note, why not spend a night on board one of the most famous ocean liners in the world? Believe me, the experience will be unique with a real leap into the past and thrills guaranteed!
Finally, the icing on the cake: if you wish, it will be possible to dive back into the heart of the Cold War for a tour of an authentic Russian submarine, the Scorpion, juxtaposed with the Queen Mary (entrance fee: 14 dollars)! As for us, we didn't visit it, but just contemplating such a war machine left us speechless!
After this fabulous journey through time, immediate takeoff for a journey just as confusing, not in Florida, but almost…
Naples Island
If some tourist guides or blogs will very likely direct you to the canals of Venice Beach, reminiscent of the real Venice in Italy (be careful, this is not a critique because the place is really worth the detour), I suggest, for my part, a somewhat similar attraction but in a completely different place, much less frequented by tourists and much more peaceful for my taste: the Naples Island Canals (or "Naples Canals"), just 10 minutes by car from the center of Long Beach, which were for me a revelation that I absolutely had to share with you.
But what are the "Naples Canals"?
Due to the interlacing of its canals and the houses organized along them, "Naples Canals" is a bit of a mix of "Venice Canals" (in Venice Beach), Venice itself (the real one in Italy, as gondola rides are possible on the canals), and Miami.
It’s green, it’s excessively rich, it’s incredibly quiet, it’s residential with breathtaking houses that one will most certainly never own (unless you have no less than 1 million dollars in your wallet!), it’s immaculately clean, it’s of unparalleled politeness (everyone who passes each other exchanges a little hello or a kind word), …, in short, it’s as American as it gets!
In reality, what makes this place exceptional and explains why I’m taking you there is above all the canal side. It’s true, it’s not a usual
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