Visiting Sardinia
Sardinia is bigger than Sicily in seaside reputation and smaller in people: one million six hundred thousand inhabitants across twenty-four thousand square kilometres, the lowest density in Italy after Aosta Valley. That emptiness is what explains the beaches.
The two ends share the visitors: Villasimius and Costa Rei in the south-east, Stintino and Santa Teresa Gallura in the north. Between them lies the interior, which you will cross almost alone.
You will love it if
- You want Caribbean water a short flight from home
- A civilisation whose language nobody can read intrigues you
- You come in June or September, when the sea is already warm
Look elsewhere if
- You would rather not rent a car: the island cannot be crossed any other way
- You come in August: prices double and the coves fill up by 9am
- You are after art cities: there is one, and it is Cagliari
The must-sees
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1 Su Nuraxi di Barumini +1 rec
The best preserved nuraghe on the island, a truncated cone tower from the 17th century BC surrounded by a stone village. Sardinia holds some seven thousand of them, built without mortar by a civilisation that left no readable text behind.
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2 Porto Giunco beach +6 recs
A tongue of sand so white it turns pink against the light, with the Mediterranean on one side and a salt lagoon on the other. The flamingos stay on the lagoon, thirty metres from the towels, and they do not move.
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At the far north-west, facing the Aragonese tower and the reefs of Capo Falcone, pale sand runs out for two hundred metres. Access is capped by a paid daily quota, introduced once the crowds began carrying the sand away.
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4 San Saturnino basilica +8 recs
Seventeen centuries under a bare brick dome, a few metres from the Villanova traffic: this is the oldest Christian building in Cagliari, and one of the oldest in the western Mediterranean.
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5 La Maddalena archipelago national park
Sixty granite islands and islets in the north-east, reached by boat from Palau. Moorings are regulated and the finest beaches run a quota: that is the price of their condition, and it is booked online weeks ahead.
The classic mistake
Do not book a single base for the whole island. Villasimius and Stintino are four hours apart by road, with no motorway between them. For one week, stay at one end; for two, split the trip in two.
Our itineraries in Sardinia
| Length | Route | What you see |
|---|---|---|
| 1 week | Cagliari and the south-east | Porto Giunco, Costa Rei, the capital |
| 1 week | The north: Stintino and Gallura | La Pelosa, La Maddalena |
| 10 days | Cagliari › Barumini › the north | Both coasts, and the nuraghi in between |
The road that climbs from south to north through the interior passes Barumini and crosses the Marmilla, a plateau of hills and wheat nobody photographs. It is the only way to see something other than the coast, and it costs you one hour of detour.
Count four hours between the two ends, five with a stop. Average speed is low: two-lane roads, villages to drive through, and sheep that have right of way in practice.
When to visit Sardinia
| Rating | Season | Weather | Crowds and prices |
|---|---|---|---|
| June and September | 25 to 29 °C, sea at 23 | Moderate, the best trade-off | |
| August | 30 to 35 °C, spells of mistral | Italian peak, prices doubled | |
| May and October | 20 to 25 °C, sea at 19 | Light, ideal for walking | |
| November to April | 12 to 18 °C, short showers | Resorts close, Cagliari lives on |
Our advice
Italians take their holidays in the second and third weeks of August, and the island tips over: ferries sell out, rentals triple and the coves with limited parking fill before nine in the morning. The first half of June gives you the same sea for a third of the price.
Getting to Sardinia
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1 By plane The quickest
Ryanair and easyJet fly from London, Manchester and Dublin to Cagliari, Olbia and Alghero, mostly from April to October, in about three hours. Cagliari serves the south, Olbia the north: pick the airport that matches your coast.
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2 By boat With your car
if you are already in Italy, night ferries link Genoa, Livorno and Civitavecchia to Porto Torres, Olbia and Cagliari, with your car on board. Ten to thirteen hours, cabins available, and you wake up on the island.
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3 By car On the island
essential here: buses connect the towns but not a single cove, and there is no train worth the traveller's time. Rent at the airport and book ahead for July, when the fleet runs out.
From Santa Teresa Gallura, Bonifacio is a fifty-minute crossing away: Corsica and Sardinia string together easily, and it is a route you would not think of on your own.
