Visiting Nîmes, the French Rome
If you are looking for a city in the South of France where layers of history blend with a relaxed Mediterranean pace, Nîmes is a strong contender. Known as the "French Rome" for its density of remarkably preserved Roman architecture, it offers a distinct aesthetic of ancient monuments, narrow streets, and a culture deeply influenced by local bullfighting traditions.
The Arènes de Nîmes: A remarkably preserved amphitheater
You cannot visit Nîmes without seeing its iconic Roman amphitheater. Built at the end of the 1st century, it stands as one of the best-preserved ancient arenas in the world. It remains active today, hosting everything from concerts to historical reenactments and bullfighting events. Even if the bullfighting tradition is not your style, the interior is worth the price of admission just to walk the stone corridors and take in the sheer scale of the engineering.
The Maison Carrée and Carré d'Art: A clash of eras
Another Roman-era standout, the Maison Carrée, is a temple that looks as though it could have been transported directly from the Roman Forum. Its balance and preservation are impressive for any history buff. Just across the square sits the Carré d'Art, designed by architect Norman Foster. This starkly modern glass and steel building houses a contemporary art museum and a public library, creating a visual dialogue between the ancient stone columns and the 20th-century design.
The Jardins de la Fontaine and Tour Magne: Greenery and ancient ruins
For a quiet afternoon, the Jardins de la Fontaine are the go-to spot. This 18th-century landscaped park is built around the original Roman spring that provided water to the ancient city and includes the remains of the temple of Diane. If you have the energy, hike up to the Tour Magne, the last remaining remnant of the original Roman defensive walls, for a panoramic view over the rooftops of Nîmes.
The historic center: Narrow streets and plazas
Walking through the historic center of Nîmes means turning corners into surprises. From the place aux Herbes, lined with cafe terraces, to the cathédrale Saint-Castor and the passage de l'Horloge, the vibe is unmistakably Mediterranean. Stop by the marché des Halles, the local covered market, to watch the city go about its day and sample regional products.
Cuisine with a Mediterranean edge
Nîmes has a distinct food culture. The signature dish is brandade de morue, a smooth, emulsified spread made from salt cod and olive oil. If you want something heartier, try the costelette d'agneau de Nîmes, a local lamb preparation. For a snack, pick up some croquants Villaret, which are crunchy, anise-flavored cookies.
Where to eat?
- Le Lisita (Esplanade): Refined cooking overlooking the arenas, focusing on local ingredients.
- La Table du 2 (Maison Carrée): A gourmet spot with a modern menu and a view of the ancient temple.
- Le Wine Bar du Cheval Blanc (Arènes): A cozy spot perfect for tapas and regional wines.
- Restaurant Skab (City center): A Michelin-starred destination serving elegant, locally sourced dishes.
Where to stay?
- Appart'City Nîmes Arènes (City center): Practical and comfortable for those who want to be in the middle of everything.
- Maison Albar Hotels L'Imperator (Quai de la Fontaine): A historic 5-star hotel known for its luxury and classic style.
- Hôtel des Tuileries (Jean Jaurès): A solid value option just a short walk from the center.
- Margaret, Hôtel Chouleur (Place d'Assas): A boutique hotel with an intimate feel, set in a historic building.
When to go?
Nîmes has a classic Mediterranean climate, meaning hot, dry summers and mild winters. Spring and fall are the best times to visit if you want to avoid peak heat. The Férias de Nîmes, held in May and September, are the city's biggest events, characterized by street parties and high energy.
How to get here?
Nîmes is well-connected by rail. The trip from Paris takes about 3 hours via TGV. If you are coming from Marseille or Montpellier, the train ride is between 30 minutes and 1 hour. Nîmes has its own regional airport, but most travelers fly into Montpellier, a 45-minute drive away, for more flight options.
How to get around?
The city center is compact and very walkable. For longer distances, the Tango bus network covers the entire metro area. You can also rent bicycles to cruise through the streets at a slower pace.
I was pleasantly surprised by Nimes! The atmosphere is nice and it is well located in relation to other points of interest in the region. History buffs will be thrilled by the arena (and its really interesting shows) and other ruins. On the other hand, I do not recommend going there during the feria... Well, that is up to you, of course!