What happens in Vegas, stays in Vegas!
TRUE, when it comes to the many sins you might find yourself committing in this city of unbridled exuberance and madness.
FALSE, when it comes to the many natural treasures scattered across the arid, desert lands of Nevada. These deserve to be brought into the light and shared with as many people as possible, especially nature lovers and those in search of well-being!
Because, yes, Nevada is not just Las Vegas and its endless slot machines; it is also a state rich in natural jewels and hidden gems that most of you likely don't even know exist, yet which turn out to be truly beautiful surprises.
That is why it would be a crime to head to Las Vegas without planning a relaxing and rejuvenating detour to these various spots I am about to reveal. Unlike the artificial nature of the gambling and entertainment empire, these places seem to have remained as they were at the dawn of time, pristine and untouched by human footprints!
So, for those who are interested, ditch the sequined dresses and poker chips, and follow me on a mind-blowing journey to the heart of the Earth!
1/ Lake Mead
That September afternoon, as we had just arrived at the pool of our sumptuous hotel (the Stratosphere Las Vegas), we felt a sense of anxiety and awkwardness amidst all the waitresses in swimsuits and high heels and jet-setters with "bling-bling" necklaces. We felt the need to escape the agitation and exuberance to take refuge outside the city in a wilder place. Where? We didn't know yet; the idea was to take our car and set off to discover the desert vastness that surrounds "Sin City."
And it was by pure chance, after driving for about thirty minutes southeast of Las Vegas, that the road suddenly revealed a breathtaking and striking panoramic view of a huge lake with turquoise waters bordered by ochre and white rocks: the majestic Lake Mead in all its splendor!
Captivated by such beauty and seized by an irrepressible curiosity, we decided to go and see up close the one whose smooth, shimmering waters were catching our eye and calling out to us, almost like an invitation for a quick refreshment! By the way, a little refreshment was welcome at that exact moment, given the blazing sun and the outside temperature, which was hovering around 113°F (45°C)! And in a convertible, let me tell you, you really feel it!
So we let ourselves be seduced, and that’s how, by continuing our route and following the signs, we arrived at the entrance to this exceptional site: the Lake Mead National Recreation Area, the exact address of which is: Lake Mead Visitor Center, 10 Lakeshore Rd, Boulder City, NV 89005 (about 35 minutes from Las Vegas by car).
Now, as "all dreams have a price" (according to Marc Levy), the dream of getting a closer look at this little natural gem comes at a cost, as indicated by the official website of the lake, for the modest sum of $25 per vehicle, $20 per motorcycle, or $15 if you are on foot or by bike. Be aware that this entrance ticket is valid for 7 consecutive days! Given the extraordinary landscape that awaited us, there was, of course, no question of counting pennies, we just had to go for it!
So, you will certainly ask me this inevitable question: "How do you explain the presence of such a lake in this arid, desert expanse?"
Well, before going further in my story, I suggest a little "info point" to better understand the essence and the very existence of this exceptional site.
A lake of artificial origin
Located on the border of Nevada and Arizona, Lake Mead is unfortunately not a gift from God or Mother Nature! It is, however, a purely artificial human creation, which owes its existence in particular to the Hoover hydroelectric dam, erected in the 1930s on the Colorado River with the goal of ending the river's floods and producing electricity through the power of water.
The dam now produces electricity not only for Las Vegas but also for Nevada, Arizona, and California. The lake supplies these same regions via an aqueduct, thus meeting the irrigation, recreational, and drinking water needs of more than 20 million people!
An exorbitant figure, but not so much when you know the impressive dimensions of the lake, which stretches proudly for 112 miles (180 km) upstream from the dam, has 550 miles (885 km) of shoreline, covers an area of 247 square miles (640 km²), and contains 32,236 cubic kilometers of water, making it the largest artificial lake in the world and the largest water reservoir in the United States when full.
Something that, unfortunately, hasn't happened since 1983 due to drought caused by global warming and the increase in water demand. Filled to only 35% of its maximum capacity, the lake's longevity is threatened.