Getting around Sardinia
Cagliari is walkable, from the port up to the Castello quarter, with a public lift for the climb. Everywhere else you will need a car: the finest beaches sit at the end of two or three kilometres of dirt track.
Worth knowing
Do not take sand or pebbles home: it is an offence in Sardinia, fined up to three thousand euros, and airport checks are real. Several beaches also run a paid daily quota, La Pelosa among them: the booking is made online, not at the gate.
What to eat in Sardinia
- Pane carasau: a flatbread baked twice, thin as paper, that keeps for months. Born for shepherds who left for weeks at a time, and still on every table.
- Culurgiones: ravioli closed by hand in a wheat-ear seam, filled with potato, pecorino and mint. The seam is counted in stitches, and a good cook makes thirteen.
- Porceddu: suckling pig roasted on a spit over myrtle wood, crackling skin and melting meat. The feast dish, ordered the day before in the agriturismi.
- Bottarga: grey mullet roe, dried and pressed, grated over spaghetti with breadcrumbs. Cabras produces most of it, and it is the most recognisable taste on the island.
- Pecorino sardo and fiore sardo: the second smoked and hard-aged, long used as a shepherd's wage. Served with bitter strawberry-tree honey, which exists nowhere else.
- Seadas: a fried pastry filled with fresh cheese and lemon, poured over with honey. Cheese for pudding, and it works.
- Mirto: myrtle berry liqueur, served ice cold after the meal. Red from the berries, white from the leaves, and every family swears theirs is the right one.
The agriturismi of the interior serve a single set menu of six or seven courses, with no card and no choice, for a fixed price. It is the best table on the island and the cheapest, provided you book and arrive without having had lunch. Set the whole evening aside.
Where to stay in Sardinia
| Area | What it is for | Worth knowing |
|---|---|---|
| Villasimius | Porto Giunco, Punta Molentis | Four thousand residents, tens of thousands in summer |
| Costa Rei | Eight kilometres of sand, families | Purpose-built, quiet, little going on at night |
| Cagliari | San Saturnino, market, airport | The only real city, alive all year |
| Stintino | La Pelosa, Asinara | Narrow peninsula, full in August |
| Santa Teresa Gallura | La Maddalena, Corsica opposite | Granite and wind, good value off season |
The agriturismi inland cost half what the seafront charges and sit twenty minutes from the beaches: that is the trade-off Italians make themselves, and you will gain by it too.
At Badesi, on the north coast, the maquis runs down to the dunes and the wind never drops: it is a kitesurfing base, and one of the few beaches on the island that stays liveable in August.
How much does a trip in Sardinia cost?
| Style | Length | Budget per person |
|---|---|---|
| Tight (campsite, shared car, markets) | 7 days | 400 to 600 € |
| Comfortable (hotel, car, restaurants) | 7 days | 900 to 1,400 € |
| High (seafront, boat, name tables) | 7 days | 2,500 to 4,000 € |
- June rather than August: the same rental costs three times less, for a sea at 23 °C and coves you can actually park at.
- The agriturismi: thirty to forty euros for a six-course set menu, wine included, against twice that on the seafront for less.
- Beaches without a quota: the south-eastern coves are free and often empty on weekdays, while La Pelosa is paid and booked.
- The San Benedetto market in Cagliari: the largest covered market in Italy, where you have lunch for five euros.
- A car outside July and August: the same model costs a third, and the fleet is not sold out.
Traditions and way of life in Sardinia
The nuraghi are the island's riddle: seven thousand dry-stone towers, raised between 1800 and 700 BC by a civilisation that left neither readable writing nor a name for itself. Su Nuraxi is the only one you can visit and still understand what you are looking at.
Sardinian is not an Italian dialect but a Romance language of its own, the closest to Latin according to linguists, and a million people still speak it. The bilingual road signs are not decoration.
Two useful habits. Inland, what is offered is not refused: take the glass of mirto or the piece of pane carasau even without appetite, because a refusal reads as distance.
And the hours: everything closes between 1pm and 4.30pm, shops included, and restaurants do not open before 8pm. Turn up at noon sharp and you will find half the kitchens still cold.