The village that rose back up along the turquoise water
In 1974, Les Salles-sur-Verdon vanished beneath the water. The original village, complete with its church and centuries-old lanes, now rests at the bottom of the lac de Sainte-Croix, submerged when the dam filled the valley. What stands today was rebuilt a few hundred feet higher up, using fresh stone but keeping that same unobstructed view of impossibly blue water.
Is this destination right for you?
Are you dreaming of swimming in turquoise water surrounded by limestone hills, far from the massive crowds of major beach resorts? Do you love easy strolls, lazy afternoons on a sandy beach, and sunsets setting the lake on fire? If so, this small village of 206 residents should hit the spot.
On the flip side, if you are looking for a high-energy nightlife scene, dense historical landmarks, or heavy tourist infrastructure, keep moving. Everything closes early here, and the local setup stays intentionally modest.
Great for:
- Swimmers and fans of gentle water sports like paddleboarding and kayaking
- Travelers looking for quiet and nature
- Families wanting a quiet base to explore the gorges du Verdon
Not so great for:
- Nightlife seekers and lively evening outings
- Fans of ancient architecture and historic sites (the village was entirely rebuilt in 1974)
- Travelers without a car, since public transit is practically nonexistent
Reasonable pricing, outside peak season
Prices spike significantly in July and August, when the lake draws visitors from all over the region. Outside of summer, the village stays budget-friendly.
| Expense | Range |
|---|---|
| Night at a campsite | 15 to 25 € |
| Night in a hotel or guesthouse | 70 to 130 € |
| Quick bite (sandwich, takeout pizza) | 8 to 12 € |
| Sit-down restaurant meal | 20 to 35 € |
| Kayak or paddleboard rental (half day) | 15 to 25 € |
Indicative rates subject to change
Practical realities: a tiny village, massive nature
Do not expect to find a supermarket or a late-night pharmacy. The village runs on the tourist calendar, lively from May through September and practically asleep the rest of the year. Having a car is essential for exploring the area, as public transportation is extremely limited in this part of the Var department.
The Mediterranean climate delivers hot, dry summers that are ideal for swimming, but keep an eye out for summer thunderstorms that can blow in suddenly over the water. Safety is not an issue here, as it is a peaceful rural and resort area.
Lac de Sainte-Croix, the undisputed star
It is impossible to talk about Les Salles-sur-Verdon without mentioning this massive body of water spanning over 2,000 hectares. Its turquoise color, created by the limestone composition of the surrounding rocks, surprises you every single time. The municipal beach, which slopes gently and has lifeguards on duty during the season, works well for families with kids.
Friendly tip: rent a kayak or paddleboard right in the village instead of over at Sainte-Croix-du-Verdon on the other shore, because it is usually cheaper and you avoid the crowds packed tightly around the bridge.
Toward the Verdon Gorge
The village makes a great base for reaching the gorges du Verdon just a few miles away. The winding, dramatic Route des Crêtes offers dizzying viewpoints over this massive canyon often called the Grand Canyon of Europe. Plan for a good half day to take in the main lookouts.
Friendly tip: For US travelers heading over, a valid passport is required, and while an international driving permit isn't strictly mandatory for France, renting a car requires a valid US driver's license and a credit card.
Quiet hikes and walks
Several trails loop around the lake, letting you walk in the shade of the pines with regular peeks out at the water. Nothing extreme here, just easy family walks with no major climbs, perfect for late afternoon when the heat starts to break.
Where to eat and drink in Les Salles-sur-Verdon?
Options are modest but enough for a short stay. You will find pizzerias, casual restaurants serving straightforward Provençal cooking, and a few sidewalk cafes overlooking the lake. Do not expect Michelin-starred dining, just honest, unpretentious village fare.
Where to stay in Les Salles-sur-Verdon and nearby?
The village itself has a few hotels and guesthouses, many with lake views. If you are watching your wallet, several campgrounds line the shore, with some sitting right on the beach. Nearby spots like Aiguines and Sainte-Croix-du-Verdon offer similar alternatives if everything books up during peak season.
How to get to Les Salles-sur-Verdon?
A car is by far the most practical way to arrive. From Aix-en-Provence, figure on about 1 hour and 30 minutes of driving. From Nice, plan for closer to 2 hours. Marseille-Provence Airport and Nice Côte d'Azur Airport are the most convenient arrival points for international travelers, followed by a necessary car rental to reach the village.
How to get around Les Salles-sur-Verdon?
You can walk across the entire village in just a few minutes. To explore the gorge, neighboring villages, or simply drive the perimeter of the lake, a car is non-negotiable since public transit is virtually nonexistent in this rural pocket of the Verdon.
When to go?
The sweet spot runs from June through September to make the most of the lake and swimming. July and August bring the heaviest crowds and highest prices. Spring, particularly May, strikes a great balance between mild weather and peace and quiet before the massive wave of vacationers arrives.
The history of this village is incredible. The old village of Les Salles is actually covered by the Lac de Sainte-Croix today! I loved finding certain elements that were integrated into the new village. Things like roof tiles, the church, doors, and the fountain all belong to the village that was submerged when the dam was filled in 1975! It is a real open-air history lesson.