The Royal Library of Turin and the smile of Leonardo
In a palace within Turin's historic center, behind an understated facade that gives nothing away, sits one of the most famous drawings in the world. The Autoritratto (Self-Portrait) by Leonardo da Vinci, a red chalk sketch on paper showing the master’s aged, fragile features, has been kept here for centuries. Few travelers realize just how close they can get to it.
Why visit the Royal Library?
Founded in 1831 by King Charles Albert of Sardinia, the Royal Library is not a museum in the traditional sense. It is a living archival repository, overseen by the Ministero della Cultura, housing over 200,000 volumes, thousands of manuscripts, antique maps, and a collection of drawings of exceptional value. Among these are approximately 1,500 master drawings by Italian and international artists from the 15th to the 18th centuries.
The building itself is part of the Royal Palace of Turin complex, a UNESCO World Heritage site. The atmosphere inside is studious and hushed, a sharp contrast to the bustle of the major museums nearby.
The self-portrait of Leonardo da Vinci
This is the piece around which everything revolves. The red chalk drawing, dated to around 1512, depicts an older man with an intense gaze, heavy eyebrows, and a long beard. It is widely attributed to Leonardo as a self-portrait, though some art historians continue to debate this identification.
The work is displayed only periodically. Due to its extreme sensitivity to light, it remains in climate-controlled storage for most of the year. Before making the trip, you must check the official website to confirm if it is currently on public display.
Pro tip: The library regularly hosts temporary exhibitions that grant access to pieces usually kept in storage. Check the calendar on the official website before your visit, as these events are often when the Leonardo self-portrait is brought out for the public.
Other treasures in the collection
Beyond Leonardo, the drawing collection includes works attributed to Raphael, Fra Angelico, Dürer, and Rembrandt. While not all are on permanent display, thematic exhibitions highlight them in remarkable ways.
The library also holds illuminated manuscripts, incunabula, and a significant collection of historical photography documenting Piedmont and the House of Savoy.
Why you should visit
- One of the few places on earth to view a Leonardo drawing in an intimate setting
- Far less crowded than Turin's major museums
- Exceptional historic setting within the UNESCO Royal Palace complex
- Temporary exhibitions that are often highly curated and niche
Things to keep in mind
- The Leonardo self-portrait is not always on display; verify dates before heading out
- Access to specific collections may require booking or be tied to temporary exhibits
- Limited English signage on-site
Opening hours
Hours vary depending on current exhibitions and public access periods.
Check the official website of the Royal Library of Turin or the Musei Reali di Torino site before your visit to confirm available time slots.
How long for this activity
Plan on 45 minutes to 1 hour and 30 minutes depending on the current exhibit. The tour of the rooms open to the public is generally quick, but the density of the works on display makes it worth taking your time.
The Royal Library of Turin is very beautiful, although a bit small. The wooden interior is antique and well preserved. The place is calm and invites serenity. It is a shame that it is not possible to consult all the works, especially those by Leonardo da Vinci.