Moreover, this continuous drop in the lake's level is bringing an old ghost town back to the surface: Saint Thomas, a pioneer town that was evacuated in 1936 following the filling of the lake.
Vengeance of the grim souls of this town swallowed under tons of water, or divine punishment for a population too greedy for water?
One thing is certain: if no solution is found in the coming years, Lake Mead could well become nothing more than a mirage in this desert region, similar to those seen by lost and thirsty souls in the middle of the desert!
A sadly tragic reality when you know the splendor of this lake that takes your breath away at first glance! Indeed, how can one remain unmoved before this turquoise water that gently caresses the flanks of immense lunar rock blocks displaying black, red, orange, ochre, and white colors, like a painting by the greatest masters?
How, too, can one do without a lake that offers its visitor a myriad of water activities, such as jet-skiing, paddleboarding, water skiing, boat excursions, or simply a good swim, all in water reaching between 77 and 86°F (25 and 30°C) in summer?
Not to mention the various "scenic drives" that allow you to penetrate the desert, canyons, and colorful rugged mountains that surround the lake and discover sublime landscapes with red-orange colors, typical of Arizona and Nevada. Personally, we ventured onto the Northshore Road, and what wonder and admiration we felt when the road led us through areas of bright red mountains and immense rock formations, vestiges of ancient lava flows, now solidified and petrified by time. In other words, what ecstasy we felt before this decor of unreal beauty, giving you the impression of returning to the age of the dinosaurs!
Finally, Lake Mead also means fabulous fishing trips for lovers of fresh fish, countless hikes for lovers of wide-open spaces, and photography opportunities. Those who are less athletic will be content with delicious barbecues and picnics that anyone can organize on the shores of the lake and its many fine sandy beaches, thanks to the facilities provided for this purpose. Because, indeed, multiple picnic areas equipped with tables, water, barbecues, and toilets (of extreme cleanliness, I guarantee it!) await every visitor all around the lake, with, as a bonus, a privileged view of it!
And for the best-organized among you wishing to spend an extended stay near the lake, know that the Lake Mead National Recreational Area contains several campgrounds, lodges, and motels where you can pitch your tent, park your XXL camper, or rent a small, well-equipped room with cozy beds.
In short, there is something for everyone, and everyone will be able to find their happiness at Lake Mead, which undeniably knows how to seduce and charm its visitor!
Now, beyond the issues related to water, let's hope that Mother Nature does not reclaim her rights over this extraordinary place, and let's hope that man does not eventually destroy the fabulous "toy" he has crafted from scratch! So, dear reader friends, when the health situation allows it, I will have only one piece of advice for you: hurry to discover this wonderful place before it disappears! And, by the way, I suggest you sharpen your curiosity a little more by extending your trip to the Hoover Dam, a true architectural and technical feat!
2/ The Hoover Dam
Here we are at last, at that famous Hoover Dam I briefly mentioned earlier, which deserves, in my opinion, a stop if you are passing through the American West. It is located only 33 miles (54 km) from Las Vegas, or about 40 minutes by car.
But before telling you more about this architectural marvel, it would be interesting to know the reasons why man imposed such a pharaonic challenge on himself in such a hostile and inhospitable region.
For that, it's very simple; you just have to go back to the beginning of the 20th century, more precisely to the 1930s.
Regulating the flow of the Colorado
The first reason that explains why man wanted to embark on such a huge project is linked to flooding.
Indeed, the Hoover Dam is located on the border between Nevada and Arizona, in the Black Canyon of the Colorado River, fed by water from the mountains that cover seven American states! Before the construction of the structure in 1931, during the spring snowmelt, a massive influx of water inevitably caused destructive flooding in both villages and crops along the river. One solution then: the creation of a dam to control the river's flow and store water in calculated locations.
Ensuring economic development
The second reason for the existence of this "behemoth": the economic development of several states in the American West.
Because, indeed, controlling the river's flow means growth for agriculture in the southwestern United States region. Furthermore, the electricity generated by the dam would eventually make the construction profitable and would thus allow for the economic and urban growth of all of Southern California, but also of Nevada and, in particular, the fabulous Las Vegas, the city of thousands of neon signs which, in 1930, had only 5,000 inhabitants compared to 600,000 today!
