Where to stay in Kerala: the 3 areas to know in 2026
Four of our 20 reviews forbid swimming at Varkala, and two give the same proof: "the locals do not swim there. I advise you to do the same". A fifth draws the consequence that matters here: "personally, I preferred enjoying the hotel pool with a sea view, top notch!" In this area, the pool is not a luxury, it is the reason to choose the place.
In Alappuzha, the accommodation is not even a building: both our reviews sleep on board, on the backwaters, and give the same advice, "avoid the boats that are too big", "always negotiate before agreeing to anything". And in Kochi, our three reviews describe the same city, "a multicultural city in which all the religions live side by side", in a district you can explore on foot. Three areas below, and three ways of sleeping.
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The waves can be very dangerous and carry you away. In fact, the locals do not swim there. I advise you to do the same and keep a good distance from the ocean.
One base or several?
The three areas are lined up from north to south across 170 km of coast, linked by road and rail. Our reviews give only one explicit duration, that of the Kochi visits, and they are all short: the real variable is the number of nights on the water.
- A long weekend: Fort Kochi, two nights, on foot. Our reviews time every visit here in minutes, and the district is one of the rare ones in India "to walk around" according to our review.
- A week: Kochi, one night on the backwaters, then Varkala: two nights, one on board, three on the cliff. It is the sequence our reviews describe without ever naming it, and it runs north to south.
- Ten days: Two nights on the water rather than one: our review mentions "a longer or shorter cruise", and it is the only accommodation in this guide that can be extended without changing address.
- Two weeks: Extend your stay in Varkala, where our review finds "many restaurants with very good value for money", and where Kappil beach offers "fewer people" than the main one. But still without swimming: four of our reviews advise against it.
How much driving between two bases?
An international airport at Kochi, and a railway line running down the whole coast to Varkala. Our reviews never ask for a car: Fort Kochi is done on foot, the backwaters by boat, and Varkala comes down to a cliff.
| Route | Driving time | Good to know |
|---|---|---|
| Kochi → Alappuzha | 1 hr 30 | 55 km, train or road |
| Alappuzha → Varkala | 2 hr | 110 km, direct train |
| Kochi → Varkala | 3 hr 30 | 170 km, direct train |
| Fort Kochi → Jew Town | 15 min | on foot, or by tuk-tuk |
| Alappuzha → Backwaters | 0 min | the jetty is in town |
| Varkala → Kappil Beach | 20 min | 10 km to the north |
At a glance: our picks by traveller type
Pick the profile that fits you and go straight to the recommended area.
Map of the areas in Kerala
See how the areas sit relative to one another before choosing your base. Click a name to jump to its description.
Fort Kochi Fort Kochi, Jew Town, Mattancherry
13 of our 20 reviews, and four religions in a district you can walk
Our three city reviews say the same thing, and the seven places we rank here prove it. The Paradesi Synagogue, "right at the end of an alley", with "a small museum [that] traces the history of Kochi's Jewish communities". The Jain Temple, where our review advises "if possible, take a guide". St Francis Church, "one of the oldest churches in India", where "the relics of Vasco da Gama were kept" and whose "roof is unusual and looks like the hull of an upturned boat". Mattancherry Palace, "built by the Portuguese". And the Kochi Spice Market, "the ideal place to […] talk and exchange with the locals".
Places to walk around in India are rare, but this is one of them.
What to see and do in this area
Where to stay in this area
Brunton Boatyard Luxury
26 rooms on the former shipyard, all facing the sea, with an outdoor pool and an Ayurvedic centre. Five minutes' walk from the Chinese Fishing Nets and St Francis Church.
Pros
- "The streets are fairly safe for tourists", notes our review, the only one in this guide to say it
- All the visits are short according to our review: "a few minutes", "fairly quick", "about 45 minutes"
Cons
- The synagogue is "closed during services and on Fridays", warns our review
- At the fishing nets, our review reports "the rubbish on the beach"
Varkala North cliff, south cliff, Kappil
5 of our 20 reviews, and four that forbid swimming
The cliff is the setting and the sea is the danger, and our reviews do not hide it. "The walk along the cliff is very pleasant. The cliff is impressive and offers a superb panorama over the ocean", writes the first, who goes on: "I would advise you not to swim, the waves are very violent". The second confirms and gives his choice: "personally, I preferred enjoying the hotel pool with a sea view". He adds what nobody else reports, "many eagles fly over the place". The Janardanaswamy Temple completes the visit, and our review makes a rare point: "it can be visited even by non-Hindus".
Personally, I preferred enjoying the hotel pool with a sea view, top notch!
What to see and do in this area
Where to stay in this area
Gateway Varkala Mid-range
30 rooms and suites on the cliff, facing the Arabian Sea, with an outdoor pool and five minutes' walk from the Janardanaswamy Temple. This is exactly the "hotel pool with a sea view" our review describes.
