Budapest, the capital where you swim in the dead of winter
It is 8:00 AM, the air bites at minus five degrees, and yet a dozen locals are playing chess, immersed up to their shoulders in an open-air steaming pool. Pale yellow neo-baroque columns, a smell of sulfur mixed with steam. Welcome to the Hungarian capital: a sense of contrast pushed to the extreme, between imperial grandeur and relaxed daily life, between majestic facades and courtyards carpeted with graffiti.
A destination that fits you?
If you like combining cultural visits in the morning, afternoon relaxation in thermal waters, and lively evenings in eccentric bars, this city is for you. Three days are enough to catch the essentials, five days to truly appreciate the pace.
Great destination for:
- Architecture and history enthusiasts, from Art Nouveau to neo-gothic
- Thermal bath and wellness fans, with over 120 thermal springs
- Partygoers and fans of creative nightlife
- Travelers on a moderate budget looking for a large, accessible European capital
Not ideal for:
- Those who hate crowds: the thermal baths and downtown are very busy, especially in the summer
- Beach lovers and wilderness fans: this is primarily an urban destination
An easy budget for a European capital
The local currency is the Hungarian forint. Credit cards are accepted almost everywhere, but always pay in forints, never in euros, to avoid unfavorable rates. Avoid Euronet ATMs, which are notorious for steep commissions.
| Expense item | Estimated range |
|---|---|
| Hostel dorm bed | $12 to $23* |
| 3-star hotel room, downtown | $68 to $124* |
| Quick bite on the go | $3.40 to $6.80* |
| Sit-down restaurant meal | $12 to $23* |
| Transit plus one activity | $12 to $29* |
| Backpacker daily budget | $34 to $57* |
| Comfortable daily budget | $90 to $146* |
Practical side, what to expect?
The public transit system is excellent, featuring 4 metro lines, 40 tram lines, and over 200 bus lines. Pest is very walkable. The city is safe, requiring only the standard precautions of any major European capital. Just watch out for classic bar scams, where attractive women invite men inside before hitting them with an outrageous bill.
Hungarian is a complex language unrelated to its neighbors, but English is widely spoken in tourist zones and by younger generations.
Buda, the royal riverbank and its panoramas
On the west bank, the Castle Hill concentrates the imperial heritage. The funicular climbs up to Várhegy, where cobblestone alleys lead to the royal palace and the Matthias Church, recognizable by its multicolored glazed tile roof. Right next door, the Fisherman's Bastion offers the most photographed panorama in the city.
Friendly tip: arrive before 8:00 AM to enjoy the Bastion practically to yourself. By 9:30 AM, tour groups flood the area.
Further south, Gellért Hill towers over the river. Down below, the Gellért Baths stand as an Art Nouveau masterpiece complete with mosaics and stained glass. For a more intimate vibe, the 16th-century Ottoman domed Rudas Turkish baths host late-night swims overlooking the Danube.
Pest, from grand boulevards to ruin bars
The Line 2 tram, which runs along the river, offers one of the most spectacular urban commutes in Europe for the price of a transit ticket. The St. Stephen's Basilica delivers an impressive 360-degree view from its dome. The Parliament, with its neo-gothic spires, showcases the sheer scale of the former Austro-Hungarian Empire.
World-heritage-listed Andrássy út avenue leads to Heroes' Square and then to Városliget park, where the Széchenyi Baths, Europe's largest thermal bath complex, await in a lemon-yellow palace setting.
Friendly tip: book your skip-the-line tickets for Széchenyi online, especially between May and September. Without a reservation, expect to wait an hour easily.
Erzsébetváros, memory and buzz
The 7th district hosts the Dohány Street Great Synagogue, one of the largest in the world. Around it, the courtyards of rundown apartment buildings have morphed into bars and galleries known as ruin pubs. The most famous, Szimpla Kert, draws heavy crowds every night, though the adjacent alleys hide much quieter spots.
Friendly tip: drop by Szimpla Kert on Sunday morning instead of at night because the space hosts a local farmers' market featuring honey, jams, and artisan cheeses. The vibe is entirely different.
Where to eat and drink in Budapest?
Hungarian cuisine is hearty and flavorful. Gulyás, a thick beef and paprika soup, is the national dish. Also try pörkölt and lángos, a deep-fried flatbread topped with sour cream and cheese that reigns as a market star. Kürtőskalács, spit-roasted cinnamon chimney cakes, fill the streets with their aroma starting in autumn.
On the drink side, whites from Tokaj and reds from Eger are worth seeking out. The cafe scene balances grand historic literary cafes with independent third-wave roasters.
How to get to Budapest?
From Paris, direct flights take about 2 hours and 15 minutes. Air France, Wizz Air, Ryanair, and easyJet handle the route, with round trips starting around $45* when booked early. From Vienna or Bratislava, FlixBus coaches or RegioJet trains take 2.5 to 3 hours.
From Ferenc Liszt Airport, the 100E express bus reaches downtown in 35 minutes for roughly 2,200 HUF. This bus is not included in standard transit passes. Uber and Bolt are also available.
How to get around Budapest?
Pest is easy to explore on foot. For longer distances, the network of subway, tram, and bus lines is dense and reliable. A single ticket costs around 450 HUF, while a day pass runs 2,500 HUF. The Budapest GO app lets you purchase tickets, sometimes at a discounted rate.
Uber and Bolt work well and remain inexpensive. Avoid hailing street taxis, and instead stick to ordering via apps. Having a car in the city is pointless.
When to go?
Spring and autumn are the best periods, offering mild weather, great colors, and reasonable crowds. Winter brings a unique atmosphere with Christmas markets and steaming baths under the snow. July and August heatwaves, often exceeding 35°C, are best avoided if possible.
It is not bad, and it is a really interesting city. I will not comment on the current political direction of the country (it is not really my side, there, I said it!), but the country's history is really interesting. By the way, Mate, a local guide who organizes free walking tours (you pay by tip) via Civitatis, summed things up well for us: a fairly tragic succession of invaders, chased out by other "liberators/invaders" who raze the city every time to take possession of the place. I found that fascinating, and it explains why the oldest buildings only date back to the 19th century. For example, the old Habsburg Palace is a reconstruction, and not quite finished either.
So:
- A city whose architecture will surprise you with sumptuous Art Nouveau and Art Deco buildings sitting right next to Soviet-era eyesores.
- Nice thermal baths to relax in, even outdoors in April because the pools are heated (heads up, the large outdoor pool at Széchenyi is under renovation until June).
- Food that is not very varied, but it fills you up (I am thinking in particular of goulash and langos).
- The concept of ruin bars, which have popped up elsewhere in Europe, but are truly surprising: a mix of beer garden, nightclub, and artist loft.