Restoring employment
The Hoover Dam was built during the Great Depression in the United States, at a time when American leaders were starting a public works policy to revive the economy and employment.
Indeed, the dam allowed thousands of Americans who were victims of the Great Depression to earn a stable subsistence income for the entire duration of the construction, which lasted from 1931 to 1935. By the way, for a little anecdote, in the three weeks following the announcement of the project, the employment office closest to Las Vegas had received 12,000 applications, and thousands of unemployed people traveled across the United States in the hope of getting a job, certainly difficult, but one that would earn them between $4 and $5.60 per day, a substantial salary at the time!
Thus, in addition to the major impact on the economy and development of the American Southwest, the Hoover Dam also proved to be a lifeline for thousands of American families who were hit hard by the crisis of the 30s.
Could we then call it the "savior of the American West"?
One thing is certain: it represents an essential element of the regional heritage. Visiting it and discovering its history allowed me to learn more about the history of the United States, to experience strong sensations, and to forge indelible memories. I seriously invite you to visit this fantastic place!
If, despite this, you are still not convinced, I have one more major argument to definitively persuade you to go and face this giant of the desert: it is indeed its TITANIC character, which makes it one of the most famous landmarks and one of the most impressive monuments in the country!
Indeed, have you ever seen a dam whose arch-shaped structure measures 1,244 feet (379 m) long and 726 feet (221 m) high, with a base 660 feet (200 m) thick compared to 45 feet (14 m) at its summit?
And that's not all! Do you know that the amount of concrete required for this extraordinary project was 3,250,000 cubic yards (2,480,000 m³)? In other words, an exorbitant quantity which, according to some calculations, would have made it possible to build a two-lane highway connecting New York to San Francisco!
And these mind-boggling figures don't stop there if we look at the power plant that the Hoover Dam houses.
It has 17 giant turbines, thanks to which it is capable of producing 4 billion watt-hours per hour and thus supplying electricity to a population of several million inhabitants spread across three states: Nevada, Arizona, and California.
Moreover, if you wish to get a little closer to these turbines and if you want to realize for yourself the gigantism of the power plant, know that you can enter it and visit it by buying an entrance ticket online or directly on-site at the rate of $15 per person for the classic tour and $30 per person for the full tour. During the latter, you will discover the entire history of the power plant through films and exhibitions, and you will also be led to cross gigantic tunnels and be able to photograph these famous colossal turbines! But be careful: the last tour of the power plant takes place at 3:45 PM, which means arriving in the late morning at the dam site to have time to appreciate all its beauty without rushing.
And yes, a project of this scale really deserves that you dedicate time to it, knowing that, in addition, the Hoover Dam is not just the dam and its power plant! If you look up to the sky, you will see that the Hoover Dam is also the Mike O’Callaghan-Pat Tillman Memorial Bridge, that famous bridge that connects Nevada and Arizona by spanning the Colorado River, and which was built between 2005 and 2010 with the goal of allowing commercial traffic to avoid the dam and thus relieve road congestion between the two American states.
Having crossed it on foot thanks to the pedestrian walkway set up for this purpose, I can assure you that, just like its neighbor located below, this bridge has enough to thrill even the most "daredevil" among you with its 1,900 feet (580 m) of length and 885 feet (270 m) of height!
It would therefore be a great shame to leave the Hoover Dam without having dared to measure yourself against this bridge which, in addition to the breathtaking view it offers of the dam, the Colorado River, and the surrounding desert mountains, is worthy of a real "roller coaster"!
Thus, we can remember the Hoover Dam as a truly titanic work at all levels that managed to economically jump-start the entire American Southwest and that has known, knows, and will always know how to make the hearts of us millions of tourists soar, amazed before the immensity and supremacy of such a site!
And as a "cherry on the cake," I could not finish this part without this little anecdote: since the Hoover Dam is built straddling the border between Nevada and Arizona, when you are in the middle of the structure, you are also between two time zones, Nevada to the west being in the Pacific Time Zone, while Arizona further east is in the Mountain Time Zone. Thus, when it is noon on the Nevada side of the dam, it is 1 PM on the Arizona side...
