Rossano, the Byzantine city scented with licorice
Perched on its Calabrian promontory, Rossano blends the fragrant, earthy notes of a centuries-old licorice factory with the golden stone of a Byzantine cathedral. Few Italian towns manage to pair such deep religious heritage with a family industry known across the globe. Here, history is not just found in guidebooks, it is something you breathe in on every corner.
Is this destination for you?
Do you prefer towns that haven't been sanitized for mass tourism? If you are looking for a rare mix of Byzantine culture, local craftsmanship, and Ionian beaches just a ten-minute drive away, Rossano hits the mark.
However, if you are expecting a high-octane nightlife or a massive selection of hotels, it is best to look elsewhere. The town moves at its own pace, the rhythm of a Calabrian village where everything shuts down between 1 PM and 4 PM.
Best for:
- Fans of Byzantine history and religious heritage
- Travelers curious about local crafts (licorice, traditional pastries)
- Road trips that combine mountains and the Ionian coast
Not for you if:
- You are looking for a lively nightlife scene
- You are traveling without a car, as local transit is limited
An accessible budget compared to the rest of Italy
| Item | Range |
|---|---|
| Night in a B&B or simple hotel | 35 to 55 € (about $38 to $60) |
| Night in a comfortable seaside hotel | 70 to 110 € (about $76 to $120) |
| Quick meal (arancini, panino) | 4 to 8 € (about $4 to $9) |
| Restaurant meal with fresh fish | 20 to 35 € (about $22 to $38) |
Estimated rates subject to change
Practical realities before you go
English is rare outside of major tourist hubs, so prepare a few phrases in Italian for shops and family-run inns. The city has two distinct faces: the centro storico perched on the hill and Rossano Scalo, the modern seaside section about 6 kilometers (nearly 4 miles) away.
The Calabrian summer hits hard, with temperatures frequently climbing above 35 degrees Celsius (95 degrees Fahrenheit) in July and August. The historic center, full of stairs and cobbled alleys, requires good shoes and a bit of stamina.
The historic center, the Byzantine memory of Calabria
Rossano was a major Byzantine hub in Southern Italy, and its centro storico still tells that story. The cathédrale de Maria Santissima Achiropita dominates the main square, housing an icon that local tradition claims was painted without human hands, which is how it got its name.
Nearby, the tiny église de la Panaghia, topped with typical round Byzantine domes, is one of the oldest religious buildings in Calabria still standing. It only takes a few minutes to walk through, but its stony silence is worth the stop.
The Museo Diocesano holds the town's greatest treasure: the Codex Purpureus Rossanensis, a 6th-century gospel book illuminated on purple parchment and inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage site. Few Italian visitors know this manuscript exists, making it an especially striking discovery.
Friendly advice: visit the centro storico early in the morning, before the shops open. The low light hitting the ochre facades and the quiet of the alleys offer the most authentic experience of the town.
The empire of Amarelli licorice
The Amarelli family has been producing licorice in Rossano since the 18th century, a rare industrial success story in Calabria. The Museo della Liquirizia Giorgio Amarelli, located inside the still-active family factory, tells this saga through antique machinery, archives, and tastings.
The adjacent shop sells their famous black lozenges and modern variations (mint, orange, fennel). It is a more original souvenir than a postcard, and much more local.
Rossano Scalo and the Ionian coast
The lower part of the city, along the sea, features fine sandy beaches like the Lido Sant'Angelo, popular with families for its shallow water. The vibe here is distinctly more beach-oriented, with beach clubs and fish restaurants open primarily from June through September.
Where to eat and drink in Rossano?
Try the pitta 'mpigliata, a rolled pastry with walnuts, raisins, and honey, which is typical of Rossano and traditionally served at Christmas. Restaurants in the centro storico also serve fresh pasta with seasonal vegetables, while Rossano Scalo focuses on fish caught the same morning.
Do not leave town without trying a dessert or drink featuring Amarelli licorice, a surprisingly versatile ingredient in local pastry making.
Where to stay in Rossano and the surrounding area?
The centro storico has several B&Bs tucked into old buildings, perfect for the atmosphere but sometimes difficult to reach by car due to the narrow streets. In Rossano Scalo and at the Lido Sant'Angelo, the hotel options are more classic and closer to the beaches, which is convenient for a seaside vacation.
How to get to Rossano?
The nearest airport is Crotone, about an hour's drive away, with a few direct flights from Northern Italy and some European cities depending on the season. Lamezia Terme airport, which is busier and better connected from the rest of Europe, is about 1 hour and 45 minutes away by car.
The Ionian railway line connects Rossano Scalo to major Calabrian cities, but connections from abroad remain lengthy. A rental car is the most flexible solution for exploring the region.
How to get around Rossano?
The historic center is best seen entirely on foot, as its narrow alleys are essentially impassable for cars. To reach the coast or the surrounding villages, a car is essential, as local buses are infrequent and mostly used for school or work commutes.
When to go?
Spring (April-May) and early autumn (September-October) offer the best conditions: pleasant heat, water still warm enough for swimming in September, and moderate crowds. Avoid August, when the heat becomes stifling and the coastal beaches fill up with Italian tourists on vacation.
