Here is the story of my trip to Croatia at the end of September.
I stayed at a resort located in the Istria region. This geographical area is mostly Croatian, but its territory is shared with Italy and Slovenia. Surrounded by water on two sides, its coastline stretches along the Adriatic Sea, starting from the Gulf of Trieste all the way to the Kvarner Gulf, which everyone is familiar with, of course…
What to do and see in southern Istria in one week
The town of Rovinj
A history of Rovinj
Founded in the 4th century, the town’s growth and expansion were tied to its trade with Venice. Once an island, it struck a deal with the "Serenissima" to defend itself against pirates. The Venetians fortified the town so it could withstand assaults from pirates as well as the Genoese. In the decades that followed, its shipyards faced stiff competition from those in Pula, which eventually overtook them.
Later on, like the rest of Istria, Rovinj went through some turbulent times: first under Austrian rule, it passed to France before returning to Austrian control, then to Italy, and finally to the former Yugoslavia before gaining its independence.
St. Euphemia Cathedral, a baroque architectural gem
One sight you absolutely cannot miss is St. Euphemia Cathedral, which sits on the heights, overlooking the town. Built in the early 18th century, it is considered the largest baroque building in the entire Istrian region. The era of its construction coincides with the town's golden age, when it served as a bridgehead for the Venetian fleet and marked the region with its glory.
The basilica is dedicated to Saint Euphemia, a Christian martyr. Legend has it that her remains reappeared one stormy night off the coast of Rovinj after disappearing from Constantinople, where she had been buried. She was later transferred to the church that preceded the current cathedral. Her tomb is now located behind the altar on the right.
The cathedral features a bell tower built on the model of the one at the St. Mark's Basilica in Venice. The weather vane at its peak depicts Saint Euphemia. You should also head inside the cathedral to discover a statue of Saint George slaying the dragon and some impressive paintings.
Other attractions in Rovinj
Beyond the cathedral and the pleasant stroll you can take on the heights of the town, you can always admire the lovely Mediterranean fishing port with its colorful boats, from which expeditions to the thirteen small islands nearby also depart.
You should also check out the Balbi Arch, built on the site of one of the old town gates. Three of the original seven gates are still standing. Closely linked to the history that unites the town and the City of Doges, the arch features a depiction of the winged lion, the emblem of Venice.
The town also has a municipal aquarium, one of the oldest in the Mediterranean. I didn't visit it, so I can't offer a recommendation.
The city of Pula
This city dates back more than three thousand years. The Roman ruins on the site attest to the importance of this place, which served as the administrative capital of a Roman region as early as the first century. Traces of this remain everywhere, especially in the form of magnificent buildings.
The Roman Amphitheater
Pula's most famous monument is undoubtedly the superb Roman amphitheater, one of the best-preserved in the Mediterranean. You really shouldn't miss it, whether you're a history buff or not. Built by Emperor Augustus in the 1st century, it was completely rebuilt by Vespasian in 79 AD.
It is one of the largest amphitheaters built by the Romans: standing thirty-five meters high, it could accommodate up to 24,000 spectators during gladiator shows. For the comfort of the audience, it could be covered by huge sails stretched over their heads from one end to the other. The stone seats for the spectators were demolished in the Middle Ages to provide materials for other buildings in the city.
Other Roman monuments in Pula
As I mentioned, the city is packed with monuments inherited from its history:
- The Temple of Augustus, which was part of the forum of Roman Pula, is still relatively well-preserved. Its construction spanned from 2 BC to 14 AD.
- Besides this temple, the Capitol is still standing, now converted into the communal palace and former town hall.
- The Arch of the Sergii is also worth a detour. It was built in honor of three members of the Sergius family who had distinguished themselves within the community.
Cultural discoveries
To round out your visit, don't hesitate to take a look at the archaeological museum in Pula, which features beautiful pieces ranging from Prehistory to the Middle Ages.
For those who also want to enjoy the city, you should know that it is renowned for its vibrant cultural life. The amphitheater, for example, is regularly used for festivals, performances, or concerts. Check before you arrive; you might be able to book tickets for some interesting events.
But Pula is also about lively streets, good restaurants, and bars… I’ll tell you more about the local culinary specialties to discover later.
Istrian beaches
Given Istria's geographical location, it would be a shame not to take advantage of its coastline for a swim!
