The village that rose again by the turquoise water
Back in 1974, Les Salles-sur-Verdon vanished underwater. The original village, complete with its church and centuries-old alleyways, now rests at the bottom of the Lake of Sainte-Croix, submerged when the dam filled. What stands today was rebuilt a few hundred feet higher, using fresh stone but keeping that same unobstructed view of water with an almost unreal blue tint.
Is this destination for you?
If you crave swimming in turquoise water surrounded by limestone hills, without the heavy crowds of major beach resorts, you will find it here. If you enjoy quiet walks, lounging on sandy shores, and fiery sunsets over the lake, this tiny community of 206 residents is worth a look.
On the flip side, if you are after a lively nightlife scene, deep historical sightseeing, or extensive resort amenities, skip this stop. Everything closes early here, and the overall setup is intentionally modest.
Best suited for:
- Swimmers and fans of light water sports like paddleboarding and kayaking
- Travelers looking for quiet and nature
- Families wanting a quiet base for exploring the Verdon Gorge
Not suited for:
- Nightlife seekers or lively evening outings
- Fans of ancient historical heritage (the village was rebuilt in 1974)
- Travelers without a car, since public transit is practically nonexistent
A fairly reasonable budget, outside peak season
Prices jump noticeably in July and August, when the lake draws crowds from across the region. In the off-season, the village remains accessible.
| Expense | Range |
|---|---|
| Campsite overnight | 15 to 25 € |
| Hotel or guesthouse overnight | 70 to 130 € |
| Quick bite (sandwich, takeout pizza) | 8 to 12 € |
| Sit-down restaurant meal | 20 to 35 € |
| Paddleboard or kayak rental (half day) | 15 to 25 € |
Estimated rates subject to change
Practical realities: a tiny village, massive nature
Do not expect a supermarket or a late-night pharmacy here. The village operates on a seasonal rhythm, lively from May to September and nearly dormant the rest of the year. A car is essential for exploring the surroundings, as public transit is very limited in this part of the Var department.
The Mediterranean climate brings warm, dry summers ideal for swimming, though you should watch out for sudden summer thunderstorms that can blow across the water without warning. Safety is not a particular concern as this is a peaceful rural and tourist zone.
The Lake of Sainte-Croix, the undisputed star
It is impossible to talk about Les Salles-sur-Verdon without mentioning this body of water spanning over 2,000 hectares. Its turquoise color, born from the limestone composition of the surrounding rock, surprises visitors every time. The municipal beach, gently sloping and lifeguarded in season, works well for families with kids.
Friendly tip: rent a kayak or paddleboard right in the village rather than across the water in Sainte-Croix-du-Verdon; it is often cheaper and lets you skip the crowds clustered near the bridge.
Toward the Verdon Gorge
The village makes an ideal base for reaching the Verdon Gorge, just a few miles away. The winding, dramatic ridge road offers dizzying viewpoints over this canyon, sometimes dubbed the European Grand Canyon. Plan for a solid half-day to take in the main overlooks.
Quiet hikes and walks
Several trails loop around the lake, letting you walk in the shade of the pines with regular glimpses of the water. Nothing extreme here: these are family-friendly paths with no steep climbs, ideal for late afternoon when the heat breaks.
Where to eat and drink in Les Salles-sur-Verdon?
Dining options are modest but sufficient for a short stay. You will find pizzerias, restaurants serving simple Provençal fare, and a few terraced cafés overlooking the lake. Do not expect Michelin-starred dining: this is honest, unpretentious village cooking.
Where to stay in and around Les Salles-sur-Verdon?
The village itself offers a few hotels and guesthouses, frequently with lake views. For tighter budgets, several campgrounds line the shore, some directly on the beach. Nearby spots like Aiguines or Sainte-Croix-du-Verdon offer similar alternatives if everything fills up during high season.
How to get to Les Salles-sur-Verdon?
A car is the most practical way to arrive. From Aix-en-Provence, expect about a 1-hour-30-minute drive. From Nice, plan for closer to 2 hours. Marseille-Provence Airport and Nice Côte d'Azur Airport are the most convenient gateways for international travelers, followed by an essential car rental to reach the village.
How to get around Les Salles-sur-Verdon?
You can walk across the entire village in just a few minutes. To explore the gorge, neighboring villages, or simply drive around the lake, a car is non-negotiable since public transit is practically nonexistent in this rural corner of the Verdon.
When to go?
The ideal window runs from June to September to fully enjoy the lake and swimming. July and August draw the largest crowds and bring higher prices. Spring, particularly May, strikes a nice balance between mild weather and quiet before the summer rush arrives.
The history of this village is incredible. The old village of Les Salles is actually covered by the Lac de Sainte-Croix today! I loved finding certain elements that were integrated into the new village. Things like roof tiles, the church, doors, and the fountain all belong to the village that was submerged when the dam was filled in 1975! It is a real open-air history lesson.