Visiting Varese, the quiet elegance at the foot of the Alps
What if true luxury was found in the silence of an Italian garden, framed by the shadows of the Alps? Far from the frantic pace of neighboring Milan, Varese whispers its charm to those who take the time to listen. It is a city that does not shout its beauty from the rooftops, but instead reveals it around the corner of a villa driveway, in the sun glinting off a lake, or along a centuries-old pilgrimage path.
Varese: A destination for aesthetes seeking peace
Varese is not for everyone. If your idea of an Italian vacation involves high-octane nightlife and dense crowds, you might find the pace here a bit slow. However, if you are a lover of manicured gardens, an art enthusiast seeking specialized collections, or a nature lover looking for tranquility, this garden city could be your secret sanctuary.
It is the perfect destination for couples, families, and solo travelers who appreciate a slower rhythm and a refined atmosphere.
In terms of logistics, expect a moderate budget. While more accessible than Como or Milan, Varese is still a place where elegance commands a price. To truly enjoy the region and its lakes, renting a car is nearly essential, even if the city center itself is a delight to explore on foot.
A balcony overlooking art and history
Varese is an open-air book of history and art, a legacy left by the Milanese nobility who once kept their summer residences here. The crown jewel is undoubtedly the Sacro Monte di Varese, a UNESCO-listed pilgrimage route. It winds for 2 kilometers through the forest, marked by fourteen spectacular Baroque chapels, until it reaches the charming village of Santa Maria del Monte.
Back in town, the Palazzo Estense, dubbed the "Versailles of Milan" by Stendhal, will dazzle you with its magnificence. Do not be fooled by its austere street-side facade. The garden side reveals its true splendor with a sumptuous Italian-style park. For a touch of contemporary art, the Villa Panza houses an internationally renowned collection of American art in an equally exceptional setting.
Traveler tip: For the Sacro Monte, park at the bottom and walk up to fully experience the pilgrimage. For the descent, or if the climb feels daunting, take the historic funicular. The view over the lakes and the Prealps is striking and is an experience in itself.
The call of the lakes and secret gardens
Nicknamed the "Città Giardino" (Garden City), Varese lives up to its name. Beyond the sublime grounds of the Palazzo Estense, the city serves as an ideal base for exploring the region's tranquil waters. The Lac de Varese, with a bike path stretching nearly 30 km around its perimeter, is a haven for walkers and cyclists.
Less crowded than its famous neighbors, Lake Maggiore and Lake Como, it offers a more authentic and restful atmosphere. It is the perfect spot for a picnic on the grass, a stroll along the water, or simply watching the sunset over the Alpine chain.
Traveler tip: Rent a bike in Gavirate, a charming lakeside town, and set out for a full loop of the Lac de Varese. The path is mostly flat and accessible to everyone. Stop at Zanzi park for a refreshing break on the lake beach.
The beating heart of the historic center
The center of Varese is a maze of elegant pedestrian streets and charming squares. The main thoroughfare, Corso Matteotti, is perfect for window shopping, filled with chic boutiques and historic cafes. The true social heart of the city beats in Piazza Monte Grappa, recognizable by its rationalist architecture and large fountain.
Stroll to the Basilica San Vittore to admire its Baroque bell tower and neoclassical interior. But the real pleasure lies in getting lost in the vicoli, those narrow alleys that lead to secret courtyards and quiet squares, far from the noise. This is where you will feel the true Varesine soul.
Traveler tip: For aperitivo, skip the main squares and find a bar in a side street off Corso Matteotti. Order an Aperol Spritz and enjoy the generous complimentary snacks, a true local institution to start the evening.
Where to eat and drink in Varese?
The local cuisine is a tasty blend of Lombard traditions and flavors from the Prealpine valleys. Try the risotto, often prepared with lake fish like perch. Local cheeses, such as the Formaggella del Luinese AOP, a mild goat cheese, are a treat. Don't leave without biting into a Brutti e Buoni (ugly but good), dry cookies made with almonds and hazelnuts that are perfect with a coffee.
Where to stay in Varese and the surrounding area?
To be in the heart of the action, choose a hotel in the historic center near Corso Matteotti, where you can reach everything on foot. If you are looking for tranquility and have a car, there are plenty of options. Opt for a hotel with a view of the Lac de Varese or an agriturismo (farm stay) in the surrounding hills for a more rustic and authentic experience.
How to get to and around Varese?
The nearest airport is Milan Malpensa (MXP), about a 40-minute drive away. Regular trains connect Varese to Milan in about an hour, making it an easy day trip from the Lombard capital. In town, the center is easily navigated on foot. However, to explore the lakes, the Sacro Monte, and the surrounding villas, a car is highly recommended for more freedom.
I really liked my stay in the city of Varese. It is a very pretty Italian city on a human scale. The center is lively and vibrant, especially on nice days. You eat well there and there are fewer crowds than in other, more touristy cities in the country. I recommend spending three to four days there.