My 12-Day Myanmar Itinerary

Prologue

I flew from Paris to Yangon with Cathay Pacific, the Hong Kong-based airline, with a layover in Hong Kong. I had found deals with "only" a 4-hour layover, but since I was already there, I decided to choose a flight with a longer stopover so I could go explore HK for a bit. It cut my time in Myanmar (also known as Burma) a little short, but it also let me discover a really cool city! After that quick but intense detour, I finally arrived late at night in Yangon, formerly known as Rangoon. The story of my trip begins with my first full day in the country's economic capital.

Day 1: Yangon

I started with the city's must-see, the Shwedagon Pagoda. I’ve seen plenty of pagodas, but never any this big, beautiful, and practically devoid of tourists! I then continued on foot (okay, it was a pretty long walk!) to get to the Sule Pagoda, wandering through the small streets and markets of the neighborhood along the way. I was much less impressed by this one, even if Barack Obama did visit it! The only unique thing about it for me was that it sits right in the middle of a city roundabout, but it didn't really leave a lasting impression otherwise.

That didn't stop me from heading to the next pagoda, Botahtaung. It doesn't look like much from the outside and almost looks like a construction site, but what makes it worth it is getting to go inside the stupa with its golden, ornate walls. The stupa houses a shrine containing strands of Buddha's hair…

I kept wandering, passing quickly by Kandawgyi Lake. I then headed back to the hotel to pack my things for the night bus, knowing that traffic in Yangon is a nightmare. I caught a 7:00 PM night bus to Kalaw.

Days 2-3-4: From Kalaw to Inle

The bus arrived at 5:00 AM; everything was closed, and I was starting to lose hope of finding a place to take a nap and a shower! I found a café that was open and grabbed a bite while waiting for the sun to rise. I finally found a place willing to rent me a room (pre-used, but hey, for €3…). The reason I was so desperate for a shower was that I was starting a 3-day trek that same morning, without really knowing what the hygiene conditions would be like! Around 9:00 AM, I met up with the organization that Evaneos had booked for my 3-day, 2-night trek to Inle Lake.

The trek itself was pretty nice; a few climbs that were a bit tiring for those who aren't in shape, but with regular enough breaks to keep going. For about 30 euros, we had meals included and stayed in a homestay. That was part of the adventure, too! Sleeping on "mattresses" practically on the floor with your group, showering with a bucket of water and a bowl, and, of course, three days of squat toilets. The meals were honestly good, I have to say!

The scenery was different each of the three days, and I especially enjoyed it in the light of dawn or sunset. On the third day, after lunch, we were taken by boat to the village of Nyaung Shwe. This ride on Inle Lake allowed us to enjoy the landscape and the fishermen balancing at the end of their boats.

So, we had the end of the day to enjoy the village, after a long hot shower, of course, and a change of shoes! Plus, I found a place to get a massage for less than €10 an hour… I couldn't resist, obviously!

Day 5: Nyaung Shwe

Since I had arrived by boat, I wasn't really in the mood to rent another one just to see the fishermen again, even if it is THE thing to see at Inle Lake. But after 3 intense days, a more relaxed day was welcome. So I took the opportunity to walk around the village, visit the market, read by the water, have a nice meal at a restaurant, etc. And why not another massage! In the evening, I caught another night bus (departing at 8:00 PM) to head to Mandalay.

Days 6-7: Mandalay

Another early arrival, around 2:15 AM. After a short night, I got up to hire a motorbike driver to do the "3-city tour" offered everywhere: Sagaing, Amarapura, and Inwa (also called Ava). Being on my own, I really liked this way of getting around to sightsee. My driver started with a Mandalay essential, the Mahamuni Temple, which houses a large, fully gilded Buddha.

Next, we headed toward Sagaing, where I had the pleasure of climbing 375 steps to reach one of the many temples in the area and get a superb view of the surroundings. It wasn't Bagan, but there were truly temples and pagodas everywhere!

After a lunch break, we set off for Inwa. Most people hire a small horse-drawn carriage, but I personally preferred to pay a little extra to continue by motorbike. More comfortable! We visited various temples and buildings; it’s really pretty, even if there were a few more tourists in that area. To finish, we headed toward Amarapura and the famous U-Bein Bridge. It's all wood, and we crossed it to… I’m not really sure why, because there wasn't anything very interesting on the other side! But on the way back, halfway across, I stopped at a café by the water to enjoy the sunset while sipping a delicious avocado juice. A beautiful way to end the day on a high note!

