Ha Giang Loop: The ultimate motorcycle route for nature lovers
Traveling for 3 days on the winding, steep roads of Northern Vietnam by scooter? It’s dangerous and definitely not recommended for novice riders. However, for more experienced drivers looking for thrills and breathtaking landscapes, the Ha Giang Loop is an absolute must-do during your time in Vietnam!
I’m sharing our route and impressions from those 3 days lost in the heart of nature and remote villages during our trip to Vietnam in February 2023!
The Ha Giang region, a World Heritage site
Ha Giang is a mountainous province in the far north of Vietnam, bordering China. The Dong Van Karst Plateau, in the north of Ha Giang province, has been recognized as a UNESCO Global Geopark. It is also home to 17 different ethnic groups, most of whom fled neighboring countries in the past and sought refuge in the highlands.
Pictured opposite is a map of Vietnam found on Paradisvoyage.fr
This is a favorite stop for many travelers drawn by the stunning scenery, but also for those who want to get as close as possible to Vietnamese culture. You also need to be a skilled driver who isn't afraid of steep roads, because the Ha Giang Loop is traditionally done… by motorcycle! Let me explain.
Day one from Ha Giang City to Dong Van: Between stress and discovery
We arrived in the late afternoon at a hostel in Ha Giang City (from Hanoi, count on a 5-hour bus ride). This is the starting city (and the finish line, since the route is a loop) for all travelers wanting to venture onto the legendary roads of Northern Vietnam.
There are many hostels and guesthouses in this city and at all the key points along the loop. Some offer all-inclusive group or individual tours (motorcycle, meals, and accommodation for the 3 or 5 days on the road), but you also have the option to do it all yourself and book your hotels online or on the spot, as we did. It is also possible to discover this region by booking a scooter driver, a car, or even taking the bus. However, keep in mind that accidents can happen, regardless of the mode of transport chosen (we saw many).
Not wanting any constraints, we chose to organize everything ourselves. We stayed in a very friendly hostel for €15 for a room with a private bathroom. The next day, we left our big travel bags in a locker there to take only the bare essentials with us. We rented a 150cc scooter directly from the hostel, which is the minimum recommended to have enough power on these winding roads.
Warning: you will need your international driving permit to ride in Vietnam. And with a standard European license, you are not authorized to drive 150cc bikes, only 100cc. Since rental shops aren't very strict about the license, they let us rent a 150cc motorcycle anyway. However, we saw many police checkpoints during our journey. If you get stopped, you will have to pay a large deposit to the vehicle rental company, who will have to come and pick you up, plus a fine to the government.
After a few instructions, we were off, map in hand (no signal up there), for 3 days in the Vietnamese mountains with our Pikachu helmets chosen for the occasion!
The start was a bit complicated. My boyfriend had to pilot a small-displacement bike with two passengers on board, plus our travel bag on the back. You have to get used to the vehicle and the narrow, steep roads. The weather wasn't on our side either. We were prepared for the cold, but not for the rain and fog. So we went for it, but slowly. As the journey progressed, we started to relax and really enjoy it. We crossed paths with many people on the roads, plenty of tourists, but also locals and children who waved at us. We even had to stop on some stretches because the Vietnamese workers seemed to be working on the roads. And they are the ones who decide when you're allowed to pass! It can take 10 minutes or... an hour!
That evening, we were supposed to sleep in a tent with an unbeatable view of the mountains. Because of the weather, we canceled our night and knocked on the door of a small hotel in Dong Van to spend the night in the warmth and dry our soaked clothes. We took the opportunity to explore. The town has a very nice little historic center with a beautiful, lively square and some great traditional restaurants.
Second day to Tinh Ha, through a thick layer of mist
The next day, the weather was a little less terrible. It barely rained anymore, but there was still just as much fog. We couldn't see much, which made driving even riskier. But that didn't matter, the adventure was there! We started to get a taste for it and told ourselves how lucky we were to be living this experience. It felt a bit like a Lord of the Rings atmosphere, and we loved it.
This part of the loop is the most spectacular. We stopped regularly to admire the landscape. Despite the weather, it was still pretty crazy. Winding roads in the middle of fields, colossal cone-shaped mountains brushing against the clouds... These are truly landscapes you don't see back home.
That night, we slept in a guesthouse in Tinh Ha. The atmosphere was truly authentic. We slept in an all-wood house with bedrooms and a shared bathroom upstairs. The rooms weren't insulated at all, but there was a huge duvet available. We just had a mattress on the floor as a bed, which was enough after a long day of travel. The host prepared a huge dinner for all the travelers present. It was the perfect time to meet people, chat, and also try "ruou can," the traditional Vietnamese rice wine. It was a beautiful final evening to finish the trip.
Final day: Among ethnic groups, lost little villages, and children
The next day, we took a tour of the traditional market in Tinh Ha. The stalls were full of color and people were shouting in the street to sell their livestock. It was a truly folkloric atmosphere. The sky was mostly clear, so we took advantage of it. We took detours to ride on small roads where we didn't cross anyone. We passed through villages lost in the middle of the mountains. The inhabitants lived in shacks without electricity. We passed little ones with small wicker baskets on their backs who waved at us, and mothers washing their little ones in the rivers. The poverty is striking and chilling, but the smiles of the people every time we passed warmed our hearts a little.
Ultimately, despite the weather, we will take away something extraordinary from this experience. We loved it so much that we would like to do it again at a better time of year to see the fields filled with greenery and flowers. It remains a dangerous activity, however, because neither the rental vehicles nor the roads are made for this climate and environment. You have to be attentive and cautious. If you are careful and know how to drive: go for it! You won't regret it!
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