I took a little break from my schedule and, following a gift for a happy occasion, found myself on a plane headed to Ireland for a one-week road trip with homestay accommodations.
Road trip with homestay accommodations
I was gifted an 8-day, 7-night road trip from Dublin to Dublin, passing through the Connemara and Kerry regions, as well as the city of Kilkenny. The concept was simple: we had a car at our disposal, and each evening, we were expected at the homes of local Irish hosts who provided our lodging (in the Bed & Breakfast style).
If you want information on how to organize this type of trip, you can take a look at the agency's website. It was Evaneos, whose Ireland section is accessible via this link. The unique thing about Evaneos is that the site allows you to choose a local agency or a local guide and chat directly with that professional to put together a strictly custom-made itinerary.
This company is well-known to fans of travel in Ireland and around the world because they organize many trips that allow for real contact with locals. Another big advantage: you benefit from insurance and guarantees that secure your plans! For my part, I didn't need this assistance so I didn't test it, but it seems quite serious. Plus, it’s quite reassuring for those who don't know the destination country or don't speak the language well.
While chatting with the local agency that took care of us, we realized the possibilities were endless. For example, we could have left from France with our own car by taking a car ferry. We could have also alternated between homestays, "classic" hotels, and charming boutique accommodations... In short, I’m explaining all this so you understand it's possible, but we loved our gift exactly as it was, so we wouldn't have changed a thing :)
Transport and getting around
According to the friends who gave us this gift, the price of the plane ticket is not included in the package. In any case, we flew on Aer Lingus. I don't know the price that was paid. The best thing to do is to use a flight comparison tool before booking.
Administrative formalities are simplified by membership in the European Union: you only need to bring a valid national identity card or passport, as a visa is only required for non-EU nationals. To drive there, you will need to produce and carry your valid driver's license and be able to present all vehicle documents in case of a traffic stop (insurance, registration).
Regarding driving, it’s no myth: the small national roads aren't always well-marked, to say the least... We still found ourselves on a road that didn't exist on any map twice, without finding any road signs. Fortunately, the kindness of the locals allowed us to manage and find the right direction. In the worst-case scenario, telephone support is there for that. Be careful, driving in Ireland is on the left. Expect a few minutes of adjustment, but you should get the hang of it quickly.
To tell you a bit about my trip, I'll keep it simple and talk about what I did, day by day:
Dublin
For the car, no worries to have: you pick it up as you leave the plane, no need to exit the airport. All the info is given to you before departure, you can't go wrong, at least if you travel like I did with this tour operator.
For those who love city life, take advantage of it: Dublin is the only real big city in Ireland. As the historical and cultural heart, it is the economic engine of the country. Built around the Liffey, a river that cuts through it and opens it to the sea, it offers a total change of scenery from the very beginning of your stay, especially with its superb Georgian houses with colorful doors and facades.
It lived up to its reputation: this cosmopolitan city is in perpetual motion. All the shops open on Sundays, the locals are always out and about, and there is almost always something going on.
Among the must-sees, I would invite you to go admire Trinity College, which is the oldest university in Ireland. Founded in the 16th century, it has seen several illustrious students pass through: Bram Stoker, Isaac Newton, Oscar Wilde, and even Samuel Beckett. The feeling of calm that will wash over you when you enter the grounds will be intense and almost jarring compared to the frantic activity of the city. The old buildings that make it up give the place a bit of austerity, though it's brightened up by the red bricks covering some of the walls.
Besides the chapel and the campanile, don't forget to go see the very famous Old Library, which contains the no less famous Book of Kells, considered the most beautiful illuminated manuscript in the world, nothing less! Other equally fabulous works are on display. And if you want to get dizzy, take a look inside the Long Room, where more than 200,000 works, including an original copy of the Proclamation of the Irish Republic, are archived. For your info, there is an entrance fee for the Old Library. It is open all year round except during the Christmas holidays.
Also worth visiting: Dublin Castle, whose Round Tower is the only tower dating from its construction, namely the beginning of the 13th century. The various renovations that have followed since have gotten the better of the rest of the original building. This castle has always been important in the history of Dublin, as it was the official residence of the British monarchs until 1922. Today, the castle no longer displays the decapitated heads of its enemies. On the contrary, it lent one of its rooms to sign the peace agreements with Northern Ireland in 1998, and it is also the site of the inauguration of the President of the Irish Republic. It is open to the public every day, but with different hours on Sundays and public holidays. The tour of the interior rooms is also worth the detour.
