Visiting Pula, an ancient treasure in the heart of the Adriatic
Gladiators have not entirely vanished from Pula. On a July evening, the Roman amphitheater still resonates with the echoes of reenacted combat, the famous Spectacvla Antiqva, underneath the floodlights of the film festival. This city in the south of the Croatian Istria region possesses a certain allure. It blends three millennia of history with a Mediterranean way of life, all without the overwhelming crowds found in Dubrovnik or Split.
Pula remains an under-the-radar gem, often overshadowed by its more famous peers, which is exactly where its appeal lies.
Who will fall for it?
Pula is a match for those seeking a mild climate, calm seas, and a long-standing wine tradition. Fans of ancient history and Roman architecture will find plenty to explore, as will families who appreciate crystal-clear beaches with shallow entries, many of which hold Blue Flag status for water quality. Couples looking for a romantic destination that feels less like a theme park than Venice will enjoy wandering the forum alleys at sunset.
On the other hand, if you are dreaming of soft sand beaches or a high-octane nightlife scene like Ibiza, you might find it less to your liking. Pula's beaches are composed of pebbles and rock, which makes the water incredibly transparent but necessitates water shoes.
Budget-wise, expect to spend between 60 and 100 EUR (about $65-$110) per day for a couple, covering lodging, meals, and sightseeing, which is quite reasonable for Croatia. A rental car is highly recommended for exploring isolated coves and the Istrian peninsula, though the local bus network works well for reaching the main beaches on the Verudela peninsula.
The Roman legacy: more than just an arena
The amphitheater, Pula's absolute crown jewel
Built in the 1st century AD, the Pula amphitheater, nicknamed the Arena, is the sixth-largest Roman amphitheater in the world and the best-preserved ancient monument in Croatia. With an original capacity of 23,000 spectators, its colossal dimensions remain impressive.
Today, it still hosts festivals and concerts, including the famous Pula Film Festival held every July since 1954. Do not miss the underground galleries, which house permanent exhibitions on antiquity featuring reconstructions of olive oil presses and Roman amphorae.
Insider tip: Visit the Arena early in the morning or late in the afternoon to take advantage of soft light, which is perfect for photography. Avoid the midday heat in summer, as the stone becomes suffocating. If you visit in July, book tickets for a concert or a festival screening, as the experience is memorable.
The Forum and its treasures
At the heart of the old town beats the Forum square, which has served as the nerve center of Pula for 2,000 years. The Temple of Augustus, dedicated to the Roman emperor, has miraculously survived the centuries and sits majestically on the plaza. Not far away, the Arch of the Sergii, erected in 27 BC, was once covered in gold decorations. This gate, adorned with fluted columns, marks the entrance to the old town and is a standard photo spot.
Climb up to the Venetian Kastel fortress, perched on the heights. This Renaissance defensive fort offers expansive views over the city and the sea, and today houses the Historical and Maritime Museum. During a heatwave, retreat to the nearby Tito Park or the Giardini gardens, where large century-old trees provide welcome shade.
The Istrian coast: turquoise coves and wild landscapes
The dream beaches of the Verudela peninsula
Hawaii Beach is, for many, the most beautiful beach in Pula. Nestled in the Pročipina cove, this white pebble bay sloping gently into a crystal-clear turquoise sea evokes the Caribbean. The dramatic rock formations surrounding it create a postcard-perfect setting for snorkeling. Nearby, Ambrela Beach is the quintessential family beach, with its shallow water, lounge chair rentals, showers, and a cafe. Its Blue Flag label guarantees high water quality.
Histria Beach, facing the Park Plaza Histria hotel, draws crowds with its unique atmosphere. An inflatable water park and kayak rentals make it a favorite for families. Those looking for more of an adrenaline rush should head to Stoja Beach and Galebove Stijene, spectacular cliffs where locals practice cliff jumping into electric-turquoise water.
The Brijuni archipelago, a blue and green escape
A short distance from Pula lies the Brijuni National Park, an archipelago of 14 islands with lush vegetation. This former summer residence of Marshal Tito offers a mix of history, nature, and unexpected encounters. The park offers a safari tour featuring exotic animals, such as zebras and antelopes, gifted to Tito by foreign leaders. Be sure to book your ferry ticket in advance, as spots sell out quickly in high season.
The EuroVelo 9 bike path ends in Pula after crossing through Poland, the Czech Republic, Austria, and Slovenia. It serves as a significant landmark for cyclists. For hikers, the protected Šijana forest and the Lungomare promenade, which winds from beach to beach under Aleppo pines, are essential walks.
