Visiting Nîmes, the French Rome
If you are looking for a southern French city where history meets a distinctly Mediterranean atmosphere, Nîmes is worth a stop. Nicknamed the "French Rome" for its exceptional ancient heritage, it offers an easygoing setting defined by well-preserved monuments, narrow streets, and a culture shaped by bullfighting traditions.
Nîmes Arena: A Remarkably Preserved Amphitheater
You cannot visit Nîmes without stopping in front of its iconic Roman amphitheater. Built at the end of the first century, this structure stands among the best-preserved ancient arenas in the world. It still hosts regular events today, including bullfights, concerts, and historical reenactments. Even if you are not interested in bullfighting, walking through the interior is worth the detour for the sheer scale of the architecture and the atmosphere inside.
Maison Carrée and Carré d'Art: A Face-to-Face Between Past and Modernity
Another Roman jewel, the Maison Carrée is an exceptionally well-preserved ancient temple inspired by the temples of Augustus in Rome. Its elegance and clean lines make it a fascinating site for history enthusiasts. Right across the square, the Carré d'Art, designed by architect Norman Foster, provides a striking contrast. This modern building houses a contemporary art museum and a public library.
Jardins de la Fontaine and Tour Magne: A Historic Green Space
When you want a pleasant walk, the Jardins de la Fontaine are ideal. This 18th-century landscaped park was laid out around an ancient site that includes the Temple of Diana and the natural spring that gave birth to the city. Climbing up to the Tour Magne, a surviving fragment of the Roman fortifications, rewards you with panoramic views across the city.
The Historic Center: Picturesque Lanes and Lively Squares
Wandering through the historic center of Nîmes means discovering a city where every street hides a surprise. From the place aux Herbes with its lively café terraces to the Saint-Castor Cathedral and the clock tower, the mood is unmistakably southern. The Halles market is a prime spot to watch local life unfold and sample regional specialties.
A Cuisine Tied to Local Traditions and Mediterranean Influences
Nîmes is known for its distinctive local food. The signature dish is brandade de morue, a smooth, whipped preparation made from salt cod and olive oil. Meat lovers can try gardiane de taureau, a hearty regional beef stew. On the sweet side, croquants Villaret, which are crunchy anise biscuits, make a popular local treat.
Where to Eat?
- Le Lisita (Esplanade): Refined dining right across from the arena, showcasing local ingredients.
- La Table du 2 (Maison Carrée): A fine dining restaurant featuring great views and modern cooking.
- Le Wine Bar du Cheval Blanc (Arena): A warm atmosphere serving southern-influenced tapas.
- Restaurant Skab (Downtown): A Michelin-starred spot offering elegant plates built around regional produce.
When to Go?
Nîmes enjoys a Mediterranean climate marked by hot, dry summers and mild winters. Spring and autumn are the best times to visit if you want to avoid the peak summer heat. The Férias de Nîmes, held in May and September, are high-energy weekends when the city comes alive with bullfights and street celebrations.
How to Get There?
Nîmes is easily reached by train, with the TGV trip from Paris taking around 3 hours. From Marseille or Montpellier, expect a ride between 30 minutes and 1 hour. The Nîmes-Alès-Camargue Airport handles a handful of European routes, but Montpellier Airport, located 45 minutes away by car, gives you significantly more options.
How to Get Around?
Downtown Nîmes is entirely walkable. For longer trips, the Tango bus network covers the entire metropolitan area. Public bike-sharing options are also available for exploring the city at a slower pace.
I was pleasantly surprised by Nimes! The atmosphere is nice and it is well located in relation to other points of interest in the region. History buffs will be thrilled by the arena (and its really interesting shows) and other ruins. On the other hand, I do not recommend going there during the feria... Well, that is up to you, of course!