Visiting Cologne: How to Party During Carnival

Hello everyone!

I’d like to tell you about a week I spent in Cologne, Germany.

Cologne Carnival

Located just a 3-hour train ride from Paris, this city has everything going for it. I went there in November with two friends to take part in the famous Cologne Carnival. While the carnival technically kicks off on November 11th at 11:11 AM (11 being the "fool's number," as everyone knows!), the main festivities happen during the week leading up to Ash Wednesday.

Women's Carnival Day

Everything really gets started on Women's Carnival Day (Weiberfastnacht), when men had better hide their ties: any woman who crosses paths with a guy in a tie will cut it right off. Fortunately, to console them, the women give the passersby a kiss on the cheek.

In front of the crowd gathered at the Gürzenich, the keys to the city are handed over to the Carnival Prince, signaling the start of the festivities: the beer is going to flow freely!! On that note, don't bother looking for anything else: the only beer you'll be served during the carnival is Kölsch.

The Parades

On Saturday, there’s the ghost parade (Geisterzug), which has a bit more of a rebellious vibe.

However, Monday is the big official parade: the famous Rosenmontagszug. More than 10,000 people pack onto floats or march on foot starting from Chlodwigplatz, to the delight of the 1 to 2 million spectators lining the streets. They toss roses, of course, along with plenty of candy.

And on Tuesday, we burn Mr. Nubbel, the carnival’s effigy, marking the end of the festivities. People take the opportunity to burn little Nubbel dolls while chanting, "It’s always Nubbel’s fault!" It’s a way to hope for forgiveness for any regrettable antics committed during the party...

City Attractions

Cologne Cathedral

Cologne isn't just about the carnival. Having been here before, I remember the city for its twelve Romanesque basilicas and its cathedral, which is a UNESCO World Heritage site.

The cathedral (Kölner Dom) is said to be the second most famous monument in Germany after the Brandenburg Gate. Standing 157 meters tall, the Kölner Dom is the seat of the Archbishop of Cologne and the 2nd tallest church in Germany (after Ulm at 161.5m), and the 3rd tallest in the world. Its sheer scale is even more impressive when you consider the west facade has a total surface area of 7,100 square meters, and thankfully, the stained glass doesn't need to be cleaned every week: it covers 10,000 square meters! Climb to the top of one of the towers and, after 533 steps, enjoy the view.

The City Hall

But that's not all. There is also the Kölner Rathaus (Cologne City Hall), which is the oldest in Germany. Every hour, don't miss the chance to see the Platz-Jabbeck (located under the tower clock) stick its tongue out at you. You can also hear the lovely carillon made up of 48 bells. It plays one of the 24 melodies in its repertoire every day at 9 AM, 12 PM, 3 PM, and 6 PM.

The House of Eau de Cologne

You also have to stop by the home of Eau de Cologne: closely tied to the city, the fragrance was created in 1709 by perfumer Johann Maria Farina using a blend of essential oils, lemon, orange, bergamot, mandarin, lime, cedar, and grapefruit, along with various aromatic herbs and a high alcohol content. Even today, Eau de Cologne is still produced in the city using the same recipe. There’s even a museum dedicated to it for the purists.

The Old Town

The old town of Cologne (Altstadt) is defined by the former fortification walls and their gates. It’s within the area between the old square (Alter Markt), the fish market (Fischermarkt), and the Romanesque church of Great St. Martin that you can appreciate the historic character of old Cologne, which today is only a tiny fraction of what it was before the war and the bombings. The fortifications and four medieval gates are still visible.

The Romanesque Basilicas

Of course, you have to check out at least one of the city's twelve Romanesque basilicas, sometimes tucked between tall, colorful houses. They offer such a contrast to the gaiety of the streets! I’m thinking in particular of Great St. Martin, which sits right along the Rhine. On that note, treat yourself to a boat trip on the Rhine; it’s worth a look, especially at night when the city is illuminated, making it even more beautiful.

If you head just outside the city, you’ll see Augustusburg Castle (about 15 km away), which is also a UNESCO World Heritage site.

Where to go out at night

The Belgian Quarter

For nightlife, I suggest heading over to the Belgian Quarter (Belgisches Viertel). It’s a trendy spot where you’ll find plenty of clubs playing electro music. Hohenzollernring avenue is particularly lively, with lots of foot traffic and shops. To have a typically "Cologne" experience (yes, I had to look up the demonym for the city), I suggest spending at least part of your evening at Alcazar. You can grab a bite or a drink there, all in a very cool musical atmosphere.

The Student Quarter

If you're looking for a vibe like the Mabillon neighborhood in Paris, you'll find what you're looking for in Cologne’s student quarter (Kwartier Latäng). Once night falls, the local youth gather in the many bars, restaurants, and clubs that swarm the streets surrounding Zülpicher Platz.

In short, there’s something for everyone, and the most resilient among you can try to balance high-energy nights with jam-packed days of discovery. Good luck!