Pros
- "Varkala offers many restaurants with very good value for money", our review notes
- Kappil beach is "a bit away from the main beach […] there are fewer people", according to our review
Cons
- Four of our reviews advise against swimming, and two remind us that the locals do not swim
- "Watch out for the opening hours" of the temple, which "is not accessible all day", warns our review
Alappuzha and the backwaters Canals, Vembanad, jetties
Two reviews, and the only area in this guide where you do not sleep in a building
Our two reviews describe the same thing and give the same advice. "Alappuzha is the ideal starting point for setting off to discover the famous backwaters, those canals so typical of Kerala. From there, you can book a longer or shorter cruise", writes the first, who decides on the size: "I would advise you to avoid the boats that are too big and to go for the smaller craft, far more picturesque. Always negotiate before agreeing to anything." The second did exactly that: "I chose a smaller, more human-sized boat […] makes you feel closer to nature", with "an absolute favourite, the sunset over the beautiful coconut trees lining the canals" and the meal "usually based on fish".
I chose a smaller, more human-sized boat, which is more environmentally friendly and makes you feel closer to nature
Pros
- Both our reviews give the same advice, and it is rare: a small boat rather than a big one
- "In addition to sleeping on board, enjoy the meal that is often served, usually based on fish", notes our review
Cons
- We list no address here, and that is normal: both our reviews sleep on a boat negotiated on the spot
- "Always negotiate before agreeing to anything", warns our review: the price is not displayed
Our tips for booking the right place
- You do not swim at Varkala, and four of our reviews say so: It is the most repeated instruction in this guide, and it comes from two authors across four places. "You can walk along the beach but I would advise you not to swim, the waves are very violent." "So for the beach side, be very careful where you swim! Around here the waves can be treacherous and are very powerful. Trust the locals and the regular tourists, and the currents are strong too." "The waves can be very dangerous and carry you away. In fact, the locals do not swim there. I advise you to do the same and keep a good distance from the ocean." And on Kappil beach: "to swim is at your own risk. The waves are really high and the current very strong. For my part, I did not do it. The locals do not swim either, and it is actually rather frowned upon. Admiring the scenery is enough."
- Which is why the pool becomes a criterion, and it is our review that says it: Since the sea is off limits, the hotel pool is no longer an extra but the only swimming of the trip, and our review experienced it that way: "personally, I preferred enjoying the hotel pool with a sea view, top notch!" That is why the address we select in Varkala has one, and why we say so. The same review gives the rest of the programme: "my favourite remains the superb setting of the beaches surrounded by high cliffs with changing colours. As a bonus, many eagles fly over the place, keep your eyes open to enjoy it."
- On the backwaters, the accommodation is the boat, and both our reviews say which one: "I would advise you to avoid the boats that are too big and to go for the smaller craft, far more picturesque. Always negotiate before agreeing to anything", writes the first. The second followed that reasoning before having read it: "I chose a smaller, more human-sized boat, which is more environmentally friendly and makes you feel closer to nature". And he describes what the night buys: "I absolutely loved the sunset over the beautiful coconut trees lining the canals, it was magical! In addition to sleeping on board, enjoy the meal that is often served, usually based on fish. It is delicious, and what a place for a dinner!" That is why we list no address for this area: there is none to list.
- Four religions in a district you can walk, and our reviews saw them all: "It is a multicultural city in which all the religions live side by side. You will even find a synagogue, which I would recommend visiting." The places confirm it one by one: the Paradesi Synagogue and its quarter "with plenty of antique shops"; the Jain Temple, a religion "rather astonishing and governed by fairly strict rules" that was new to our reviewer; Santa Cruz Cathedral, where "the Catholic religion is in fact far more present in India than I thought"; and St Francis Church, "one of the oldest churches in India". Add the Portuguese Mattancherry Palace and the Kochi Spice Market: six places, one single district.
- All the Kochi visits are short, and our review timed them: This is what sets the number of nights, and it is a measurement rather than an impression. The synagogue: "it is small and can be visited in just a few minutes". St Francis Church: "the visit is fairly quick but is still worth a look". Mattancherry Palace: "allow about 45 minutes on site". At that pace, the seven places we rank here fit into a day and a half, and two nights are enough. What does take time, according to our reviews, is something else: "the beauty of the trees is astounding […] don't forget your camera".
- Two opening times to check, and our reviews are the only ones to give them: The Paradesi Synagogue first: "the synagogue is closed during services and on Fridays, be careful". Then the Janardanaswamy Temple at Varkala: "watch out for the opening hours, the temple is not accessible all day, check carefully before coming. In the evening, candles are lit, it is very pretty." The same review points out something that is not automatic in India: "it can be visited even by non-Hindus, which is not always the case". And at the Chinese Fishing Nets, our two reviews do not agree on the time: "the morning to enjoy a bit of quiet" versus "the walk at sunset is still the best moment for taking photographs".
- Swimming at Varkala: four of our reviews advise against it, and two remind us that the locals do not.
- Booking a big boat on the backwaters: both our reviews advise the opposite, "avoid the boats that are too big".
- Accepting the first price for a cruise: our review warns, "always negotiate before agreeing to anything".
- Coming to the Paradesi Synagogue on a Friday: our review reports that it is closed that day and during services.
- Counting on the Janardanaswamy Temple at any hour: our review warns that it "is not accessible all day".
FAQ: where to stay in Kerala
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