Beverly Hills: The California Dream of Palms and Excess
It is 9:00 AM on Rodeo Drive. The storefronts of Chanel and Louis Vuitton are already glistening under the California sun, yet the sidewalks remain strangely quiet. A man in an impeccable suit steps out of a black Tesla, coffee in hand. A woman walks two miniature poodles, her sunglasses wider than her face. Welcome to 90210, the most famous zip code in the world.
Beverly Hills: Who is it actually for?
If you are dreaming of bumping into Leonardo DiCaprio while he runs errands or dining next to Kim Kardashian, you will likely be disappointed. Stars stay hidden behind their gates and impenetrable hedges. What you will see, however, is the most unapologetic expression of American luxury: sports cars double-parked, boutiques where a t-shirt costs as much as a monthly car payment, and hotels where a single night exceeds some families' entire vacation budget.
The city is perfect for fans of spectacular residential architecture, high-end shopping enthusiasts, and those who simply want to observe a lifestyle that is entirely detached from reality. However, if you are looking for the laid-back California of surfers and food trucks, head over to Venice Beach instead.
Pro tip: Reserve a maximum of half a day for Beverly Hills if you are not a luxury shopping addict. The neighborhood is easy to navigate on foot for the commercial district, but a car becomes essential for exploring the residential hills.
A budget that will make you blink
Prices in Beverly Hills defy common sense. Expect $300 to $800 per night for a mid-range hotel, $25 to $50 for a decent lunch, and at least $100 per person for dinner at a reputable restaurant. Even parking costs between $5 and $20 per hour depending on the zone.
The Golden Triangle: The city's beating heart
The triangle formed by Santa Monica Boulevard, Wilshire Boulevard, and Crescent Drive concentrates most of the commercial activity. This is where Julia Roberts went shopping in Pretty Woman, and the vibe has not changed much since.
Rodeo Drive remains the star. Three blocks of designer boutiques where simply walking through the door can feel intimidating. Contrary to popular belief, sales associates are generally welcoming to visitors, even those who do not plan on buying anything. The pedestrian section known as Two Rodeo mimics a European alley with its cobblestones and wrought-iron lampposts.
For a more accessible break, head down to Beverly Drive. The shops are still expensive but less stratospheric, and the cafes are perfect for watching the ballet of locals moving between meetings.
The Hills: Where the celebrities live
North of Sunset Boulevard, the landscape changes drastically. Streets wind up into the Santa Monica Mountains, lined with properties boasting imposing gates. Celebrity home tours are everywhere, offered by bus, bike, or even helicopter.
My personal take: these tours are often disappointing. You will see perimeter walls, security cameras, and, at best, a sliver of a roof. If you are still tempted, opt for small-group SUV tours rather than the large, crowded buses.
Mulholland Drive offers a free and much more satisfying alternative. This 20-mile winding road traverses the Hollywood Hills all the way to the coast. Several overlooks allow you to admire the Hollywood Sign, the San Fernando Valley, and, on a clear day, the Pacific Ocean. Sunset from the Jerome C. Daniel Overlook is particularly striking.
The hidden gems
The Greystone Mansion is absolutely worth the detour. This 55-room manor, built in 1928 for the son of an oil tycoon, has served as a set for dozens of films, from Spider-Man to The Big Lebowski. The interior is rarely open to the public, but the English-style gardens are free to access. The history of the place is fascinating: in 1929, the owner was found dead in a guest room under circumstances that were never solved.
The Virginia Robinson Gardens represent the first luxury estate built in Beverly Hills, in 1911. Fred Astaire and Charlie Chaplin were regulars. Today, you can visit the botanical gardens by reservation for $15, discovering a collection of tropical and Mediterranean plants along with a rose garden.
Pro tip: The Spadena House, nicknamed the Witch's House, is located at 516 Walden Drive. This twisted and whimsical construction, built in 1921 for film studios, offers an unexpected photo opportunity in the middle of classic villas. It is private property and cannot be toured, but it is worth a look from the street.
