2 Days in Vienna: The Ultimate Itinerary

A last-minute deal

I had never really considered taking a vacation to Vienna. The opportunity came up to go for a long weekend, and while browsing online, I found a last-minute trip at a "slashed price," as the ad put it. Given the cost, I was off to Austria.

I ended up in a superb 4-star hotel in the 13th district (there are twenty-three of them!!). The room was spacious, comfortable, and tastefully furnished. The bathroom had a large tub, and the bed was a real double: pure bliss! The icing on the cake: everything was perfectly clean. You can do your hotel searches in Vienna here. It felt great, and it was a nice change from my previous trip to Greece, where I’d ended up in a 3-star hotel that looked like the cleaning staff had abandoned it three months prior… Maybe I’ll tell you about those mishaps in another post…

Anyway, you can see why Vienna quickly struck me as a lovely city. I have to say, even at the airport, I was blown away by how clean everything was.

The hotel staff were charming and attentive. However, it’s best to know how to speak English, as French isn't spoken much. Ideally, you’d speak German, as Austrian is very similar, aside from a few specific words. Unfortunately for me, my German lessons were buried too deep in my memory to be of any use… So, English it was!

Once my bags were dropped off, my suit was hung up properly to avoid wrinkles (I’ll explain why I brought it with me later), and I was refreshed by a good shower, I left the hotel to head into the heart of Vienna.

Day 1

First impressions: Vienna, a clean and peaceful city

To get around, nothing is easier than taking the tram. It’s a great way to quickly admire the city. And what a city! I was immediately dazzled. Just imagine: buildings in the purest Austro-Hungarian style, imposing in their sheer scale. I felt tiny. Even though these aren't skyscrapers, there’s an incredible strength and a haunting serenity that radiates from the stone. I even felt like I was stepping back into the country's history, thanks to these buildings that felt like a giant open-air book.

The stone facades featured wide, tall windows. There was little in the way of frills on the buildings, which fit exactly what I imagined of the Austrian style: noble, powerful, and sober. The only unique touch for each one came from their different colors, all in fairly soft tones.

The walkways and sidewalks were wide, the streets were perfectly laid out, and there wasn't a scrap of paper or a piece of gum on the ground. And the people, my god, the people! Kind, smiling, respectful of others… That was it: I had definitely left France!

A sense of safety emanated from the city, which felt wonderful. So, with a light heart, I decided to set off and discover this city that seemed to be welcoming me with open arms.

Pastries and sweets at Café Central

Being somewhat organized by nature, I set up my HQ in a cafe where I ordered my first… Viennese coffee, served with its traditional glass of water! Not being chauvinistic, I could have even asked for a croissant, but I wasn't hungry enough for that. While chatting as best I could with the waiter, he confirmed that pastries, and specifically the croissant, did indeed originate in this city: according to him, while the city was under siege by the Ottomans, Viennese bakers raised the alarm about an imminent attack, which helped repel it. In memory of this victory and to remember their contribution, they later created this crescent-shaped pastry, the emblem of the enemy troops. I don't know if it's a true story or a nice legend for tourists (the internet seems to confirm it all…).

To stay on the theme of indulgence, I’d like to tell you about my other culinary experiences over the weekend. I went to check out the famous Café Central. Be warned, it’s crowded at all hours of the day. I waited a bit before sitting down and ordering, tempted by what I saw on my neighbors' plates… I didn't have to wait long to see a beautiful slice of creamy cake arrive, the name of which I’ve unfortunately forgotten. From the first bite, my taste buds melted with pleasure! So, yeah, okay, it’s not exactly diet food… But hey, I’d done quite a bit of walking and I planned to do more during the trip, so, you know, right…?

The Sachertorte at Hotel Sacher

This gourmet break led me to check off an idea from my notebook: the cafe at the Hotel Sacher! And I gave in at the end of the day. Arriving in front of the beautiful building with its flags fluttering in the wind, I pushed open the door and entered this temple of Viennese gastronomy (I’m not afraid to say it!). Everything is absolutely magnificent and seems created for one purpose: to offer you a moment outside of time, a moment of grace. The waiters, affable and courteous, treat you with respect without overdoing it. You feel at ease very quickly. And then comes the long-awaited moment where you can order a slice of the famous Sachertorte.

