Hello everyone! Just a little souvenir from my trip to Edinburgh (or Edinburgh for the purists). Three incredible days last August… Phew, I’m still breathless just thinking about it! Far from the clichés I had in mind, I spent the long weekend soaking up the sun.
Getting to Edinburgh and finding a place to stay
It’s an incredibly lively city. I went with a group of five friends I usually party with back in France or elsewhere. This time, the plan came from our friend Eric, our resident expert on Anglo-Saxon culture.
When it came to booking flights, we were pleasantly surprised by how affordable the fares were, thanks to several low-cost airlines competing for passengers. The only thing you need to be careful about is making sure you’re flying into Edinburgh and not Glasgow, which is also well-served. We flew out of Beauvais with Ryanair for 45 euros one way, and the return was a bit pricier (between 50 and 60 euros, I believe).
Note that, depending on where you’re starting from, you can also take a ferry. That’s actually the route two French tourists we met at a pub chose; they explained they’d come from Ireland by ferry, and before that, they’d traveled through England after taking a ferry from France.
For accommodation, we initially thought about a youth hostel, but given the low prices of local guesthouses (11 euros a night!!!), we opted for that instead. To be fair, you get what you pay for, hot water wasn't guaranteed and the decor was a bit dated. But hey, that’s not why we were there, and we spent most of our time out and about anyway. In any case, as you walk through the city streets, you’ll pass plenty of B&Bs, hotels, and guesthouses. I think you’ll definitely find something that suits you, especially if you book a bit in advance, as the summer season draws a huge crowd to Edinburgh. Here is a link to an Edinburgh hotel comparator.
Visiting the city's must-sees
Tip: get an Edinburgh Pass
The first thing to do when you arrive: buy the Edinburgh Pass. You choose the duration for your (short) stay, with one, two, or three-day options available depending on the package you pick. It’s truly a golden city pass. For one thing, it includes maps (bus, city, etc.) like a "tourist kit." For another, it includes discount vouchers or free entry, which saves you money and sometimes time waiting in lines. Finally, the pass covers the airport-to-city shuttle, which is a great convenience to have taken care of. All the info is available on the official Scotland tourism website, and it’s fun to use, too!
Edinburgh Castle
Beyond the pubs and entertainment, the city offers castles, museums, art galleries, palaces, historic buildings, and gardens to explore. You can even visit the royal family's yacht!
Even though I have to admit we didn't get through half of our planned "historical" visits (the nights out were a bit harder to manage than we’d anticipated because the Scots sure know how to party…), we did manage to visit the famous Edinburgh Castle. The Castle’s website will teach you a lot about its history.
It has dominated the city for 900 years and is woven into the history of Edinburgh and Scotland. The British Crown has used it for various purposes: storing the Crown Jewels, housing the Scottish crown, and serving as a garrison and prison. While the exterior is impressive with its dark colors, massive scale, and austere facade, the interior is well worth a look. You can also see Mons Meg, a huge 15th-century siege cannon. A tea room (there’s also a restaurant and a bookstore) lets you sit down and enjoy a bit of calm amidst the city's hustle and bustle. Every day at 1:00 PM, a cannon is fired from the castle.
Calton Hill
The city is teeming with other things to see, whether in the "Old Town" or the modern city, which is the true cultural and artistic heart of Scotland. For example, if you aren't too bitter, you can go see the monument in honor of Admiral Nelson, who died at the Battle of Trafalgar in 1805, where he crushed the French navy. The monument looks like an upside-down telescope. The view of the city from Calton Hill is superb and well worth the climb up the stairs!
The Royal Yacht Britannia
And we couldn't resist the pleasure of treating ourselves, a bit mockingly, I confess, to a tour of the famous royal yacht. The Britannia is docked in the historic port of Leith, near the city center.
The ship’s silhouette emerges as you get closer. The Union Jack flies proudly at the bow and on the masts. You start with a mini-exhibition and then wander through the boat, visiting the royal apartments, including the reception lounge used for distinguished guests during state visits. The bridge tour is also impressive: everything is gleaming and orderly. In fact, the entire ship is perfect: the teak decks, the brass fittings… If you want to plan your visit, head to the official Britannia website.
