Hiking Adam’s Peak (Sri Pada) by Night

Getting Ready

When I head off on a trip, the adventurer in me sometimes resurfaces. Even though I’m usually quite sensible and not much of a risk-taker, I always end up doing absurd things like eating spiders in Cambodia or firing a Kalashnikov in Budapest. During my trip to Sri Lanka, my madness was physical this time: I wanted to reach the summit of Adam’s Peak.

I already knew it would be at least a 3-hour climb, and since I’m not exactly a fitness buff, it was going to be a decent challenge, same for my friend who came along. But despite all my reading on the subject, I don’t think I was prepared for an experience quite like this!

First off, since the goal was to reach the summit of Sri Pada (to use the local name) in time for sunrise, we had to start the climb at night. Having set up camp in Hatton for a few days, we had a good hour-long tuk-tuk ride (sleeping bag included for the night!) before arriving at our starting point: Dalhousie. With our backpacks full of supplies and our motivation at an all-time high, it was time to go!

The Night Climb

It starts off gently, the stars are inspiring, and in the pitch black of night, we look at the tiny lights lining the path in the distance, thinking, "The summit looks a bit far!" But nothing could stop us now.

Wait, the steps are getting steeper. Wait, they aren't even; I sometimes have to use my hands to help myself up. I’m getting hotter and hotter (despite the cold that bites more as we climb), my bag feels heavy, I’m catching my breath more and more, and my breaks are becoming more frequent! But the summit just seems to get more and more unreachable!

My friend and I had intended to do something sweet for our loved ones back home, we’d written their names on pieces of paper and wanted to take photos along the way to show we were thinking of them and add a spiritual touch to our pilgrimage. I can tell you, we quickly abandoned that idea! Partly because just stopping made us feel the cold at that altitude, and honestly, I quickly forgot about my friends and family, focused solely on the idea of reaching the top before I died of exhaustion.

After 2 hours and 45 minutes to cover those 7 kilometers, we catch a glimpse of the summit, and I have to say I hold back a little tear because, frankly, I felt like we’d never make it! But once there, we face a new problem: space is extremely limited, and it’s already packed with locals camping out who made the climb during the day and are dozing under their blankets while waiting for dawn. We find a little corner to huddle together and try to find some warmth while waiting for the promised sunrise.

It’s almost time. The temple drums start to sound. We turn toward the East and… well, we can’t see anything. Just people. And cameras held high above their heads. All this journey for nothing? No way! I’m someone who has to force myself to go for a 30-minute run back home in Paris; I certainly didn't endure the staircase from hell for nothing! I then spot a corner of a low wall with a trash can that could serve as a step, and in less than a minute, I was perched above everyone else with the best view possible!

It might not have been the most beautiful sunrise of my life, but it was clearly the most well-earned! That said, for me, the greatest reward was finally seeing the landscape surrounding us, the mountains, the lakes, the forest… During the climb, between the darkness limiting your view, watching the ground to place your feet, and the physical exertion, you kind of forget your environment. That’s when you can truly realize how much you’ve climbed, and it’s truly magnificent.

The Descent

If the climb was grueling, I never thought the descent could be worse! Because after ringing the bell at the summit, you have to think about heading back down. Other longer or wilder paths are possible, but fatigue encouraged us to take the path back to Dalhousie. Fortunately, because it was the shortest, yet it still felt like I was descending for an eternity: I assure you that from the very first steps down, my calves wanted to explode and my knees were shaking. And the descent is practically as long as the climb, with the sun, heat, and muscle aches added on top!

My Recommendations

• Bring some food supplies to give yourself a bit of energy, but above all, water! It’s possible to buy some during the climb, even if it’s a bit pricier than usual. At least it saves you from carrying too much weight.
• Bring a change of t-shirt if you do the night climb because you’ll be hot and likely soaked in sweat, but once at the summit, it will be cold and you’ll be glad to put on dry clothes. A warm jacket is also a must!
• Do the night climb for the sunrise and to discover the landscape. Aside from the tiny temple, there isn't much else to do at the summit (other than congratulate yourself for making it!).
• In high season, the path is well-lit, but a small headlamp can be useful for certain areas that are less illuminated or more difficult.
• Try to spot my little corner of the wall for THE view. Facing East, it’s on your right behind a small gate. Once you spot it, it’s easy to perch two people there and enjoy the view in peace.