The Portuguese palace painted by the Dutch
The name is a bit of a misnomer. While it is widely known as the Dutch Palace, its origins have nothing to do with the Netherlands. Built around 1555 by the Portuguese as a gift to the raja of Kochi to compensate for the looting of a nearby temple, it was restored and expanded a century later by Dutch merchants from the VOC, who left their mark on the local collective memory.
Why visit the Mattancherry Palace?
The draw here is not the facade, which is quite understated for a royal building, but what lies behind it. Inside, a museum documents the history of the rajas of Kochi through portraits, costumes, palanquins, and ceremonial weapons. The real treasures of the site are its 16th-century murals, which rank among the best-preserved in all of South India.
The architecture follows the traditional Kerala nalukettu design, featuring four wings arranged around an open central courtyard, a common layout for noble homes in the region. An interior patio houses a small temple dedicated to the goddess Pazhayannur Bhagavathy, which remains active and is closed to non-Hindu visitors.
The must-see frescoes
The coronation hall on the upper floor contains the most spectacular frescoes. Scenes from the Ramayana cover the walls for several meters, rendered in ochre, red, and black tones sourced from local plant and mineral pigments. Other rooms feature episodes from the Mahabharata and Krishnaite mythology, with a level of detail that rewards a patient observer.
Natural light filters in through small, carved wooden openings, requiring you to slow your pace to make out the compositions in the dim setting.
Pro tip: Photography is prohibited inside the rooms containing the frescoes. Take the time to observe rather than trying to capture the image, as the dim lighting makes for disappointing photos anyway.
Pros
- Exceptional frescoes, rare in India
- Short visit, easy to combine with the nearby spice market
- Human-scale architecture typical of Kerala
Cons
- Photography forbidden inside
- Limited English explanations on site
A historic neighborhood surrounding the palace
The palace sits in the heart of Mattancherry, a former trading post where Portuguese, Dutch, British, and Jewish communities of Cochin once crossed paths. The Paradesi Synagogue, one of the oldest in the Commonwealth still in use, is just a few minutes away on foot, as are the narrow alleys of the spice market where the scents of cardamom and black pepper still linger.
Opening hours
Sat-Thu: 9:00 AM to 5:00 PM.
Closed on Fridays.
How long for this activity
Plan on spending about 45 minutes to 1 hour to walk through all the rooms and take in the famous murals.
*Information subject to change
This palace, built by the Portuguese, has now become a museum you can visit. Its architecture is typical of Portugal. Inside, you will find many works with European influences. It is a must-see visit to better understand the history of Kochi over the centuries. Plan on about 45 minutes on-site.