In Costa Rica, the dry season kicks off in December, and I wanted to take full advantage of it to explore a country famous for its lush nature and incredible biodiversity. I carefully planned my itinerary because I wanted to see all the country's most beautiful spots in 15 days. I spent a lot of time preparing, listing the must-sees and organizing a route to optimize travel time. I’m sharing everything with you below. I hope this helps you plan your own unforgettable trip to discover Costa Rica's natural treasures.
Arrival in San José
I landed in San José, the Costa Rican capital, in the late afternoon. By the time I cleared customs, I was finally able to head out and catch a bus as the sun began to set.
My trip didn't get off to the best start; the bus driver was so unfriendly that even after I asked if the bus went to downtown San José, he practically yelled at me for not boarding fast enough. I ended up in the center of Alajuela (and I had no idea where that city even was). Fortunately, with the help of a kind lady, I was able to immediately hop on a bus that was actually heading to San José.
Even better, everyone was lovely once I arrived and ready to help me find my way. I walked to my hotel, crossing the main avenue to soak up the atmosphere, which was still in the Black Friday spirit (yes, that’s a thing in Costa Rica too!). I didn't do anything special that night, other than get some rest for an early start.
Day 1: Poas Volcano and surroundings
Poas Volcano
I had pre-booked this excursion with Get Your Guide, knowing there wasn't all that much to do or see in San José, and it turned out to be a pretty pleasant first day!
Our first stop was Poas Volcano, as the morning is the best time to see it before the clouds roll in. We had an exceptional day (which wasn't the case for some travelers I met later!) and got a completely clear view of the volcano. It actually consists of 2 craters; the first is the most impressive with its rocky, steaming landscape. The second is filled with water, it’s essentially a lake that would be tempting to dive into if not for the sulfur smell!
The volcano is located in a natural park, and we took a short walk along a paved trail. It was pretty, though the only animal we encountered was a squirrel. We stopped at a souvenir shop where we were offered samples of local products, mostly because some group members were leaving us there and others were joining.
Doka Coffee Plantation
We then headed to the Doka Coffee Plantation for a very hearty lunch. While waiting for everyone to finish, we were able to wander through a butterfly greenhouse. We then took a guided tour with explanations on coffee cultivation. It was interesting, I’d never really wondered where coffee came from or how it was prepared. With all the espresso shots and chocolate-covered coffee beans I sampled, I left feeling very boosted!
Sarchi
We made a quick stop to see the Grecia Cathedral, then went to Sarchi to see the largest oxcart (the country's emblem). For the Sarchi market, I was expecting a large open-air market (like Otavalo in Ecuador), but it was actually a workshop-boutique. We got to see artists at work painting, and the shop was huge. It was already dark by the time I got back to the city, so I just took a short walk to see the Teatro Nacional, which is beautiful.
Day 2: Monteverde (Santa Elena)
The Orchid Garden
I took an early bus to Santa Elena de Monteverde. It's a funny little village where it always seems to be raining a bit, even in full sun! I spent the afternoon at the Orchid Garden, where you can see the smallest orchid in the world… through a magnifying glass, of course! Some might say $10 USD was too expensive, but personally, I had a private tour and lingered a bit afterward to take my photos, and I really enjoyed it.
Night walk to meet the local wildlife
In the evening, I went on a night walk to encounter the local fauna. Right from the start, we spotted a snake, then quickly an olingo and a kinkajou. The sloths were too far away to show more than a paw. We saw birds, frogs (including the red-eyed tree frogs), more snakes, insects… but the highlight was when an anteater decided to put on a show, wandering along a tree for quite a while. You never know what you'll see in advance, of course, but I really enjoyed this tour.
Day 3: Selvatura Park
This was the day I was dreading most, because I was going to try zip-lining!
I won't dwell on it here because I wrote another article dedicated solely to this adventure. But in short, I did a zip-line circuit, the Tarzan jump, a walk on the hanging bridges, a visit to a butterfly greenhouse, and a photo shoot at the hummingbird garden. The latter was great because there were tons of them! And I got to see my first coati, a species that often hangs around the area…
A day packed with adventure (and pushing my own limits)!
Days 4 to 6: Arenal (La Fortuna)
Day 4
To avoid spending the whole day on a bus, I decided to take a tour that included a bus, horseback riding, and a boat to Arenal. I was a bit surprised when I was practically abandoned on the road while everyone else on the bus left without me, because I was the only one who had chosen that option.