Insider tip: Take the 2a bus from the Pula bus station to Verudela (about 1.50 EUR, or roughly $1.60 per ride). This will save you the hassle of parking in the summer. Once there, walk along the coast to discover several beaches in one afternoon, as it is one of the most beautiful coastal trails in Croatia.
Pula in motion: shows and nightlife
The city is not frozen in the past. The Lightning Giants, a massive lighting installation at the Uljanik shipyard created by artist Dean Skira, illuminates the port cranes every night between 9 PM and 10 PM with 16,000 different color combinations. It has become the go-to Instagram spot in Pula. In July, do not miss the Pula Film Festival in the arena for a cinematic experience under the stars.
As for the scene, Caffe Bar La Resistance offers a terrace with a direct view of the amphitheater, which is ideal for sipping a local beer at the end of the day. The bars around the Forum come alive in the evening with a crowd mixing tourists and locals, while Cafe Galerija Cvajner serves hot wine in the winter during Advent concerts.
Where to eat and drink in Pula?
Istria is the breadbasket of Croatia. The two regional grape varieties to try are Istarska Malvazija, a crisp white, and Teran, a full-bodied red. Most of the wine production stays in Croatia, making the experience feel local. On the plate, do not miss the pršut (Croatian prosciutto), black Istrian truffles grated over homemade pasta, and blitva, a dish of chard and potatoes with garlic that acts as a near-standard side for seafood.
Trattoria Vodnjanka, near the market, serves authentic home-style cooking prized even by local chefs, featuring gnocchi, grilled sardines, and meatballs in a tomato sauce that feels like a childhood memory. Batelina, a few kilometers from Pula, is considered by many to be the best seafood restaurant in Croatia, offering shark liver pâté, bonito tartare, and cuttlefish stew served as creative tapas.
Restaurant Milan offers a "buzara" (stew) of crabs with grilled polenta, a comforting Istrian classic. For a romantic setting, Ribarska Koliba, with over 100 years of tradition, offers a view of the Verudela marina.
On a tighter budget? Pečenjara Brod, near the market, serves excellent ćevapi (grilled meat skewers) with flatbread and Croatian relish for a very low price. The Mlinar bakery chain offers excellent bureks (stuffed pastries) and other baked goods for a quick lunch.
Where to stay in Pula and the surrounding area?
To experience Pula from the inside, stay in the old town near the Forum and the amphitheater. You will be at the center of the action, with restaurants and bars just steps away. Apartments are plentiful and often well-equipped. If you prefer a beach vacation, the Verudela peninsula concentrates the seaside hotels 4 km from the center. The Ribarska Koliba Resort is well-situated near Ambrela Beach and the bus stop. The Park Plaza Arena Pula enjoys a privileged location right above Hawaii Beach.
Campgrounds are scattered along the coast, particularly in Stoja and the surrounding areas. For a unique experience, it is even possible to rent a luxury 3-bedroom lighthouse near Svjetionik Beach, perfect for a stay off the beaten path. Nearby villages like Fažana (the gateway to Brijuni) or Medulin (to the south) offer quieter alternatives with excellent value for the money.
How to get to and around Pula?
Pula International Airport (PUY) is located 6 km from the city center and offers connections throughout Europe, notably with Ryanair and Croatia Airlines. Shuttles provide connections between the airport and the Pula bus station. You can also land in Zagreb and then take a domestic flight, bus, or train to Pula. By car from Central Europe, access is via the E751 European route.
Pula's historic center is entirely walkable, as all the main attractions are concentrated in one area. To reach the beaches of Verudela or Stoja, the local bus network is reliable and inexpensive, costing about 1.50 EUR (roughly $1.60) per ticket. Renting a car becomes worthwhile for exploring Cape Kamenjak, a wild nature park located 13 km to the south, or for setting out to discover the hilltop villages of Istria (Motovun, Grožnjan). Note that parking in the city center can be complicated in high season, so look for parking lots on the outskirts.
When to go?
Pula enjoys a pleasant Mediterranean climate with excellent sunshine from March to November. The months of May, June, and September are ideal, with mild temperatures (22-26°C or 72-79°F), warm seas, and manageable crowds. Travelers on a tighter budget will prefer September to November, a period when accommodation prices drop. July and August offer the best of the cultural scene with the Pula Film Festival, but watch out for heatwaves and crowded beaches. Those seeking absolute tranquility should opt for April or October, as swimming is still possible and you will have the city almost to yourself.
Pula is a city with a rich, ancient history that you can discover through its ruins and museum. Even though the city is touristy, I found that it wasn't too crowded, which is really nice for sightseeing. The beaches are also great for relaxing.