Our hotel's beach, a great option
Our hotel, the Bi-Village Resort, is a 4-star holiday club built between Pula and Rovinj during the Tito and former Yugoslavia era for Communist Party officials on vacation. That might not sound dreamy, but we had an excellent stay. I particularly enjoyed the access to a private beach, which even included a mini water park.
The setting of our resort perfectly reflected what Croatia is all about: a splendid, very lush region. A path winding through the wooded park led down to the sea. The beach (made of round pebbles) had a gentle slope before dropping off quite steeply.
And the water!!! What a joy to see such transparent water!! Honestly, I hadn't yet had the chance to see a sea this beautiful that made me want to jump right in. It’s a real treat for budding swimmers like me, since with a simple mask, fins, and snorkel kit, I was able to easily admire the aquatic wildlife along the shore: small fish and… an octopus! It came to greet me quite calmly, not too bothered by my presence…
Debeljak, the only real sandy beach in Southern Istria
The vast majority of beaches are made of pebbles, but the Pula region offers the only real sandy beach in the area: Debeljak beach. You will still need a vehicle because there is no public transport, and it is located about twenty kilometers from Pula. We were lucky enough to go because it was included in the tour we chose at the hotel.
It’s a pretty beach located in a bay. The sandy part isn't huge, but the sea is superb. It feels good not to have to walk on the large pebbles found everywhere else. You arrive there after walking through a forest. Several pleasure boats come to anchor there.
On the way, our guide quickly showed us the Donji Kamenjak nature reserve located near Premantura, south of Pula. It can be a destination for those who wish to visit. Locals, especially daring young people, go there for cliff-jumping competitions into the sea.
Culinary specialties of Istria to taste
Food
The food reminded me a lot of that in Slavic countries, which, quite logically, is perfectly normal…
Land-based dishes
Thus, stews, goulash, and small herb sausages were on the menu almost everywhere. But there was also one of Istria's specialties: a vegetable and bean soup called "menestra," which is very similar to the minestrone of neighboring Italy. And that is exactly what characterizes Istrian cuisine: it has managed to take in various Slavic and Latin influences and blend them together.
Croatian cuisine also offers truffle dishes. You just have to know how to cook them properly, which was not the case for a small seaside restaurant that served us truffle pasta that had a strong taste of gas… But, being optimists by nature, we tried again two days later at a more sophisticated restaurant, and the chef definitely reconciled us with this recipe!
Seafood dishes
Istria also uses its proximity to the sea to offer fish-based dishes and… octopus (the one I met while swimming was lucky!). You will find plates of fried sardines or octopus, or even marinated anchovies, everywhere. I recommend the cuttlefish risotto: a treat…
In any case, the meals were very often hearty and quite high in calories.
Drinks
Don't look for tap water at the table: there is only mineral water… and wine or beer! However, you can drink the tap water; it is not unsafe to consume. It’s just a matter of culture. The wine offered is easy to drink, without necessarily being a grand cru. But it is still quite easy to taste the sun that helped the grapes ripen. For a vacation, it works just fine!
We were welcomed on the first evening with a small glass of plum brandy, served as an aperitif. Now, that is obviously a bit stronger… I’m not sure how the dosage is measured, but the sugary sensation is definitely present, even a bit cloying. Well, of course, all this should be consumed in moderation… There are also good coffees ("kava"), which can be Viennese style or simple, slightly more rustic espressos.
Practical information
Administrative formalities
There are no worries regarding administrative red tape for European citizens, especially since Croatia joined the European Union in July 2013 and even adopted the Euro in 2023. There are no special formalities other than having a passport or a national identity card for Europeans. No visa is required.
Flight and airport transfer
The trip was on an Airbus operated by Croatia Airlines. In total, the flight lasted a little less than five hours from Paris, with a layover in Zagreb, but be careful: some airlines offer flights lasting eleven hours!! We took off from Roissy Charles-de-Gaulle and arrived at the Ljubljana-Pula airport, in the near suburbs of the city. Here is a link to compare flight prices to Pula.
The transfer to the resort was by coach, chartered by the various tour operators that had filled the hotel. If needed, know that there are many taxis, and even Uber on site. You can also rent your own vehicle right from the airport.
Conclusion
In conclusion, I must admit that I was amazed by the place. The beauty of the landscapes is breathtaking, and the historical richness of the area is incredible. And that’s not even everything I had time to do… That’s why I wanted to go back recently. And unfortunately, that’s when I realized that prices had increased. So, if you can, take advantage of it soon!
PS: To return the favor to Foggy, don't hesitate to read his travel story on Dubrovnik, further south in Croatia.
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