Horseback riding around Lake Arenal
No matter, my guide was waiting with our horses. I wasn't particularly comfortable on horseback (and I’d pay for it dearly the next day with sore muscles!), but it was a lovely ride, partly along the shores of Lake Arenal. My guide was super friendly, and since I was alone, we were able to chat throughout the trip. Before we parted ways, we took a break to snack on the best pineapple of my life!
Titoku Hot Springs
Then, I took a small boat across the lake, once again enjoying the views of the misty mountains. I won't talk too much about the hotels I stayed in, except here, because I didn't end up doing that much in Arenal due to the weather, but staying at Hotel Las Flores was practically an attraction in itself. My host, Florindo (an older but very energetic gentleman!), welcomed me like family.
One of the attractions in Arenal is the Hot Springs, heated by the volcano. He offered to drive me there "because there are no sidewalks and it can be dangerous when it's dark." So sweet! I took him up on his offer to try Titoku Hot Springs. It’s surely one of the smallest, but well-designed and very pleasant for a first time. Since I arrived late, the receptionist even gave me a small discount. It was perfect because I wasn't planning on spending hours and hours there anyway, but I really enjoyed the relaxation in the hot pools!
Day 5
Same problem as the day before: the weather wasn't very kind, so it wasn't possible to see the volcano or the azure blue of the Rio Celeste waterfall…
La Fortuna Waterfall
With some friends I met in Monteverde, we decided to go see La Fortuna Waterfall anyway. After a short walk uphill and a fairly long descent of stairs (knowing we’d have to climb them back up!), we arrived at the falls, which are very beautiful (you can see people zip-lining above!). The catch is that you can't swim right next to them, and where you can… the water is freezing! In short, we didn't linger very long, and I regretted the $10 USD paid just to see a waterfall.
Paradise Hot Springs
Afterward, we fell back on the hot springs again, this time at Paradise Hot Springs. Not very expensive and included a meal (though nothing exceptional). Larger than the one we visited the day before, but not very crowded, it was perfect. There were 2 main heated pools, plus smaller, hotter (even boiling!) pools and others that were cold. The only complaint was the peeling paint in the pools, which made them look a bit run-down. But that didn't stop us from spending hours splashing around!
Day 6: Baldi Hot Springs
Undoubtedly the least interesting day, given the continuing rain and a lack of preparation. In the end, another solo traveler arrived at my hotel, and for a change of pace, I ended up at another hot spring, probably the most famous of all: Baldi Hot Springs. I quickly understood why: it’s huge. Lots of pools of all temperatures, a kids' park, slides for the big kids… but obviously, it’s much more crowded!
Days 6 to 8: Tamarindo
Day 6: Beach and sun at the end of the day
Okay, I was a bit fed up with the rain and clothes that never dry (the air is very humid)! After all, in Costa Rica, you expect to find sun, right? It was time for me to go find some.
I said goodbye to Florindo, then left for a long bus ride with 3 transfers before reaching my destination, Tamarindo, on the Pacific coast. I was so thirsty for sun and warmth that in no time, I was in my swimsuit and slathered in sunscreen to enjoy the late afternoon sun (the sun sets early in Costa Rica!). Restaurants and bars were all along the beach, but without taking it over. It was pretty nice, and that evening I was treated to the sunset on my left and a rainbow on my right!
Day 7: Zip-line circuit
The next day, I did another zip-line circuit (again, I talk about it a bit more in my article on the subject), which kept me busy for a good part of the day. Upon returning, I rushed once again to enjoy the late afternoon sun.
Day 8: My birthday
The next day was my birthday! So I had a very full day. I drank as many cocktails as I swallowed cups of water while trying to surf (not very successful!), I had a boa constrictor put around my neck (the snake, not the feather thing!), and I enjoyed a relaxing one-hour massage on the beach. The best!
Days 9 & 10: Santa Teresa, beach, surfing, and relaxation
I wanted to test out different beaches, so I took a shuttle to Santa Teresa, about a hundred kilometers further south, to avoid a complicated bus trip. Once settled and fed, I headed to the beach… practically deserted. Great! Just like the sunset.
The next day, there was a bit more activity, but it still wasn't crowded. Surf lessons are offered because the waves are bigger here. It’s fun to watch the surfers who flock there in the late afternoon. Especially when you’ve tried it yourself and realize how difficult it is!
In the end, there aren't tons of things to do in Santa Teresa itself; most people go for the surfing, or otherwise, like me, to relax quietly on the beach.
Days 11 & 12: Montezuma
Day 11: Beach and releasing turtles
Still with the goal of testing other beaches, I took the shuttle to Montezuma, a neighboring village to Santa Teresa.
