Peru Off the Beaten Path: From Huancayo to Huancavelica

Peru has become one of South America's top travel destinations, largely thanks to its iconic Inca and pre-Inca sites like Machu Picchu, Nazca, the city of Cuzco, and the shores of Lake Titicaca, among others. But beyond the upscale neighborhoods of Lima and the well-trodden tourist trail, there are regions that remain blissfully off the beaten path, and they are absolutely worth a look.

Let's take a little trip into the heart of Peru, through the provinces of Huancavelica and Junin, where coffee is grown and fruit grows in abundance!

Huancayo, the world capital of Huaylarsh!

If you're staying in Lima and want to head to Huancayo, the capital of Junin province and the birthplace of Huaylarsh, a traditional Peruvian dance, you can catch a bus from the Yerbateros terminal (Terminal Molina; expect an overnight trip of about eight hours). However, nothing beats the journey aboard the Tren de la Sierra. You'll conquer the Andes, reaching altitudes of up to 4,830 meters (expect a 12-hour ride, costing 190 soles, or about €52). It’s the perfect way to get a taste of the region. Just a heads-up: this train line is sometimes closed due to landslides.

Once you arrive in Huancayo, you won't have any trouble finding a budget-friendly hotel. The cheapest spots, offering a double room with a TV and private shower, go for about 40 soles (€11) in the El Tambo district, just a five-minute taxi ride from the city center. At first glance, Huancayo can feel a bit cold and not particularly welcoming, but if you take the time to wander, you'll discover some real gems:

• Plaza Constitucion: The heart of the city, where locals of all ages gather. The square is buzzing from morning till night, with people chatting on the many benches or by the corner fountain.
• Calle Puno: From the plaza, take a stroll down Calle Puno to find the city's nightlife. Head to Antojitos (the bar at the corner of Arequipa and Puno) to dance to traditional music until the early hours, you might even catch some Huaylarsh, a local folk dance. Be sure to try the local drink: Calentito.
• Parque Huamanmarca: The "political" square of Huancayo, home to the City Hall and the regional government.
• Grab a calentito at the cultural bar ImaginArte (corner of Ancash and Puno) and take some time to listen to the storytelling!
• The market: The market in Huancayo is massive! (corner of Mantaro/Cajamarca). Head there for a quick bite, to pick up some avocados, or just about anything else. They really have it all!

Around Huancayo:

• Hiking and high-altitude enthusiasts will love the excursion to the Huayatapallana glacier (one hour from Huancayo), sitting at over 5,000 meters. It’s a six-to-seven-hour hike, so pack a good raincoat, a warm sweater, plenty of water, and most importantly... coca leaves to help with altitude sickness! You’ll be walking among llamas, lagoons, and clouds. An experience not to be missed!

• Trout lovers can head to Ingenio to enjoy freshly caught trout prepared every way imaginable (ceviche, chicharron, a la parilla...). It’s the perfect spot for a weekend outing with friends or family, especially to try local games like El Sapo or share a few laughs over a game of volleyball. You can also visit the fish farms located right next to the dozen or so restaurants.

• Torre-Torre: On the outskirts of town, past the zoo, head to Torre-Torre to take in the view of the valley from up high. At Torre-Torre, you'll see rock formations carved by erosion, a dramatic, almost apocalyptic sight with the city of Huancayo in the background. It’s the perfect place to sip some maté and reflect!

Hit the road to La Merced and the warmth of the jungle!

The town of La Merced is a four-hour minibus ride from Huancayo. This is the selva (jungle), with a tropical climate and scenery that’s a complete change of pace! They produce coffee here (the best in the world, according to the locals, of course!) and you’ll find all kinds of fruits and vegetables: guanabana, bananas, mangoes...

The town is quite small and tucked away in a valley. The locals are incredibly warm and always ready to help (especially if you need a ride on one of their awesome moto-taxis!).

There isn't a ton to do in La Merced itself, but the town is the perfect jumping-off point for trips to:

• Oxapampa: A town founded by a German community about a hundred years ago. You’ll find Swiss-German style chalets and cuisine!
• Countless natural waterfalls that are rarely crowded, perfect for a refreshing dip!
• Artisan markets where you can find local specialties like lucky bracelets made from huayruro seeds, which come from a tree native to the region.

From Huancayo, head toward Lircay and the province of Huancavelica!

From Huancayo, you can also head to the neighboring province of Huancavelica. While it’s considered one of the poorest in the country, the land is rich in natural resources. The landscape is similar to Junin, but traveling through these magnificent mountains is definitely worth the trip!

Stop by Lircay, a small mining town in the middle of nowhere, and head to the market to try some delicious llama steak!

Culinary specialties of Junin

It’s hard to write about this central region of Peru without mentioning the food! While Peruvian cuisine is world-renowned for its diversity and flavor, you certainly won't be disappointed in Huancayo:

• Pachamanca: Meat cooked underground and perfectly seasoned, served with potatoes and huancaina sauce.
• Ceviche de trucha: Try this twist on the classic coastal dish, using trout "cooked" in lime juice, served with sweet potato and salad.
• Cuy: The local staple! Cuy is actually guinea pig. Served with spicy aji sauce, rice, and potatoes, it’s a dish often reserved for festive occasions.
• Anticuchos: Delicious beef heart skewers grilled over a wood fire. A real treat!
• Empanadas de lomo saltado: Famous across the continent, they are especially hearty and delicious in Huancayo. Lomo saltado is beef sautéed with caramelized onions.
• Fruit juices! Oh, the juices! No need to tell you that the passion fruit and guanabana juices are the best... or is there?

If you're heading to Peru, make sure to visit Huancayo, hopefully, we'll see you there!