So, take note, all you who do not wish to grow old: by going to the Hoover Dam, you can rejuvenate by an hour in your life thanks to a quick jump in space-time between Arizona and Nevada!
And if you want to stop time altogether, why not make a stop in Boulder City, that charming little peaceful town that you will find on your way back from an excursion to the dam or a swim at Lake Mead, and which turns out to be a true haven of peace that contrasts with the excitement and tumultuous atmosphere of the casinos of the nearby "Strip"?
Well, if you're up for it, follow me for the tour!
3/ Boulder City
As I was telling you previously, if you wish to take a break through time, I have just the thing for you: Boulder City, where time seems to have completely stopped like a well-deserved rest after years of hard labor to build the one for which it was born: the Hoover Dam.
For, indeed, the origin of the city dates back to the early 1930s, when barracks were specially built to house the workers in charge of the construction of the nearby dam.
But with the bustling Las Vegas nearby and the multitude of slot machines that you can find anywhere, even in the most unsuspected places (from the gas station to the laundromat!), how can one explain such tranquility in this small Nevada town?
To tell you the truth, if Boulder City has revealed itself and still reveals itself to be an example in terms of tranquility, serenity, safety, and order, it is explained above all thanks to one unique thing: the prohibition of gambling on its municipal territory (the only exception to the permissive laws of the state of Nevada)!
At the time, it was mainly a matter of avoiding outbursts among the 5,000 workers hired to participate in the construction of the dam and required to stay on-site for the duration of the project. Moreover, gambling was not the only thing prohibited; alcohol was also completely banned from this worker camp to avoid any derailment!
Since that time, there are still no roulette tables or casinos, but, on the other hand, it is now possible to sip a good beer on one of the many shaded terraces that you can find in the city center, something we could not resist after an afternoon completely dehydrated from roaming Lake Mead and its scenic roads in heat of almost 122°F (50°C)! A stop in Boulder City was therefore obviously necessary, especially since its shops filled with jewelry and Indian crafts, its antique shops, and its location overlooking the surrounding desert, which offers a breathtaking view of Lake Mead (notably from the city center, behind Bicentennial Park), really deserve that you linger a few moments to enjoy its charms and its truly exceptional atmosphere!
Personally, I strongly advise you to take a little break at Jack’s Place Bar & Grill on the main avenue, where backpackers, bikers of all kinds, and locals await you, all in a super warm and sporty atmosphere!
And if you are even slightly organized, remember to inquire about the many events organized to liven up Boulder City. I am thinking in particular of custom vehicle gatherings, arts and crafts festivals, the Christmas tree, the beer festival, giant barbecues, etc.
As for us, we stumbled by pure chance upon a gathering of old Volkswagen Beetles in the heart of Bicentennial Park, and I can guarantee you that we enjoyed ourselves in many ways!
So, what more to say about Boulder City, other than it's one more idea to add to the long list of activities offered by Las Vegas and its surroundings.
For the next part, I would like to talk to you about a moving and magnetic place, I would even say on the order of the unreal... My dear reader friends, let me transport you to the heart of this sublime Nevada valley that owes its name to the flamboyant color of its sandstone rocks that seem to ignite at sunset: the "Valley of Fire" or let's say rather the "Valley of the Supernatural" (you will immediately understand why...)!
4/ Valley of Fire
There are places on Earth where a certain scent of immortality floats, an inexplicable "je ne sais quoi" that leaves you speechless, motionless, tearing at your heart and guts...; these blessed places where everyone can recharge their batteries, where you think you can tame the elements, but where you realize that it is they who tame us...; these places from which you return with the feeling of having measured yourself against life and having learned a true life lesson...; in short, these places after the discovery of which you simply say to yourself: "tomorrow, I can die in peace"...
Well, I found this place, and as you might guess, it is the prodigious "Valley of Fire", which has been and will remain forever my favorite in the United States!
