Where to stay in the Costa Smeralda: the 3 areas to know in 2026
On the Costa Smeralda, three questions decide your base: the beach, the archipelago or the plane. The Arzachena coast, from Porto Cervo to Cannigione, has the turquoise coves and the nightlife. Palau and La Maddalena live to the rhythm of the boats heading for the islands. Olbia, finally, has the airport, the ferries and real-town prices.
In Olbia, a good room in town costs around $135*, a hotel with a pool near the Arzachena beaches often comes to about $340* in summer, and the grand hotels of Porto Cervo top $1,130* a night in August. The three areas below all fit within a radius of fifty kilometres.
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One base or several?
The coast can be driven in under an hour: one base is enough, two if you want to live the archipelago up close.
- A long weekend: A single base, on the Arzachena coast: the Capriccioli beaches, the piazzetta and a boat trip.
- Four or five days: A single base, in Cannigione or Baja Sardinia: the coast to the south, Palau and the archipelago to the north.
- One week: Two bases: four nights on the Arzachena coast, then three in Palau or La Maddalena for the islands.
How much driving between two bases?
Times given by car, outside August traffic jams. The ferry links Palau to La Maddalena in twenty minutes, all day long.
| Route | Driving time | Good to know |
|---|---|---|
| Olbia airport → Olbia | 10 min | via the airport road |
| Olbia airport → Porto Rotondo | 25 min | along the coast |
| Olbia airport → Porto Cervo | 40 min | via the SP59 |
| Porto Cervo → Baja Sardinia | 15 min | along the coast |
| Baja Sardinia → Cannigione | 15 min | via the SP59 |
| Cannigione → Palau | 20 min | via the SS125 |
| Palau → La Maddalena | 20 min | by ferry |
| Olbia → Golfo Aranci | 25 min | along the coast |
At a glance: our picks by traveller type
Pick the profile that fits you and go straight to the recommended area.
Map of the areas in the Costa Smeralda
See how the areas sit relative to one another before choosing your base. Click a name to jump to its description.
Porto Cervo, Baja Sardinia and Cannigione The Arzachena coast: Porto Cervo, Cala di Volpe, Capriccioli, Baja Sardinia, Cannigione and the village of San Pantaleo
for the finest beaches and the nightlife
The heart of the Costa Smeralda. Around Porto Cervo, the coves of Capriccioli, the Prince and Romazzino follow one another between the rocks, and the piazzetta comes alive at night. Further north, Baja Sardinia and Cannigione are simpler and more family-friendly, with boat departures for the archipelago. In the hills, San Pantaleo keeps its granite and its Thursday market. The downside: prices soar in August, and a car is essential.
Where to stay in this area
Hotel Cala di Volpe Luxury
The coast's legendary grand hotel, built like a fishing village at the head of Cala di Volpe bay, with its private beach.
Hotel Le Ginestre Mid-range
Flowering gardens above the Gulf of Pevero, with two pools and a beach, three minutes from Porto Cervo.
Moma Hotel Cannigione Mid-range
A small hilltop hotel with a pool and views over Cannigione bay, peaceful yet close to the beaches.
AHR Baja Hotel & Spa Cannigione Mid-range
In the centre of Cannigione, with a large pool and a spa, near the harbour where boats leave for the archipelago.
Pros
- The finest beaches on the coast
- The piazzetta and the nightlife
Cons
- The island's highest prices in August
- A car for every beach
Palau and La Maddalena Palau, Capo d'Orso, Porto Pollo and the La Maddalena archipelago with Caprera
for the archipelago, the boats and the islands
The gateway to the archipelago. Palau is a small harbour where ferries leave for La Maddalena every twenty minutes, along with the boats that tour the islands. Opposite, the town of La Maddalena has its lanes, its market and the bridge to Caprera, Garibaldi's house and its coves. The downside: you are far from Porto Cervo's nightlife, and the wind blows hard at Porto Pollo.
What to see and do in this area
Where to stay in this area
Hotel La Roccia Mid-range
In the centre of Palau, a few minutes' walk from the harbour and the ferries to La Maddalena, with a generous breakfast.
Hotel Excelsior Mid-range
In the heart of La Maddalena town, two minutes from the landing stage, with rooms overlooking the harbour.
Pros
- The islands by boat at the foot of your hotel
- Gentler prices than on the coast
Cons
- Far from Porto Cervo's nightlife
- Strong wind on some days
Olbia, Porto Rotondo and Golfo Aranci Olbia and its old town, Porto Rotondo, Pittulongu and the Golfo Aranci peninsula
for prices, the airport and a real town
The gateway. Olbia has the airport, the ferry port and a lively centre, with its trattorias and its corso. To the north, Porto Rotondo is the coast's other chic village, around its marina; to the east, Golfo Aranci has its beaches and Capo Figari. The downside: the finest coves of Arzachena are forty minutes' drive away.
Where to stay in this area
Hotel Panorama Mid-range
In the heart of Olbia old town, with a rooftop terrace overlooking the roofs and the gulf.
Pros
- The gentlest prices on the coast
- The airport and ferries ten minutes away
Cons
- The Arzachena coves forty minutes away
- A town more practical than charming
Our tips for booking the right place
- Avoid August: In August, prices double, roads jam and the famous beaches overflow from morning. In June and September the sea is already warm, and you often pay half as much for the same room.
- Pick a hotel with parking: The beaches have paying car parks that fill fast, and the villages have few spaces. A hotel with parking, ideally near a cove, spares you circling every morning.
- Stay inland: The agriturismi in the hills of Arzachena and San Pantaleo cost far less than the coastal hotels, serve farmhouse food and are only a quarter of an hour from the beaches.
- Booking in Porto Cervo in August without a car: every beach will cost you a taxi.
- Staying in Olbia for a beach week: the finest coves are forty minutes away every morning.
- Coming out of season without checking: from October to April, many hotels and restaurants close.
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