In my quest to visit just about every destination served by low-cost airlines from Paris, and as many capital cities as possible, I planned a quick trip to Copenhagen for a beautiful spring weekend a few years back. I had just come from Barcelona, where I’d had such a blast that I was a little worried I’d be bored in this city. It wasn't really on my radar, but I wanted to check it out, if only "just because."
Well, I was completely charmed by the city! The mild weather for an April month certainly helped me make the most of my weekend, as did the fact that I had zero expectations, which left the city plenty of room to surprise me.
Saturday, by the water
As soon as I arrived at the airport, I noticed painted elephants by various artists scattered everywhere. I later learned it was the "Elephant Parade," an open-air exhibition spread across the entire city. I immediately made it my mission to find as many as possible!
I started wandering around to get a feel for the city; I really liked the architecture I was seeing, and I soon found myself at the old port of Nyhavn, the one you see on every postcard. It’s no wonder, it’s stunning, and I’d never seen a panorama quite like it, with its colorful houses and countless sailboats. That was it; I was officially under the city's spell!
Nyhavn is a small canal in the city center that opens out into an inlet. It was dug 350 years ago for maritime trade and fishing needs. Today, the canal has been successfully converted into the city's iconic promenade. You'll find boats you can tour, exhibitions, historic houses, and restaurants and bars with terraces (open even in winter!). In short, it’s the beating heart of the Danish capital.
I walked along the docks, where you can see the Opera House on the other side with its rather unique architecture. A just-as-unique park/terrace area allowed us to rest for a bit (though I think it was a temporary installation, as I can't find it on Google Maps!). I then took the opportunity to walk through the Amalie Garden, which is very pretty and quiet, featuring art installations and another lovely view of the opera house.
From there, you can reach the main square to see Amalienborg Palace, the winter residence of the Danish royals. I didn't go inside, just admired the exterior. I continued my walk to the citadel, the Kastellet. I’m not a huge military history buff, but the walk is quite nice, and it’s mainly a pleasant way to reach the symbol of Copenhagen: the famous Little Mermaid statue (Den Lille Havfrue)!
This small statue is the city's main attraction, and I recommend reading the article about it on Wikipedia, especially to learn about the acts of vandalism the poor statue has had to endure. You’ll also learn that the version on display is actually a copy. Which turns out to be a good idea, knowing that the original work has been decapitated twice and had one of its arms cut off. It seems this little 1.25-meter bronze sculpture, inspired by the Hans Christian Andersen fairy tale, crystallizes the country's social and political tensions. It's not easy being a mermaid-star!
I continued my walk along the other bank to get back to my hostel, which was a bit of a trek (Copenhagen prices are quite high, so finding an affordable room wasn't easy!). After a well-deserved break, I headed toward Strøget, a shopping street and one of the longest pedestrian streets in Europe. The area is beautiful, so I walked the whole length of it. Night falls pretty early at that time of year, and I found myself back at the Nyhavn port, where I could watch the sun finish its descent.
Sunday, around Rosenborg Castle
The next day, I started my morning at the gardens of Rosenborg Castle (Kongens Have). On a sunny day, it’s a lovely walk; the garden is beautifully landscaped. With the castle and its Flemish architecture in the background, I had a great time, even though I didn't go inside the castle, which now houses a museum.
Right next door, you have access to the Botanical Garden, which is stunning with its impressive large metal and glass greenhouse. Plus, it’s free! Different environments and habitats are recreated inside, and you can discover exotic plants, especially in the tropical greenhouse. Once again, it was a walk that filled our lungs with fresh air and gave us a nice dose of greenery!
I then headed toward Christiania, the self-proclaimed "Freetown of Christiania." The concept of this self-governing community seemed interesting, but personally, I didn't love it. I got more of an impression of a hippie community living off the sale of marijuana and hash (impressive quantities, I must say, but photos are forbidden!). In short, it had nothing to do with a community growing their own vegetables and living off authentic crafts! It was a bit "too much" for my taste, so I didn't linger.
I would have loved to visit the Tivoli gardens, the illuminated exterior looked very inviting, but the day was already well underway, and since it was such a short weekend, I opted for a relaxing evening instead. On my last morning, I wandered around the city a little longer before heading back to the airport for my flight home.
In short, it’s a city I never would have thought to visit without cheap Easyjet tickets, but it left me with a great impression of a pleasant place full of surprises, and I would return in a heartbeat!
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