Visiting Uzès, a town with the quiet charm of a duchy
Positioned between the Cévennes and Provence, Uzès moves at a slower pace, rooted in its deep history and a classic Southern French way of life. This town in the Gard department, officially recognized as a Ville d’Art et d’Histoire, is a prime destination for travelers who appreciate historic architecture, local markets, and regional cuisine.
A preserved historic center
You explore the heart of Uzès on foot, wandering through narrow cobblestone alleys lined with honey-colored stone houses. The Place aux Herbes, shaded by plane trees and framed by arcades, hosts a famous market twice a week where you will find everything from local produce to artisanal crafts. A short walk away, the Duché d’Uzès, which remains a private residence today, stands as a testament to the town's prestige. The Tour Fenestrelle, the only round bell tower in the Lombard style found in France, completes this striking architectural scene.
Countryside strolls
Just outside the town limits, the Vallée de l’Eure provides a green, quiet space for a walk. This is the area where the Romans once collected water to supply Nîmes, and today it serves as a scenic route with shaded paths and ancient ruins. If you have extra time, the nearby villages of Lussan and Saint-Quentin-la-Poterie are worth a visit for their local charm and traditional craftsmanship.
A diverse cultural scene
Uzès houses several museums, including the Musée Georges Borias. Set in the former bishop's palace, it details local history through art and everyday artifacts. Families often head to the Musée du Bonbon Haribo, which is dedicated to the history of the famous candy brand. During the summer, the town programs temporary exhibits, concerts, and festivals, often utilizing the historic settings of the Duché or the Saint-Théodorit Cathedral.
A lively, colorful market
The market in Uzès, held on Wednesday and Saturday mornings on the Place aux Herbes, ranks among the most well-known in the region. You will find a wide array of local goods: fruits and vegetables, cheeses, cured meats, olives, and wines, alongside clothing, pottery, and handmade wares. The atmosphere is social and high-energy, offering a genuine look at Southern French living.
Gastronomy: truffles and olives
The area around Uzès is famous for its black truffles, which take center stage during the Fête de la Truffe in January. Olives and olive oil are other staples of the local diet. For dessert, look for croquignoles, crunchy almond biscuits that pair perfectly with a coffee or a glass of sweet wine.
Where to eat?
- La Table d'Uzès (historic center): A Michelin-starred restaurant serving refined dishes that highlight local ingredients.
- Le Comptoir du 7 (boulevard Charles-Gide): Modern, creative cooking served in an elegant environment.
- La Famille (Place aux Herbes): A casual spot with a menu built around the day's market findings.
Where to sleep?
- Boutique Hôtel Entraigues (historic center): A charming hotel with a swimming pool and views over the town.
- Le Mas du Lac (outskirts): A guesthouse tucked into a green setting that features a pool.
- Logis Hotel Restaurant Uzès Pont du Gard (near the center): A comfortable hotel with an onsite restaurant and pool.
When to go?
The best window for visiting Uzès is from spring through autumn, when the weather is mild and the calendar is full of events. January draws food lovers for the Fête de la Truffe, while the summer months are defined by festivals and outdoor exhibitions.
How to get there?
Uzès is accessible by car via the A9 motorway, taking the Remoulins exit. The nearest TGV train stations are in Nîmes and Avignon, both located about 30 km (19 miles) away. Regional buses also connect Uzès to surrounding towns.
How to get around?
The center of Uzès is easily navigated on foot. If you plan to explore the surrounding area, a car is recommended, though bus lines do serve the neighboring villages.
Uzès is a marvel to explore on foot while wandering through its lively narrow streets. I loved the vibrant squares in the city center and the many historical sites. My favorite spot was the beautiful Place aux Herbes, shaded by tall plane trees. In the summer, the energy spreads throughout the entire city, and the vibe is festive thanks to the many concerts, exhibits, and local markets.