The wait is more than enough to make your mouth water while peeking into the beautiful refrigerated display cases where you can see the cake. And finally, it arrives! Placed on the plate, a beautiful slice of this chocolate pastry filled with apricot jam. A delight! And a must-do if you pass through Vienna.

Purists (and foodies) might want to go taste the great rival to the Sachertorte: the same basic pastry served at Café Demel, as both houses have claimed paternity of the divine dessert… with Café Demel boasting that it was faithfully frequented and appreciated by the imperial family.

Monuments in Vienna's city center

Getting back to touring the city itself, with my map unfolded on the table, held down by my cup and my phone (I was on a terrace), I compared what I was seeing, what was on the map, and the info from my guidebook. When I tell you I’m organized… I pinpointed what I wanted to visit and set off.

City Hall (Rathaus)

I started by walking around a square near Vienna’s City Hall (Rathaus) before discovering another square nearby that would become my home base. I have to say, I found plenty there to sit for a bit, have a drink, grab a snack… In short, enough to survive for a poor French city-dweller lost in the Austrian jungle. This square was very lively and contrasted with the rest of the city, which was calmer.

St. Charles Church

I headed to St. Charles Borromeo Church, about a twenty-minute walk from the Rathaus. At the entrance, for €8, you can access the staircase that leads to an outdoor terrace with a lovely view of the city, as well as an indoor terrace overlooking the organ and, most importantly, the immense frescoes of the dome. The paintings and the Baroque decor made of marble are magnificent. The dimensions are spectacular; the dome reaches 72m in height.

Other things to see: an interactive model of the church, a treasury room with religious objects in precious metal, and luxurious outfits worn by former bishops. Finally, you return to ground level, where you can see the altars and chapels up close and get a dizzying view of the dome.

Day 2

The Belvedere and Schönbrunn, 2 must-sees

The next day, I continued my tourist excursion by heading toward the Belvedere Palace. Besides the architecture, which is simply splendid, it is possible, for a fee, to visit the Gustav Klimt collection. This enormous palace, built in the 18th century and decorated in a Baroque style, includes gardens and an Austrian art museum in the Upper Belvedere.

All that was left was to prepare for my final visit, dedicated to the Schönbrunn Palace, located in the city's 13th district. But visiting this place, on its own, deserves its own post.

Evening at the Opera

While wandering through the city center, I was quite surprised to see young people dressed in period costumes: jabot shirts, flat hats, jackets, tights, and black leather shoes with large square buckles. They were actually selling tickets to attend opera performances. Vienna, the opera: what could be more normal? I had actually planned to go, which is why I’d tucked a suit into my suitcase… A city of culture, the cradle of classical music geniuses, several operas, dance halls, and theaters are active in Vienna. For music in particular, I remember seeing the national opera (Staatsoper) and the popular opera (Volksoper).

But getting back to these brave men dressed as characters from the past, I didn't know if I could trust these people who were actually offering a medley of the most famous opera arias. It still looked like a big tourist trap. Full of optimism and trust despite everything, I finally went for it and booked the tickets.

A quick stop at the hotel to shower and put on my suit, and off to the Volksoper. Once there, I realized that a suit (or evening gown for the ladies) wasn't mandatory, even though a large number of spectators were still well-dressed.

Since I hadn't yet had the chance to attend a real opera, I didn't quite know what to expect. At worst, I told myself the performance was scheduled to last an hour and a half, so I hoped I could make it through… I didn't end up having to force myself, as the show seemed designed to reach the widest possible audience. "Opera for Dummies," in a way. On stage, artists took turns offering us the most famous arias, all punctuated by the music of a real orchestra that was part of the show. It felt like listening to a CD I’d been given a few years ago: "Classical Ads"… There were excerpts from The Marriage of Figaro, Carmen, and arias by Rossini, Verdi, in short, always something to make you say, "Oh, wait, I know this tune!" And, to finish, of course, an excerpt from the "Blue Danube."

Thrilled by this experience, I left the opera with a light and joyful heart. Night had already fallen over Vienna, and I decided to walk a bit before heading back to my hotel. Again, what a joy to feel so safe: not for a second did I need to look over my shoulder or change paths to avoid a dark, deserted alley. It must be said that there aren't really any dark alleys. But above all, the only young person who looked a bit rebellious was only that way because he was listening to music a bit too loudly in his headphones… So, I wandered around a bit before finding my room and falling asleep with the tune of Pachelbel's Canon in my head.

See you soon!