Visiting Como, more than just a postcard
It is not the sound of lapping water you hear first in Como, but the distant drone of a seaplane touching down on the lake. That sound captures the city's essence: a mix of old-world glamour and gentle adventure. It is an invitation to see this iconic landscape from a new perspective, far beyond the static imagery of opulent villas and manicured gardens.
Como: glamour within reach, if you know where to look
Como is a destination for aesthetes, romantics, and anyone drawn to dramatic landscapes where mountains plunge into deep blue water. If you enjoy wandering through historic alleys, window-shopping at elegant boutiques, and catching a boat to discover picturesque villages like Bellagio or Varenna, Como is your ideal home base. It is the perfect entry point for a first trip to the lake.
If you are looking for rustic, low-cost Italy, or if summer crowds overwhelm you, you might be disappointed. Popularity comes with a price, and your budget can climb quickly, especially for lake-view lodging and dining.
Leave the rental car behind in the historic center, as parking is a nightmare. Rely on walking and the ferry, which is by far the best way to navigate the lake.
Exploring Como and the jewels of the lake
Visiting Como is not just about seeing a city, it is about using it as a launchpad to explore an entire world. The best approach combines time in the historic center with excursions on the water and into the hills to fully grasp the scale of the region.
A walk through the historic center, between stone and silk
Como's center is enclosed by ancient walls and is best seen while looking up. The centerpiece is, of course, the Duomo, a magnificent cathedral that took nearly four centuries to complete, gracefully blending Gothic and Renaissance styles. Right next door, do not miss the Basilica di San Fedele, nestled in a charming square that once hosted the town's grain market.
This area is also where you will grasp the importance of silk to the city. Many luxury boutiques sell scarves and ties that highlight this historic craft. For a more local vibe, get lost in the alleys around Piazza Cavour, the city's grand living room opening onto the lake.
Pro tip: for a quiet break from the bustle, visit the Basilica di Sant'Abbondio. A bit removed from the center, this masterpiece of Lombard Romanesque art offers a simplicity and serenity that contrast beautifully with the ornate Duomo.
The lake, the main event
You cannot visit Como without getting out on the water. The public ferry service is remarkably efficient and makes you feel like George Clooney for the duration of your ride. Hop on the regular line that serves the "Golden Triangle" villages: Bellagio, the pearl of the lake, and Varenna, which feels more colorful and intimate. The journey itself is an attraction, offering unobstructed views of legendary villas like Villa d'Este or Villa Erba.
For a more focused experience, touring the gardens of famous villas is a delight. Villa Carlotta in Tremezzo with its botanical garden or Villa Balbianello (accessible after a short walk or by water taxi) are masterpieces of harmony between nature and architecture.
Pro tip: buy a daily free-circulation ticket for the middle of the lake. It allows you to hop on and off at will between main villages like Bellagio, Varenna, and Menaggio, giving you total flexibility to explore at your own pace.
Getting some altitude with the Brunate funicular
To understand the unique geography of the lake, you have to get high up. The Como-Brunate funicular, a local institution since 1894, climbs to the heights of the village of Brunate in 7 minutes. The view from the car is already impressive, but it becomes breathtaking once you reach the top.
From there, the panorama stretches over the city, the first basin of the lake, and on a clear day, all the way to the Swiss Alps. Do not stop at the arrival station; a short walk will lead you to even more impressive viewpoints. For the more active, a 30-minute hike leads to the Faro Voltiano, a lighthouse dedicated to Alessandro Volta, where the 360-degree view is the ultimate reward.
Pro tip: head up in the late afternoon. You will catch the golden light on the lake, and you can even grab an aperitivo at one of the bars in Brunate before heading back down, with the lights of Como sparkling at your feet.
Where to eat and drink in Como?
The local cuisine is a marriage of lake and mountain. The undisputed star is freshwater fish: try the risotto with perch fillets, a delicate and savory classic. Another, more rustic specialty is missoltini, sun-dried and pressed shad, often served with polenta uncia, a creamy polenta enriched with butter and local cheese. In the evening, do as the locals do and sit down for an aperitivo at a bar in Piazza Cavour.
Where to stay in Como and the surrounding area?
For total immersion and easy access to transport, staying in the historic center of Como is an excellent choice. Hotels like the Albergo Firenze on Piazza Volta offer a good balance. If you are looking for more quiet and a view, accommodations in the surrounding hills or in the first few lakeside villages like Cernobbio are perfect.
For a trip focused on exploring the lake, consider staying directly in the "Golden Triangle" in Menaggio or Varenna, which are often a bit quieter than the highly popular Bellagio.
How to get to and around Como?
The nearest airport is Milan Malpensa. From there, the easiest way to arrive is by train. The city of Como is very well connected from Milan via the train stations of Milano Cadorna (arriving at Como Nord Lago, right on the water) and Milano Centrale (arriving at Como San Giovanni).
Once in Como, the center is walkable. For everything else, the bus network is adequate, but the ferry is king for moving between villages along the lake. Rental cars are only recommended if you intend to explore the mountainous backcountry.