Beverly Gardens Park
This two-mile linear park runs along Santa Monica Boulevard and houses the famous Beverly Hills sign where everyone wants their photo. But the park also hides a rose garden, a cactus garden, and one of the oldest ficus trees in the country. Locals go for their morning jogs here, and the atmosphere remains peaceful despite the proximity to the shops.
The cultural scene
The Wallis Annenberg Center for the Performing Arts occupies the former Beverly Hills post office, a 1933 Italian Renaissance building. The programming mixes contemporary dance, theater, and concerts in a 500-seat hall. The restored frescoes of the old post office are worth the visit alone.
Contemporary art lovers should head to the Mr. Brainwash Art Museum, housed in a building designed by Richard Meier. Street artist Thierry Guetta displays his colorful pop works here. More exclusive, the Frederick R. Weisman Art Foundation, in the neighboring Holmby Hills area, presents an impressive private collection by reservation, including Picasso, Kandinsky, and Warhol.
Where to eat and drink in Beverly Hills?
The local dining scene oscillates between chef-driven restaurants where dinner costs a fortune and a few more accessible spots that have resisted the general gentrification. Spago, Wolfgang Puck's flagship, has embodied inventive California cuisine since 1992. His smoked salmon and caviar pizza remains legendary.
For decent value, Il Pastaio offers fresh homemade pasta in a lively trattoria setting. Justin Bieber even has a signature dish there, the paccheri with vodka rosé sauce. On weekday afternoons, the terrace is crawling with locals between meetings.
Nate 'n Al's, open since 1945, serves classics from the New York Jewish deli: matzo ball soup, pastrami, and corned beef. Larry King had his reserved table there. The old-school atmosphere contrasts with the rest of the neighborhood. For gourmet cheeses and sandwiches, The Cheese Store of Beverly Hills stocks over 500 varieties and prepares sandwiches to go.
Pro tip: The Polo Lounge at the Beverly Hills Hotel lets you taste the Old Hollywood atmosphere without necessarily staying there. Book in advance for a brunch or a cocktail on the shaded terrace.
Where to stay in and around Beverly Hills?
The Beverly Hills Hotel, nicknamed the Pink Palace, has hosted celebrities since 1912. Marilyn Monroe and John Lennon stayed here. Rates start around $700 per night. The Beverly Wilshire, made famous by Pretty Woman, lists similar prices for a more urban style.
Travelers with a more reasonable budget should look toward West Hollywood, just a stone's throw from Beverly Hills, where mid-range hotels offer better value. The Maison 140 offers rooms starting at $200 with quirky Parisian decor. The Avalon Hotel, a former refuge for Marilyn Monroe, retains an iconic pool and softer rates than its star-studded neighbors.
How to get to and around Beverly Hills?
LAX airport is 25 to 45 minutes away depending on traffic, which can turn the trip into a real ordeal during rush hour. Budget $50 to $80 for a taxi or rideshare. From Burbank airport, which is smaller and less chaotic, the trip takes about 30 minutes.
A subway line now serves Beverly Hills on the extension of the Purple Line, facilitating connections to Downtown LA. But to explore the city and its hills, a car remains essential. Parking is easy to find in municipal lots around the Golden Triangle.
From San Francisco, expect a 6-hour drive along the coast or 5 hours inland. A domestic flight takes about 1 hour and 20 minutes. From Paris, the direct flight to LAX lasts 11 hours.
When to go?
The Mediterranean climate of Beverly Hills allows for a pleasant visit year-round. Summer remains hot and dry with temperatures around 82°F (28°C), while winter remains mild, between 50 and 68°F (10-20°C). Spring and autumn offer the best conditions with fewer tourists and ideal temperatures. Avoid the Oscars period in March if possible, when hotels are fully booked and prices skyrocket.
A posh neighborhood, Beverly Hills reveals itself through its magnificent villas and luxury shops on Rodeo Drive. Between Saint Laurent, Gucci, and Chanel, it is a great place for window shopping. It is hard to buy anything given the prices, but I enjoyed the chic and relaxed atmosphere of the place. It is also a good spot for souvenir photos, especially in front of the Beverly Hills sign and its lovely lily pond. I recommend going early in the morning to avoid the tourist groups. About an hour on site is enough in my opinion.