Saudi Arabia, the giant stepping out of the shadows
The red sand of AlUla crunches beneath your boots. Right in front of you stand Nabataean tombs carved into the rock two millennia ago, just as majestic as those at Petra, but without the crowds.
Welcome to Saudi Arabia, a country four times the size of France that started opening its doors to tourists in 2019. Here, the futuristic skyscrapers of Riyadh sit alongside ancient oases, the protected coral reefs of the Red Sea rival the Maldives, and the local hospitality hits you with its sheer generosity.
A kingdom that is not for everyone
This country fascinates as much as it raises questions. If you dream of archaeological sites preserved from mass tourism, diving in crystal-clear waters that remain untouched, or dramatic desert roads, Saudi Arabia will reward you. Fans of adventure, road trips, and those who value authentic connections with locals will find an exceptional playground here.
Saudis show a genuine curiosity toward foreign visitors and practice sincere hospitality, spontaneously offering Arabic coffee and dates.
On the flip side, this trip is not for everyone. Alcohol is strictly prohibited throughout the country, including in international hotels. Public displays of affection are banned. The LGBTQ+ community should know that homosexuality is severely punished.
The country remains conservative despite recent reforms, and tourist infrastructure is still limited outside the major cities. If you are looking for a party destination or struggle with extreme heat, skip this spot.
Can women travel solo in Saudi Arabia?
The answer is yes. Since 2019, women no longer need a male guardian to travel in the country. The black abaya is no longer mandatory for foreign female tourists. However, modest attire is still expected: shoulders and knees covered, and clothes that are not too tight.
In major cities like Jeddah or in AlUla, norms are shifting quickly. Solo female travelers generally report positive experiences marked by respect and local curiosity rather than harassment. For religious sites like mosques open to visitors, a headscarf is necessary.
Mecca and Medina: off-limits to non-Muslims
This is a non-negotiable point. Mecca and Medina, the two holy cities of Islam, remain strictly closed to non-Muslims. Checkpoints are set up at city entrances. Plan your itinerary accordingly.
A budget that requires serious planning
Saudi Arabia is not a cheap destination. Count $59 to $94* per day for a mid-budget traveler: decent hotel stays between $47 and $117* a night, local meals from $3.50 to $12*, and site admissions between $5.90 and $30*. The e-visa costs about $140* and includes basic insurance. The vast distances often require domestic flights or car rentals, which drives up the bill.
Archaeological treasures that rival Petra
AlUla stands out as the country's tourism crown jewel. This northwestern valley is home to Hegra, Saudi Arabia's first UNESCO World Heritage site. More than 110 monumental tombs carved into the sandstone by the Nabataeans in the first century AD rise up from the desert. These same artisans built Petra in Jordan, but Hegra receives a tiny fraction of the visitors. The facades adorned with columns and funerary friezes tell the story of a merchant civilization that controlled the incense routes.
Visiting Hegra requires an organized tour, either in an air-conditioned bus or a vintage Land Rover for a more immersive experience. Rates start at 95 SAR. Hot air balloons flying over the site at sunrise offer a memorable but expensive spectacle. Beyond Hegra, AlUla reveals an abandoned mud-brick old town, the giant pachyderm-shaped Elephant Rock, and Jabal Ikmah, an open-air library covered in thousands of ancient inscriptions.
Friendly tip: book your visits on the official Experience AlUla website several weeks in advance, especially between December and March. Slots fill up fast.
Diriyah and the birthplace of the kingdom
Right outside Riyadh, the At-Turaif district in Diriyah marks the birth of modern Saudi Arabia. This UNESCO site showcases the restored ruins of the first Saudi capital, featuring mud-brick palaces and mosques. The area is undergoing a massive revitalization project and now hosts upscale restaurants and cultural spaces on the Bujairi terrace.
The Red Sea coast, the Middle East's best-kept secret
Forget Sharm el-Sheikh and its hordes of tourists. The Saudi Red Sea coast remains largely untouched, featuring healthy coral reefs and underwater visibility that can reach 40 metres. Umluj, often called the "Maldives of Arabia," features an archipelago of over 100 islands with turquoise waters bordered by white sand. Scuba divers and snorkelers discover over 300 coral species and 1200 fish species here, some of which are endemic to the Red Sea.
Infrastructure remains basic compared to established resort destinations. That is precisely what gives the place its charm. Tour ferries are banned in the Red Sea Project zone, leaving the beaches in absolute calm. Boat excursions to islands like Jabal Hassan let you swim with turtles, spot dugongs, and occasionally see dolphins. Advanced divers will love the wrecks and drop-offs near Al Wajh.
