Xico, the Mexican Mountain Village Where Mole Reigns Supreme
The smell hits you before you even spot the church bell tower. A complex perfume of chocolate, dried chiles, and warm spices drifts out from kitchens opening right onto the street. Up here in this village clinging to the slopes of the Cofre de Perote, local cooks prep traditional mole xiqueño in massive earthenware vats. Founded back in 1313 under the Nahuatl name Xicochimalco, meaning place of the yellow wax beehives, this Pueblo Mágico in Veracruz stays fiercely loyal to its deep-rooted culinary traditions.
A Mountain Stop for Travelers Craving Slow Travel and Bold Flavors
Perched at 1 320 metres above sea level, this village suits anyone who loves rural Mexico, rich food scenes, and misty cloud forests. Coffee lovers will find themselves in one of the top coffee-growing regions in the country, while hikers will love exploring the nearby waterfalls and river trails.
Xico won't appeal to travelers looking for late-night clubbing or a heavily commercialized tourism setup with multilingual guided tours. Life here runs on local time: a late breakfast, an afternoon break, and a quiet evening stroll around the main square. English is rarely spoken outside a few basic interactions.
A Peaceful Village Where Time Moves Slowly
You can walk the cobblestone streets of the historic center in half a day. Everyday scenes provide a glimpse into authentic daily life, from the burreros delivering milk by donkey in the early morning to street vendors selling fresh flowers and grandmothers pressing tortillas by hand right outside their front doors. The climate stays mild year-round, hovering around 20°C. Pack a light sweater for the evenings and a rain jacket if you visit between June and September.
An Affordable Food Lover's Escape
Xico remains very budget-friendly for US travelers. Expect to spend 450 to 1 200 pesos per night for a hotel room or rustic cabin, and 80 to 150 pesos for a hearty sit-down meal featuring enmoladas and local coffee. Guided outdoor activities like canyoning run around 800 pesos with all safety gear and a local guide included.
Waterfalls Hidden in the Jungle
Just three kilometres outside the center, the Cascada de Texolo plunges more than 20 metres down a sheer rock face. This dramatic waterfall has served as a filming location for Hollywood movies like Romancing the Stone starring Michael Douglas and Clear and Present Danger with Harrison Ford. A viewing platform offers a panoramic look, but the adventurous can follow the marked dirt trail right down to the base of the falls.
The Cascada de la Monja sits a 20-minute walk past Texolo, featuring a clear natural pool where swimming is permitted. The trail winds through working coffee and banana plantations. Access to the waterfalls is free, though there is a small fee to park your car.
Friendly tip: visit during the rainy season between June and September to see the waterfalls roaring at full power. The water flow drops significantly during the drier months of the year.
Mole Xiqueño: More Than Just a Dish, It's an Identity
The local mole in Xico stands out for its sweeter flavor profile. Sweeter than its famous cousin from Puebla, it blends over 25 ingredients including mulato and pasilla chiles, chocolate, almonds, peanuts, sesame seeds, and sometimes plantain or artisanal bread. The Mole Xiqueño factory produces close to 500 000 kilos of paste every year.
To try the mole done right, pull up a chair at La Tía Celsa for a homemade family recipe, or head to the restaurant Acamalin for enchiladas smothered in thick sauce. The tamales canarios, made with butter and rice flour, are another local specialty worth seeking out. On chilly mornings, a bowl of sopa de xonequi, a bean broth seasoned with a wild local herb, warms you right up.
Coffee and Local Drinks
The surrounding hills produce sought-after high-altitude arabica coffee. Several local roasters sell bags of beans directly out of shops along Avenida Miguel Hidalgo. If you are looking for a local drink to try, ask for mora, a moonshine infused with wild blackberries, or verde xiqueño, an herbal digestif made with regional plants.
The Festival of Magdalena: When the Village Turns Into an Arena
Every year from July 15 to 23, Xico celebrates Santa María Magdalena with incredible devotion. On July 19, residents create an enormous tapete de aserrín, a colorful carpet made of dyed sawdust, stretching down the entire length of the main avenue. The following day, a giant floral arch built from the delicate flor de cucharilla is carried in a massive procession up to the church.
The peak of the festival happens on July 22 with the Xiqueñada, where loose bulls are run through a cordoned-off street in a style reminiscent of the running of the bulls in Pamplona. The event draws tens of thousands of visitors, so you need to book your lodging months in advance if you want to be there.
The Patio de las Palomas displays more than 600 embroidered dresses gifted to the patron saint since 1898. Meanwhile, the Museo del Danzante Xiqueño showcases the elaborate carved wooden masks and costumes worn by the payasos, traditional clowns who dance through the streets during festivals while clicking wooden castanets.
Where to Eat and Drink in Xico
The municipal mercadito in Xico is the best spot in town for a traditional breakfast: picaditas topped with refried beans, chiles rellenos, or enmoladas served alongside a mug of locally roasted coffee. For a sit-down meal, Mesón Xiqueño and El Campanario right on the main avenue serve classic regional dishes inside old colonial dining rooms.
Down by the Coyopolan River, the restaurant at the Hôtel Coyopolan features a massive menu with over 400 options, specializing in fresh trout prepared in dozens of different styles. On a tighter budget, El Chinini serves casual street snacks with a great view of the surrounding mountains.
Where to Stay in Xico and Nearby
The Hôtel Agua Bendita offers private cabins equipped with fireplaces and hot tubs nestled in lush greenery. Right in the middle of town, the Posada Los Naranjos provides clean, straightforward rooms starting around 450 pesos. For a true nature retreat, timber cabins out near the waterfall like Rincón de Texolo let you fall asleep to the sound of rushing water.
Accommodation options expand significantly in Coatepec, a neighboring Pueblo Mágico just six kilometres away. Places like Mesón del Alférez and Hotel Casa Real del Café offer atmospheric rooms inside restored historic townhouses while keeping both towns within easy reach.
How to Get There and Get Around
From Mexico City, catch an ADO long-distance bus headed to Xalapa. The trip takes about 4 to 5 hours and costs between 400 and 600 pesos. Once you arrive in Xalapa, shared local passenger vans known as combis leave regularly from Parque Revolución. The ride takes 30 minutes and costs roughly 20 pesos. Taking a taxi directly from Xalapa will run you about 200 pesos.
If you are driving from Mexico City, take the toll highway toward Puebla and continue on to Xalapa, a drive of about 4 hours. From the port city of Veracruz, it is a 2-hour drive inland. There is no direct service from North America to Veracruz state: land in Mexico City, then either fly on to Xalapa with Aeroméxico or take the bus.
Once you are in Xico, everything in the historic center is easily walkable. If you want to visit the waterfalls without walking, a taxi from the main square costs 50 to 80 pesos one way.
When to go
The months from November to May offer the most reliable weather with dry conditions and comfortable daytime temperatures. The festival of Magdalena from July 15 to 23 completely transforms the village and requires planning your lodging far in advance. You may want to skip September and October if you prefer to avoid heavy downpours and thick mountain fog.
Xico is really a great starting point for discovering coffee farming. There are fields all around the town, hidden in the middle of banana trees. Plenty of walks nearby.