You can even have tea on the upper deck and admire the view. You’ll have to shell out a few extra "pounds," though, because the view and the beauty of the place come at a price…
Other attractions
We had also spotted some museums and palaces before leaving for Scotland, but we didn't have time to do them… I’m mentioning them anyway because they are must-sees in Edinburgh, according to all the guidebooks we consulted: there’s the Palace of Holyroodhouse, which is the Queen’s residence. It’s worth the detour, especially if you’re interested in the country’s history, as there are clearly many museums and exhibitions on the subject. There’s also the National Museum of Scotland. We had also planned to see the famous Arthur’s Seat. You end up at the top of a volcano… an extinct one, of course. I hear the view is splendid. Those who make the trek can confirm it for us!
Going out in Edinburgh
For the rest, the city offers an incredible number of shops that will delight any shopaholic. In the evening, you’ll likely run into "wizards" out and about, especially in the medieval part of town. Don't be surprised, and above all, don't be scared: these are what are known as "ghost tours." In fact, some tour operators have specialized in this, riding the wave of success from the "Harry Potter" books, which were written in an Edinburgh café. They offer themed guided tours of the Old Town, like the company Mercattours.
For our part, we were most struck by the impressive number of pubs, such as those found on the Royal Mile. Going to the pub is an institution. The atmosphere is always great, and even if people are sometimes loud or bumping into each other, it always ends over a pint. Music is often part of the evening, and it’s not rare to see young people in kilts, especially during festival season.
We were lucky enough to catch some concerts at the Royal Oak Pub on Infirmary Street. We recommend it, but it’s not the only spot. Either way, you’ll quickly realize that they’re all packed and the atmosphere is always top-notch.
Those looking for a good meal will find it easily, as there are restaurants serving Scottish cuisine everywhere. Some bars do it too. For instance, The Sygn, which is very well-known and highly regarded (and for which you apparently need a reservation, we must have been quite lucky!), has a killer cocktail menu!!! You can also find hearty Scottish meals that will fill you up without a problem.
Know that you eat well there, and contrary to what I imagined, it’s quite refined. For enthusiasts, many dishes are accompanied by whisky, in sauces or marinades. Don't be afraid: the alcohol is always balanced by seasonings that I found precise and subtle, which softens the whole dish.
The Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo
Otherwise, as I mentioned in the title, we also went to attend the very famous Military Tattoo. This grand performance takes place once a year, at the beginning of August. It lasts for three weeks and attracts tourists from all over the world, in addition to the Scots.
The "Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo" is an international military music festival that began in 1950. Since then, the show has evolved, and every year, more than two hundred thousand people make the trip. One hundred million viewers follow the televised broadcast.
The various pipe bands perform within the walls of Edinburgh Castle, on a stage set up around massive grandstands. It’s not just pipes anymore; there are now singers, sometimes acrobats, and dancers, all performing to the sound of bagpipes. If you want authentic Scotland, you’ll get your money’s worth!
If you want to get an idea of what it’s like or if you want to book your tickets (and I highly recommend it, as the event is very popular), you can check out this website.
In any case, this event creates a unique atmosphere throughout the city of Edinburgh: the streets are buzzing, the pubs are packed, and kilts are worn proudly. It’s truly festive, and the Scots welcome foreigners with open arms.
Other summer festivals
For your information, once the Military Tattoo ends, Edinburgh follows up with its "International Festival," where artists (dance, fashion, classical and modern music) showcase their work. The festival also lasts three weeks and ends on a high note with a grand concert and incredible pyrotechnics.
Alongside this festival, a "counter-festival" is organized: the "Fringe." During this time, the city streets are transformed into performance spaces. Almost every art form is represented here too, and you’ll witness some improbable and incredible acts. Our hosts told us that this festival is so popular that they have no trouble renting out their rooms, and it’s the same for everyone: all accommodations, including youth hostels and nearby campsites, are packed to the rafters. In fact, they explained that during the summer, Edinburgh becomes THE European cultural capital! And they weren't far from claiming it might even be the world capital of culture during that period…
Still, some city residents prefer to go away during August and September rather than stay in Edinburgh. Regardless, as I said before, even if there are tons of tourists and few places where you can find yourself alone during this time, the atmosphere is truly excellent.
In short, as you’ve probably gathered, our three days there flew by at lightning speed, and we promised ourselves we’d go back! This city is simply incredibly lively and active. It also makes you want to visit the rest of the country…
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