The next day, I took the boat to Mingun, another must in the region. There, you can see the unfinished Pa Hto Taw Gyi temple (when you see the size of the rock, I understand why they gave up halfway through!). You can climb it using a staircase, but to get all the way to the top, you have to be a bit more of a daredevil, though it is doable (but not recommended by the authorities!). From the top, you can see the beautiful, all-white Mya Thein Tan Pagoda. That was actually our next stop, after a refreshing watermelon break and a look at the Mingun Bell.

Once our visit was complete and perhaps with a few purchases in hand, the boat took us back to Mandalay. After lunch and a short nap, I went out to see a bit more: the Kuthodaw Pagoda first, which houses hundreds of steles with sacred texts, each under its own little stupa. Then other temples nearby, before heading up Mandalay Hill on a scooter. Well, the sunset was average (the sky wasn't clear enough), but at least I went!

Day 8: From Mandalay to Bagan

To avoid taking another night bus (or even a day bus!), I treated myself to a little cruise on the Irrawaddy River with the company Myanmar River Cruise, on the RV Panorama boat. Very comfortable, and we were lucky enough to be only 12 people on the boat! We were treated to breakfast on the deck during the sunrise.

In the late morning, we stopped at a small village where we could see peanut fields and hat-making, escorted by all the local children, each more adorable than the last. Lunch was also included, while waiting for a presentation on Myanmar culture, covering everything from how to wear a longyi to "makeup" with thanakha, and a tasting of tea leaf salad (a treat!). Then we finally arrived in Bagan at the end of the day.

Days 9-10-11: Bagan

Days start early in Bagan if you want to enjoy the sunrise from the temples! So at 5:30 AM, I headed out to pick up my ebike (a type of scooter) that I’d rented for the day to get to the Bulethi temple. The sunrise wasn't breathtaking, but I hadn't dared to venture further on this first day (after a fall in the sand with said ebike!).

You can then visit the temples in the beautiful light, and later with hot air balloons in the background. There are so many to visit! Before leaving, I had already noted down a few temples not to be missed and their locations on Google Maps, which was really useful! I took a nap break in the afternoon before heading back out to see the sunset at another temple. My favorite at the end of the day was Myauk Guni: a beautiful view and not as overrun as Bulethi or Shwesandaw!

On the second day, I watched the sunrise at Shwesandaw (but you have to arrive early to get a good spot given the crowds!). This time, I stayed at the top until the balloons passed, and I have to say it’s a perfect photo moment (both digital and mental!). I continued visiting the temples I had left to see, and this time I watched the sunset from Bulethi (a better view from this side than in the morning!).

On the third day, I decided to treat myself to a little luxury gift: the hot air balloon flight. Although the budget is significant (over 300 USD), I think it’s something you have to do if you can afford it. I’d had other opportunities to try it, but I think Bagan is surely the most beautiful site to do it, and I was satisfied with the service from Balloons Over Bagan. They pick you up early in the morning to watch the balloon being prepared, cup of tea in hand. Then you take off, very gently, during the sunrise. For an hour, we flew over the some 2,000 temples of Bagan. It’s truly beautiful, with this unique perspective from the air. When we landed, their team was waiting for us with a French-style breakfast: croissants, cakes, and fruit, and above all, a glass of champagne! In short, it’s a beautiful adventure!

Since I didn't have a hotel for the rest of the day until my night bus (again!), I found a slightly fancier hotel and paid about 8 euros to enjoy their pool. So, an afternoon of lounging!

Day 12: Yangon

I had 2 options for this day: go back into the city to explore, or enjoy my slightly fancier hotel (still with a pool) to relax at the end of the trip. I opted for option 2! My hotel was very pretty (Palm Spring Resort, it’s worth recommending!), the staff was very attentive, and I also took the opportunity to get a massage and a little manicure/pedicure. I often end my trips with a few days at the beach, but not having much time this time, it was a nice alternative!

Summary

I really liked this destination for several reasons. The first being that the country isn't yet overrun by tourists (I was at the end of the season, that probably helps too). It’s not very expensive, the people are kind, you feel safe… and Bagan is of course a must-see! Doing this circuit in 12 days like I did can be a bit tiring, so I would definitely recommend a few extra days for those who prefer to take their time!