Visiting the San Juan Islands
An archipelago in the Salish Sea, in the far northwest of Washington State, between Seattle and Vancouver Island. There are well over a hundred islands and islets, but only four are served by the ferry: San Juan, Orcas, Lopez and Shaw. Here the road stops at the water's edge, and the villages fit into a single street.
Friday Harbor is the main port, where the boats and the seaplanes come in. Orcas, the most mountainous, climbs to Mount Constitution. Lopez, flat and rural, is made for cycling. You come for the orcas, sea kayaking and the silence of the coves, not for the beach: the water rarely tops 12°C.
You will love it if
- You dream of seeing orcas from the shore or from a kayak
- You love quiet islands, farms and small harbours
- You are after a mild, dry summer, far from the heat
Give it a miss if
- You want to swim: the sea stays icy even in August
- You hate waiting: in summer, ferry lines are counted in hours
- Your budget is tight: rooms are scarce, and so they are expensive
The must-sees
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1 The orcas of Lime Kiln Point
A small white lighthouse on the west coast of San Juan Island, above a deep channel. From May to September, orcas pass so close to the rocks that you can hear them breathe. Bring binoculars and patience: the best hours are often in the evening.
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The summit of Orcas Island, at 2,409 feet, in the heart of Moran State Park. A stone tower built in the 1930s looks out over the archipelago, snow-capped Mount Baker and the coast of Canada. Drive up the winding road, or walk up past the forest lakes.
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3 Kayaking between the islands Sea kayaking
The best way to understand the archipelago is to see it at water level. Guided trips leave from Friday Harbor, Roche Harbor and Orcas to meet seals, bald eagles and, with luck, orcas. The currents are strong: always go with a guide.
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4 The colours ceremony at Roche Harbor Tradition
Every summer evening at sunset, the little harbour of Roche Harbor lowers its flags to music, and a cannon shot marks the end of the day. The boaters stand up on their decks. Arrive a little early and have a drink on the terrace of the old 1886 hotel.
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5 Cycling round Lopez Cycling
Lopez is the flattest of the islands, and its country roads run past pastures, farms and coves. Drivers greet you with a finger raised from the wheel, an island habit. Rent a bike at the ferry landing and keep a whole day for it.
The classic trap
Turning up at the Anacortes ferry on a summer Friday without a car reservation. The lines are then counted in hours, and the last boat can leave without you. Book your space as soon as reservations open, or leave the car behind and board on foot.
Our itineraries in the San Juan Islands
| Length | Itinerary | What you see |
|---|---|---|
| 2 days | Friday Harbor › Roche Harbor | The harbour, the orcas at Lime Kiln, the evening ceremony |
| 4 days | San Juan › Orcas | The orcas, Mount Constitution, the villages of Orcas |
| 1 week | San Juan › Orcas › Lopez | The three main islands, kayaking and cycling |
Start with San Juan Island: the port of Friday Harbor, the Whale Museum, then the west coast and Lime Kiln Point for the orcas. Then take the inter-island ferry to Orcas, for Mount Constitution and the artists' studios of Eastsound. Got a week? Finish on Lopez, by bike, at the pace of the farms.
When to visit the San Juan Islands
| Interest | Season | Temperatures | The highlight | Crowds and prices |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| WinterDec. to Feb. | 2 to 8°C | Storms and empty islands | Low | |
| SpringMar. to May | 5 to 16°C | Wildflowers and the return of the orcas | Medium | |
| SummerJune to Aug. | 11 to 23°C | Orcas and kayaking | High | |
| AutumnSept. and Oct. | 8 to 18°C | Golden light and quiet ferries | Medium |
Our advice
Come from June to September for the orcas and the long evenings, when the sun sets after 9 pm. September is the best compromise: the sea is calm, the orcas are still around and the ferries less crowded. Sheltered by the Olympic Mountains, the islands get half as much rain as Seattle.
