Visiting Karangasem
Karangasem is a regency located on the far eastern side of the island of Bali in Indonesia. It served as the seat of a historically powerful Balinese kingdom. The rulers took the name Anak Agung, a direct reference to Mount Agung. At 10,308 feet, this is the highest volcano on Bali, and the ruling dynasty considered it the center of the world. By the 19th century, the nine kingdoms of Bali had gradually fallen under Dutch administrative control. The Besakih temple, the most significant on the island, and the vestiges of Semarapura remain as markers of the grand history of Karangasem's sovereigns.
Surrounding areas: remnants of a kingdom
On the road to Karangasem, stop at the historic site of Klungkung, or Semarapura, which holds the remains of the former royal capital. Its courthouse, built in 1710, is packed with traditional Balinese frescoes, carvings, and paintings. The site preserves a deep cultural and ritual legacy from the Anung dynasty. Closer to Karangasem, a trip to Tirtagangga is essential. This water palace was founded in the mid-19th century by the Rajah of Tampalura. After suffering damage during the 1963 eruption of Mount Agung, the pools and gardens were carefully restored for public access. In a similar vein, the Soekasada Ujung water palace is worth the detour. Built right on the coastline, it once served as an observation point for monitoring maritime traffic coming from the neighboring island of Lombok.
The Karangasem region is dense with temples. The nearest is Lempuyang Luhur, a complex dedicated to Shiva that consists of seven distinct temples. Be prepared for a climb of 1,700 steps to reach the top. Not far away, on the slopes of Mount Agung, stands the most sacred temple in Bali: Besakih. It encompasses nearly 80 individual temples scattered across a wide area, all dedicated to the three major Hindu deities, Brahma, Vishnu, and Shiva.
Eastern Bali: rice paddies and the coast
Experience the local geography of Karangasem by hiking in Sidemen, a lush valley filled with vibrant green rice terraces. For those looking for a physical challenge, you can arrange a trek to summit Mount Agung.
The Karangasem coastline is equally striking. The small village of Amed, with its black volcanic sand beaches, offers a quiet, authentic atmosphere. Beyond the beaches, diving enthusiasts should head to Tulamben, a coastal spot known for exceptional marine life. Resting on the seafloor here is the wreck of the Liberty, an American cargo ship sunk by a Japanese submarine in 1942 during World War II.
When to go
Plan your trip to Bali during the dry season, which runs from April through September.
Getting there
From Denpasar, where the international airport is located, you can take a taxi or a shuttle to Karangasem. Alternatively, renting your own vehicle gives you the freedom to explore the rest of the island at your own pace.
