Visiting San Sebastián
San Sebastián, or Donostia in Basque, sits in the Basque Autonomous Community in Spain. Founded in 1180 by the King of Navarre as a maritime gateway to the Cantabrian Sea, the city survived multiple European conflicts, fires, and a devastating blaze in 1813 before rebuilding. Its golden age arrived later during the Belle Époque. Several historic center landmarks around the Plaza de la Constitución, including the Victoria Eugenia Theater and the Hotel Maria Cristina, recall an era when Queen Regent Maria Cristina used San Sebastián as her summer residence alongside the Spanish court at the Miramar Palace.
An Elegant Seaside City
San Sebastián is often praised for pairing the architectural and culinary scale of global hubs like Paris or New York in a much more intimate setting. The city is renowned for its pintxos, the local take on Basque tapas. Belle Époque details draw visitors in, alongside landmarks like the San Telmo Museum, which showcases Basque culture inside a 16th-century Dominican convent.
The Bay of Concha serves as Donostia-San Sebastián's main draw. Framed by Mount Igeldo and Mount Urgull, the bay displays striking shades of blue for strollers walking along the Concha promenade, the pedestrian walkway bordering the waterfront.
For newer architecture, the Kursaal Palace stands out as a striking contemporary complex designed by Rafael Moneo that functions as both a performing arts venue and a convention center.
Between Sea and Mountains
San Sebastián features three urban beaches. La Concha Beach is the central city beach, while Ondarreta Beach sits further west with a calmer family atmosphere. Following the path leads to the Comb of the Wind, a massive steel sculpture by Basque artists Chillida and Peña Gantxegi embedded in the rocks, where built-in pipes whistle with incoming waves and wind. To the east, Zurriola Beach faces more open ocean and attracts surfers.
Hike up Mount Urgull and Mount Igeldo for elevated viewpoints over the bay. A historic funicular also runs from the Ondarreta neighborhood straight to the summit of Mount Igeldo.
When to Go
Late spring, particularly May and June, offers ideal weather while avoiding peak summer crowds. August is the prime month for swimming. September brings a surge of energy to the streets during the annual International Film Festival.
How to Get There
San Sebastián sits about twenty kilometres from the French border. While the city has its own airport in Hondarribia, Biarritz and Bilbao handle significantly more flights, with direct buses running just over an hour from Bilbao. Leave the car behind once you arrive, as the city is best explored on foot or via its network of over 50 kilometres of bike lanes.
I went there in July for a day trip from the southwest of France. I really loved walking around the old town, with its narrow and very lively streets. The Plaza de la Constitución, with its numbered balconies, is a must-see.
After a picnic on the beautiful La Concha beach, I took a small, very unique hillside funicular to climb to the top of Mount Igueldo. The panoramic view of the bay is magnificent and worth the climb all on its own. There is also a small park up there that offers individual rides. It is family-friendly, and I recommend the little boats that offer different perspectives of the bay along the course. A small downside, I did not find the local Spanish people to be very warm.