Precautions to take
I’d like to share our experience traveling as a couple to Bali, keeping in mind that my wife was five months pregnant at the time.
The precautions we took:
- I’ll start by saying we had absolutely no trouble finding bottled water throughout our trip, a point that I’m sure will reassure some of you ;-)
- Mosquito repellent specifically for children/pregnant women.
- High-SPF sunscreen, minimal sun exposure (at the beach, we stayed under the shade of a tree), wearing a hat or bandana, etc.
And that’s it! Well, pregnancy isn't an illness, after all :-)
Ubud, a central starting point
Upon arriving in Bali, we took a taxi to Sanur (double-check your change at the airport, and know that the exchange rate will be much better in Sanur).
Sanur is a pleasant spot with a shopping street and a (man-made) sandy beach, perfect for recovering after the flight. There are nice restaurants and little cafes where you can settle in and send emails to reassure the family...
We then headed to Ubud, the "central" hub of the island, using a blue taxi (the recognizable "Blue Bird" cabs). These taxis have meters, which avoids any surprises. Ubud is a very dynamic and therefore busy place, where you can enjoy Balinese cuisine, massages, and lovely walks through the rice paddies. Above all, it’s a great base from which to easily explore the rest of the island.
Don’t hesitate to negotiate when you’re planning a day of sightseeing with a driver. If you approach it with a good attitude, you can choose your destinations for the day, set your own schedule, and get a fair price. In my opinion, it’s the easiest way to visit the surrounding area.
For our first day of sightseeing, we went:
- To the Elephant Cave (very close to Ubud; go early before the tour buses arrive).
- Up to Mount Batur (the classic lunch stop in Penelokan at an average restaurant, but with a superb view).
- Passing through Tampaksiring to the Tirta Empul temple, where you can take a lucky bath, very enjoyable!
Hiking from Munduk
We took a rest day, then organized a trip to Munduk.
Instead of going straight there, we planned a day of sightseeing that ended in Munduk, which felt like the smarter move. On the way, we enjoyed the stunning rice paddies of Jatiluwih. By stopping before the final viewpoint where everyone crowds together, we found a modest restaurant that was perfect for a quick lunch.
Next, we went to Bedugul, where the lovely Ulun Danu Beratan Temple can be visited on the edge of the lake, a truly peaceful spot.
Finally, we were dropped off in Munduk in the late afternoon. Munduk is at a (reasonable) altitude and serves as a starting point for many hikes.
The next day, my pregnant wife and I set off for a "short" hike of a few hours, with a long lunch break halfway through. This hike included:
- Discovering clove cultivation (you know, cloves, turns out they actually grow somewhere!).
- Exploring coffee plantations.
- Two magnificent waterfalls located upstream from Munduk, which have the benefit of cooling you down as you pass by.
A quick safety note: remember to wear long pants. We did cross paths with a spider in the middle of its web that was larger than my hand (and I’m over 6 feet tall...), you never know!
Lovina, a disappointing stop
The weak point of Munduk is the dining; our hotel offered a basic and relatively expensive menu, so it’s better to find a small restaurant yourself and stick to the classics. After 2 nights in Munduk, it was time to "take off," so we shared a ride with another couple to Lovina "beach."
A word of caution: we happened to be in Bali during Galungan, which is a festival you shouldn't miss:
- The week before, many decorations are prepared.
- On the morning of the festival, all the island's inhabitants go to their temples as a family and then spend the day together (it’s a general day of rest, so not a day to plan a trip...).
We only spent one day in Lovina, which is the only place in Bali where you are constantly harassed by people trying to sell you a restaurant, a hotel, etc. Stick to the hotel recommended in your guidebook and make sure it has a pool, because the beach was a total dump (at least in August 2015)! Views of soda cans and trash at low tide... Skip it!
However, Lovina is the only logical stop between Munduk and Amed, where we wanted to go, and it wasn't possible to do in one trip... so that explains that.
The heavenly coves of Amed
The following day, we arrived in Amed, in the northeast of Bali, in the Karangasem district. We had a great time there, staying in a small bungalow with a beach view. Amed is made up of a series of coves (like little villages) where you’ll find hotels, restaurants, pleasant beaches, and as a bonus, superb spots for diving and snorkeling.
Abandoning my pregnant partner without remorse, I took the opportunity to do an unforgettable introductory dive at the USS Liberty site, a shipwreck sitting just off the beach, a few kilometers from Amed, where divers from all over the world come to enjoy the spectacle. I suggest you choose a dive center from your guidebook with an instructor who speaks your language... it costs more, but it’s safer.
Meno and the Gili Islands
After thoroughly enjoying Amed, we left the island of Bali for a getaway to the Gili Islands.
This was the small mistake of our trip, as we took a fast boat, only to learn the next day that it is strongly discouraged for pregnant women...
The Gili Islands are little paradises: Trawangan is the party island, Air is the middle ground, and Meno is the little haven of peace between its two big sisters. Given our state of mind, we chose Meno, where we spent 6 days lounging by the water, daydreaming in hammocks, walking at sunset, snorkeling right off the beach, drinking fruit cocktails, and snacking on local food (and a pizza or two, I admit).
Always watch out for the many critters, mosquitoes, small snakes, small scorpions, spiders, and the like. They don't usually interact with tourists, but they are never far away. Take the usual precautions (mosquito repellent + mosquito net at night) and be careful when unfolding your towel or putting on your shoes.
Our trip ends here, and we then headed back home.
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