Getting to the San Juan Islands
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By plane to Seattle The simplest
Direct flights link London to Seattle in about ten hours, and the city is a short domestic hop from the rest of North America. Allow an hour and a half's drive to the Anacortes ferry. UK travellers need an ESTA, applied for online before departure: 40 dollars.
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By ferry from Anacortes The classic
Washington State ferries leave Anacortes for Lopez, Shaw, Orcas and San Juan. Allow an hour to an hour and a quarter to Friday Harbor, threading between the islands. Book a space for the car, especially in summer; on foot, just walk on.
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By seaplane from Seattle The most beautiful
Seaplanes take off from Lake Union, right in Seattle, and land in the harbours of Friday Harbor, Roche Harbor and Orcas in three quarters of an hour. The low-altitude flight is already an excursion.
Pick up a hire car at Seattle airport, or come on foot: in Friday Harbor the whole port can be explored without a car, and bikes and scooters are for hire at the ferry landing. Leave some margin on departure day, as the ferries sometimes run late.
Getting around the San Juan Islands
On San Juan and Orcas, a car is useful: the roads are long and the viewpoints scattered. A seasonal shuttle serves the main sights of San Juan in summer. On Lopez, a bike is enough. Between the islands, the ferry shuttles back and forth several times a day.
Good to know
The ferries only charge in one direction, leaving Anacortes: trips between the islands are free for foot passengers. A UK or EU licence is enough to rent and drive in the United States, and an International Driving Permit avoids any discussion at a roadside check.
What to eat in the San Juan Islands
- Westcott Bay oysters: farmed in a bay on San Juan Island, best eaten raw by the water.
- Dungeness crab: the big crab of the North Pacific, served whole with melted butter.
- Wild salmon: smoked, or grilled on a cedar plank, a tradition of the coastal peoples.
- Lavender: grown in large fields on San Juan Island, in soaps, honey and even ice cream.
- Farm produce: honesty stands by the roadside, with eggs, flowers and vegetables.
- Island cider and wine: small orchards and vineyards that only sell on site.
To eat like the locals, go to the Friday Harbor farmers' market on Saturday mornings in season, or to the one in Eastsound. Book your tables in the evening in summer: restaurants are few, and the islands go to bed early.
Where to stay in the San Juan Islands
| Area | What for | Good to know |
|---|---|---|
| Friday Harbor | The harbour, the restaurants, the ferry | The most practical |
| Roche Harbor | The marina, the evening ceremony, the orcas | The most elegant |
| Orcas Island | Mount Constitution, Eastsound, hiking | The wildest |
| Lopez Island | Cycling, farms, quiet coves | The most peaceful |
| Anacortes | The ferry terminal, lower prices | On the mainland |
How much does a trip in the San Juan Islands cost?
| Trip | Length | Budget per person |
|---|---|---|
| Budget (camping, on foot, markets) | 5 days | €700 to €1,000 |
| Comfort (inn, car, boat trips) | 5 days | €1,500 to €2,300 |
| Luxury (resort, seaplane, fine dining) | 5 days | €3,500 to €5,500 |
- The ferry: on foot you pay far less than with a car, and you will see a good part of the islands without one.
- Orca watching: from Lime Kiln Point it is free; a boat trip costs money, but brings you closer to the animals.
- The season: in May and October, rooms often cost a third less than in July.
- Minimum stays: in summer, many inns require two nights at weekends.
- Meals: grocery stores and farmers' markets let you picnic facing the sea.
Traditions and way of life in the San Juan Islands
Long before the Europeans, the Coast Salish peoples fished for salmon in these straits with nets stretched between two canoes, a technique all their own. Spanish explorers gave the archipelago its name at the end of the 18th century, and the British named many of its bays.
In 1859, a pig shot in a garden nearly started a war between the United States and the British Empire: the Pig War, with no victim other than the animal. Both armies occupied San Juan Island for twelve years, until the German emperor's arbitration in 1872. Passing through English Camp? Look up: the British flag still flies there.