Yanbu and Jeddah have established dive centers for those who prefer guided setups. The Jeddah corniche offers a pleasant evening walk once the heat drops.
Jeddah, the gateway to the sea
More cosmopolitan and relaxed than Riyadh, Jeddah wins you over with its easygoing vibe. The historic district of Al-Balad deserves half a day of wandering. Its coral houses with carved wooden balconies, known as mashrabiyas, create a photogenic labyrinth recognized by UNESCO. Spice and fabric merchants carry on a trading tradition that goes back centuries.
The modern city features skyscrapers, air-conditioned malls, and restaurants of every cuisine. This is where dress codes are at their most flexible. Saudi women enjoy relative freedom here compared to the rest of the country. The newly developed waterfront is a great spot to catch the sea breeze at the end of the day.
The desert and its dizzying cliffs
An hour's drive from Riyadh, Jebel Fihrayn, known as the Edge of the World, offers a striking panorama. This 300-metre cliff towers over a canyon that stretches out as far as the eye can see, a remnant of an ancient seabed. Access requires a 4x4 and ideally a local guide. Sunset here brings unreal shades of color.
The Rub al-Khali desert, or Empty Quarter, is the largest continuous sand expanse on the planet. Its red and orange dunes stretch for hundreds of kilometres. A few camps offer nights under the stars in Bedouin tradition. The experience is rustic but memorable for anyone willing to embrace complete isolation.
To the south, the Asir region and its green mountains break up the country's desert image. Abha and Taif offer mild temperatures even in summer, perched villages with colorful architecture, and surprising vegetation. Wild baboons occasionally cross paths with visitors here.
Saudi dining: generosity and spices
Kabsa reigns supreme on Saudi tables. This national dish combines long grain rice flavored with cardamom, cinnamon, cumin, and black lime, topped with slow-cooked meat. Whether chicken or lamb, portions are generous and served on large shared platters. In traditional restaurants, you eat sitting on floor cushions using your right hand. Saudis are the world's largest consumers of chicken, and kabsa partly explains that stat.
Mandi, a Yemeni cousin of kabsa, stands out thanks to its slow cooking in an underground pit that gives the meat unmatched tenderness. Mezze often accompanies meals: hummus, falafels, stuffed grape leaves. Dates are everywhere, coming in dozens of varieties. Arabic coffee, spiced with cardamom and served in small handleless cups, caps off every gathering. Refusing it is considered rude.
For tight budgets, local diners serve plates of rice and chicken for 8 to 15 SAR, roughly $2.40 to $4.70*. Street food exists but is less developed than elsewhere in the Middle East.
When to visit Saudi Arabia?
The ideal window runs from November to March. Temperatures hover between 20 and 28°C in most regions, making exploration comfortable. Nights in the desert can get chilly, so pack a jacket. This is also peak tourism season, featuring cultural events like Winter at Tantora in AlUla or festivals in Riyadh.
Summer, from May to September, brings crushing heat regularly exceeding 45°C. Only the southwestern mountain regions like Abha stay manageable. Ramadan, with dates shifting each year, complicates travel: restaurants close during the day and the daily rhythm flips. Unless you want to experience that spiritual period firsthand, skip these months.
How to get to Saudi Arabia?
Saudia, the national carrier, operates direct flights from Paris to Riyadh and Jeddah. Flight time hovers around 6 hours. Air France also serves these destinations. Gulf carriers like Emirates, Qatar Airways, and Etihad offer connections through their respective hubs, often at competitive prices. In winter, a direct flight connects Paris to AlUla.
Expect between $470 and $940* for a round-trip depending on the season and how early you book. Budget airlines like Wizz Air fly to Jeddah and Riyadh from certain European cities, but their reliability can be hit or miss.
The e-visa is easy to get online through the official Visit Saudi website in a few days. It costs around $140*, includes insurance, and allows multiple entries for a year with a maximum stay of 90 days. French citizens are among the eligible nationalities.
How to get around Saudi Arabia?
Vast distances make domestic flights necessary for jumping between major regions. Saudia, Flynas, and Flyadeal cover the country with reasonable rates. The Riyadh-AlUla flight takes 1h30 compared to a 12-hour drive.
Renting a car gives you the freedom to explore at your own pace. Main highways are top-notch and well-signed. Gas costs a fraction of European prices. Budget, Lumi, and international agencies operate at airports. Note that mileage caps are common in contracts, so negotiate before you sign. Local driving style can catch you off guard with its boldness.
SAPTCO buses connect major cities cheaply, with online booking options. The rail network remains in its infancy. In cities, Careem and Uber run smoothly, saving you from haggling with traditional taxis. Urban public transit is developing slowly, notably the Riyadh metro which is still under construction.