Right in front of my hostel, there was a small beach with coarse sand that did the trick while my room was being prepared. I was then recommended to cross the village to get to a larger white-sand beach. Once again, few people were there, except at the end of the day when a turtle sanctuary releases babies into the sea. Very cute! The waves are even stronger here, so you still have to be careful when swimming.
Day 12: Cabo Blanco National Park
The next day, I wanted to move a bit, so I went to Cabo Blanco National Park. It’s at least a 4-hour hike round-trip if you take the longest circuit. It’s not without effort because it goes up and down a lot before reaching a pretty beach… and then you have to head back before closing time.
I managed to spot a family of coatis, capuchin monkeys, an agouti, and then crossed paths with a long yellow snake and a deer. A bit exhausting, but I was happy to have done it, especially since I was practically alone for the entire trip there. I must say I was very happy that my hostel had hammocks to rest in upon my return!
Day 13: Quepos
A day of travel… it seemed like a good idea to take the bus and boat to get to Quepos. Everything was going well (the bus to Paquera, a pleasant hour on the ferry to Puntarenas), but afterward, I started to regret not having taken the speed boat for $30 USD direct to Quepos! Indeed, once I disembarked in Puntarenas, I walked to the bus terminal with my heavy bags because I’d been told it was 200 meters away… which turned out to be 2 kilometers… only to miss the Quepos bus by 15 minutes and have to wait 2 hours for the next one. So I arrived a bit late and in the rain, quite tired.
Day 14: Manuel Antonio National Park
I took the bus early in the morning to get to the most popular park in Costa Rica, Manuel Antonio National Park, still on the Pacific coast, in the center of the country.
On the way, I met two super friendly French women with whom I spent the day. We were a bit surprised upon entering the park, with its 3-meter-wide trail, power lines overhead, and people talking loudly. How could we see animals in these conditions? Yet, we managed to see some: a baby bat, a family of raccoons, sloths (at a decent height for once), and monkeys (capuchins, spider monkeys, and howlers).
Unfortunately, people have fed the animals, so the monkeys don't hesitate to come and steal food directly from backpacks! There are pretty beaches and some quite impressive viewpoints from up high. More touristy, certainly, but still very pleasant in the end.
Days 15 & 16: Drake Bay
Once again, I took a shuttle, as I was heading quite far south in the country. We were dropped off in Sierpe, where we took boats to reach Drake Bay (still on the Pacific). I was able to witness a flock of Scarlet Macaws before departure, magnificent! After a wet landing, I found my accommodation only to realize I no longer had my passport with me. The story would be too long to tell, but let's just say half the village must have seen me crying that day! (Fortunately, I got it back the day before my departure… phew!).
Day 15: River tubing
For the afternoon, I had booked a river tubing trip. I almost canceled because of my paperwork issues, but I’m glad I did it anyway. It was really pleasant, sometimes exciting when there were small rapids, and often relaxing when you just let yourself drift with the current while observing the nature around you (in the rain, in my case, for a good part of the tour).
In the evening, I had planned another night walk with someone known as "The Bug Lady," but I really had to cancel to sort out my lost passport situation.
Day 16
Corcovado National Park
OK, I’m cheating; I mentioned a 15-day itinerary, but I added a 16th day of sightseeing to be truly complete.
The next day, I did Corcovado National Park, again with the agency Get Your Guide. I had high expectations regarding the animals because everyone says it’s one of the most preserved parks, etc. We got there by boat, with quite a few waves to add some action. During the tour, we were able to see all 4 species of monkeys present in Costa Rica. A sloth was sleeping very high in a tree, and we didn't find the tapir that was sleeping. We saw many colorful birds and insects. We ended the visit with a delicious meal prepared by our guides. On the way back, the landscape was beautiful with its turquoise water… and we were lucky enough to be partially escorted by dolphins!
Night swim with bioluminescent plankton
Back at the hotel, I was able to enjoy the hammock to rest from this long walk, bliss!
In the evening, to finish on a high note, I had booked a night swim to see the bioluminescent plankton. When you move in the water, the plankton "lights up," and it looks like you’re making thousands of stars appear! There were only 2 of us to create this magic; I really wish a jet ski had passed by to activate a larger amount of plankton!!! It was still a very special experience that brought this packed trip to a brilliant close…
Return to San José and then Paris
No activity per se, but I flew back to San José, and it was the first time I’d ever taken a 20-seater plane! It was an experience in itself; it was fast, and the view was superb. In my case, I was able to stay at the airport to catch my flight to Paris a few hours later.
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