You also won't be able to miss St. Patrick's Cathedral, which is located not far from Christ Church Cathedral. This gray stone building faces red brick houses. The contrast is surprising, especially if, like me, you visit in the rain. Built starting in the 12th century, it is said to have been built on the site of the church where St. Patrick baptized the first believers. You might be quite surprised to see several references to Jonathan Swift in this building. The author of Gulliver's Travels was actually the dean of this major Protestant place of worship. He is, in fact, buried there.
If you wish to soak up Celtic culture, go take a tour of the National Museum (the one on Kildare Street, not the one at Collins Barracks, which is devoted to decorative arts and the economic history of Ireland). In addition to impressive collections of prehistoric objects and a section devoted to the Vikings, there are superb Celtic jewels. The museum helps you travel back in time a bit, as there is also an exhibition on the struggle for independence.
And since we're talking about museums, you can head toward the banks of the Liffey and go see the Guinness Storehouse, which traces the history of Arthur Guinness and his famous beer inside the premises that used to serve as the company's warehouse. You also learn that he did a lot for the city, notably by financing the renovations of St. Patrick's Cathedral or by building housing for the destitute. Be careful, however, the visit is expensive (around 15 euros), even if a pint of Guinness is included.
For the rest, and to continue on the theme of beer, stop in one of the many pubs in Temple Bar, the liveliest district in the city. You'll have plenty of choices for fun: go have a drink at the Brazen Head, the oldest pub in Dublin, or at Temple Bar, for example.
The city is also rich in other buildings, such as the grand covered market (Dublin Market), the Four Courts, etc...
You won't have to walk much to see it all!
The Connemara region
After heading toward Galway, on the western side of Dublin, you arrive in a wild region with moors as far as the eye can see. The feeling of being frozen in time is very strong, especially because it is the largest region where Gaelic (or Gallic, for the locals) is still spoken.
The wild beauty of nature is truly breathtaking; the wind that sweeps across the moors is heady. Small meadows enclosed by stone walls hold the famous Connemara ponies, which are the only ones to have adapted to the harsh local climate.
The landscape is truly surprising: near the coastline, you first discover rugged terrain where the mountains and the sea seem to be one. The further you go inland, the more you get the feeling that nature has reclaimed its rights, as everything seems hostile, harsh, and not very conducive to the development of civilization. In any case, it invites meditation...
Obviously, if you can, pass by Lough Corrib or the "Twelve Bens" (the twelve peaks) which are at the heart of the region. The streams that flow from them end up forming the lakes that you can then admire almost everywhere.
The Kerry region
If I had already been impressed by the landscapes of Connemara, I was dazzled by those of Kerry.
By following the road nicknamed "the Ring of Kerry", you cover about 125 miles (200 km) through grandiose sites. You will then circle the Iveragh Peninsula.
During our evening stay, our hosts explained to us that there were many hikes possible in Ireland, and especially in their region. For enthusiasts and good walkers, there are 125 miles (200 km) of trail (as much as by car) waiting for you on the "Kerry Way"!!
The mountains plunge into the ocean, the moors are dotted with thistles, pine trees colonize an entire valley, and you also discover sandy beaches... In short, you will find all the postcard landscapes and all the imagery one has of Ireland. It is simply fantastic.
But don't expect to be alone in enjoying it: tourists are very numerous there, especially in the parking areas set up all along the road for stopping and taking photos.
The places are so beautiful that I wouldn't even know what to advise you: at every turn, you discover a spot even more beautiful than the last! If you have time, pass by the Dingle Peninsula and give yourself time to delve deeper into the visit of Killarney National Park.
Kilkenny
Located southwest of Dublin, the medieval city of Kilkenny is renowned for its red ale, its cathedral, and its castle.
Go take a tour of the oldest brewery in Ireland on the site of St. Francis Abbey. The city is really worth a stroll: the 12th-century fortified castle is very impressive, and the general atmosphere plunges you into medieval Ireland. But you also find many Celtic traces and runes everywhere. The cemeteries, in particular, immerse you in the past with their steles and their very distinctive crosses.
This city allowed us to take a final mental snapshot before heading back toward Dublin and France. There is an incredible festive atmosphere there that gave us the feeling of getting a bit closer to the Irish spirit.
In any case, I really recommend this type of trip: it offers a real taste of authenticity, encounters with locals, and gives you the impression of having learned a lot about the country. And, just for the beauty of the landscapes and the richness of the country's history, I really invite you to go take a look.
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