Over there, no neon lights or oversized signs, no incessant noise of "one-armed bandits" or the "boom-boom" of trendy nightclubs, only the silence and rocks ranging from bright red to beige, passing through pink, orange, and even purple depending on the sun's rays... In other words, a real painting, a real artist's palette, and all this only 57 miles (92 km) from the Las Vegas Strip (about 1 hour 15 minutes by car) and 4 miles (6 km) from Lake Mead, and for the sum of $10 per vehicle.
But what is $10 in the face of the promise of returning with a heart full of indescribable emotions and indestructible memories, even if you would have certainly spent that $10 in one of those bewitching slot machines with the promise of never seeing it again...? Believe me, this entrance fee is, in my opinion, paltry compared to the grandeur of what awaits every visitor afterward!
By the way, what awaits you there?
What to see and do in the Valley of Fire?
The Valley of Fire State Park, the oldest and largest state park in Nevada, contains several scenic roads and multiple hikes that will allow you to discover with wonder and amazement its countless geological curiosities shaped by more than 150 million years of erosion, after having been formed from large shifting sand dunes during the age of the dinosaurs.
You can also find trees petrified for millennia, as well as numerous petroglyphs and magnificent rock engravings dating from prehistory, which are today the real witness to the passage of ancient Indian tribes (the Pueblo Indians of the Moapa Valley) who occupied the site between 300 BC and up to around 1150 AD.
But how do you access this "kingdom of the heavens"?
It's very simple. The park is actually divided into 3 parts that can be explored thanks to two main roads and a third a bit more confidential, which are as follows:
Valley of Fire Highway: this road connects the two entrances to the park and allows access to the other parts. You absolutely must travel it from end to end because the landscapes are grandiose and breathtaking! By the way, take a few moments to stop at the following viewpoints:
- Elephant Rock;
- Pretzel Arch;
- Seven Sisters.
Personally, it is one of the most beautiful stretches of road I have been able to see in the American West and, I even believe, in my entire existence, with this dark black asphalt that contrasts with the bright yellow of the road's center line and the flamboyant red of the natural, or rather, supernatural, settings of the park!
• Mouse’s Tank Road: this is a road perpendicular to the Valley of Fire Highway that will lead you into the heart of the park. Here again, there is much to see and do with these 5.6 miles (9 km) of asphalt that wind through the park and lead to incredible spots, such as White Domes (immense cream-colored monoliths), Rainbow Vista (a vast area of multicolored rocks offering a spectacular view), Fire Canyon Silica Dome (a region of the park where forces within the Earth were powerful enough to cause huge rock folds), and the now-famous Fire Wave (a multicolored wave displaying shades ranging from white to dark red, passing through pink and orange depending on the lighting, and a nice consolation prize for those who were not drawn for the "real" Wave of Coyote Buttes North!).
Moreover, many parking lots are set up along the road to allow you to take photo stops or even go for a few hikes to discover these fabulous viewpoints and many others, of which I draw up a summary list below:
- Scenic Drive;
- Mouse’s Tank;
- Rainbow Vista;
- Fire Canyon Arch;
- Fire Canyon Silica Dome;
- Crazy Hill Trail;
- Thunderstorm Arch;
- Fire Wave;
- White Domes.
Loop Road: a small 1.2-mile (2 km) road behind the campground that allows access to other fascinating geological curiosities, such as:
- Atlatl Rock;
- Arch Rock;
- Piano Rock;
- Windstone Arch;
- Petrified Logs.
This is how our little overview of the Valley of Fire ends, which managed to ignite my heart with indefinable emotions, shake me to my core, and bewitch me like a kind of connection between my soul and the bowels of this Indian land.
But before letting you go, I must still warn you about one thing: the HEAT, which very often exceeds 104°F (40°C)! Even during our various visits in September and October, it was over 95°F (35°C)! So be careful... and be smarter than we were: bring a good tube of sunscreen and a good supply of water if you don't want to end up completely dried out and forced to down liters of beer at the nearby brewery (Boulder City) to try to rehydrate (my companion will tell you all about it)!
Thus, between the bright red rock formations that ignite like a pyre under the luminous rays of the burning sun and the scorching heat that reigns in this arid and desert region, it would seem that the "Valley of Fire" definitely lives up to its name!
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