Remich, the wine village where Luxembourg slows down
The bridge crosses the Moselle, and suddenly Germany disappears behind you. A cherry tree-lined quay stretches for nearly two miles. Cafe terraces spill out onto the promenade, and the air carries the scent of grapevines and limestone.
Welcome to the small capital of Luxembourgish wine, a town of 3,600 people where Romans were already cultivating grapes two millennia ago.
A getaway for those who appreciate the slow life
This destination is for relaxed epicureans. Wine lovers will find a condensed experience here with century-old cellars, generous tastings, and approachable winemakers. Cyclists will appreciate the path that runs along the river toward Schengen or Trier.
Families can enjoy river cruises and the outdoor pool in the summer.
Not for those seeking a fast pace
If you are looking for nightlife or high-octane attractions, you might find the time moves a bit slowly here. The town closes early, restaurants are few and far between, and shopping is limited to a handful of souvenir shops. This is Luxembourg in its peaceful, almost village-like form.
An easy and multilingual destination
Luxembourgish blends with French, German, and English effortlessly. The sense of security is absolute. Since March 2020, all public transport in the Grand Duchy has been free.
Budget: the flip side of Luxembourg
Luxembourg remains a pricey destination. Expect to pay 90 to 150 euros (about $98 to $163) for a decent hotel room and 25 to 40 euros (about $27 to $44) for a meal on the esplanade. Tastings in the cellars range between 9 and 14 euros (about $10 to $15) per person.
The cellars of the Moselle: diving into limestone
The Caves St Martin, carved from 1919 to 1921 into a limestone massif, are the highlight of any visit. Nearly a kilometer of underground tunnels kept at 12°C (54°F) house thousands of bottles of crémant de Luxembourg.
This sparkling wine is produced using the traditional method. The guided tour lasts about 45 minutes and ends with a generous tasting. Bring a jacket.
The Pavillon Saint-Martin, at the foot of the cliff, allows you to extend the experience with fine cuisine facing the Moselle. Several other wineries dot the region: Domaine Claude Bentz, Domaine Kox, and Benoît & Claude Viticulteurs.
Local tip: book your cellar tours online in advance, especially on weekends. Time slots fill up quickly in peak season.
The esplanade and cruises: the Moselle in contemplative mode
The esplanade of Remich runs along the river for three kilometers. It is the beating heart of the town. Terraces align facing the water, swans parade by, and barges glide by in silence.
In the evening, the low light on the German vineyards on the other bank creates a calming scene.
The Navitours company offers one-hour panoramic cruises toward the wine villages of Stadtbredimus, Bech-Kleinmacher, and Schwebsange. You can discover the Haff Réimech nature reserve, old gravel pits converted into a bird sanctuary.
The Wine Route by bike: from Schengen to Grevenmacher
The PC3 bike path connects Schengen to Wasserbillig by following the Moselle. Flat and perfectly maintained, it passes through the most beautiful wine villages in Luxembourg.
From Remich, count on about six miles toward the south to reach Schengen, where a monument commemorates the signing of the famous free-movement accords. To the north, the path leads to Ehnen, Wormeldange, and Grevenmacher.
The RentaBike Miselerland service allows you to rent standard or electric bikes directly on-site. Public transport accepts bikes for free.
Where to eat and drink in Remich?
The friture de la Moselle (fried river fish) reigns over local menus. These small fried fish, served crispy with tartar sauce, pair perfectly with a glass of local Riesling or Auxerrois.
Pike with beurre blanc is among the classics. The more adventurous will try Judd mat Gaardebounen, smoked pork collar with broad beans, the national dish of Luxembourg.
The restaurant at Hôtel-Restaurant L'Esplanade has been serving refined French-Luxembourgish cuisine for 45 years. The Pavillon Saint-Martin offers a more modern setting facing the river. For a casual vibe, the Tiny Bar has set up deckchairs on an artificial sand beach.
Where to stay in and around Remich?
Hôtel-Restaurant L'Esplanade occupies an ideal position on the banks of the Moselle, with 18 rooms, some of which offer a view of the river. Gastronomic stays start around 145 euros (about $158).
Hôtel Hui Feng, more modest, offers 8 quiet rooms with a view of the river. For an upscale stay with a spa, the Domaine la Forêt nearby features luxurious suites, an indoor pool, and a sauna.
The youth hostel in Remerschen, a few miles toward Schengen, offers an economical alternative.
How to get to and around Remich?
From Luxembourg City, bus 413 connects the central station to Remich in about 40 minutes. Departures occur every 30 minutes. Public transport is entirely free in Luxembourg.
By car, count on 25 minutes via the A13 and then the N10. From Paris, the TGV reaches Luxembourg in 2 hours and 10 minutes. From Metz, count on one hour by regional train, then a 40-minute bus ride.
Luxembourg-Findel Airport is 15 kilometers (about 9 miles) away. From Trier in Germany, the bike path follows the Moselle for 50 kilometers (about 31 miles).
When to go?
The ideal period extends from May to September, when the terraces come alive and the vines turn green. July and August draw crowds on weekends.
The September grape harvest offers a special atmosphere in the wine villages. The Bacchusfest celebrates wine every autumn. In winter, Remich closes in on itself and many establishments shut down.
Located right near the German border, Remich is an underrated town with a very pleasant setting. Bordered by the Moselle river, the beautiful Réimecher Bësch forest, and renowned vineyards, it is a perfect destination for a day trip in nature. Many hiking trails run through the forest. The Moselle also offers walks, kayaking, or boat rides. You can taste the best wines of Luxembourg here, such as Riesling, Pinot Gris, and Crémant. I recommend the caves Saint-Martin.