Remich, the wine village where Luxembourg slows down
The bridge spans the Moselle, and Germany disappears behind you. A cherry-lined promenade stretches for two miles. Café terraces spill onto the walkway, and the air carries a scent of grapevine leaves and limestone.
Welcome to the small capital of Luxembourg wine, a town of 3,600 residents where the Romans were already growing grapes two millennia ago.
A getaway for slow living enthusiasts
This destination speaks to easygoing epicureans. Wine lovers will find a concentration of excellence here with century-old wine cellars, generous tastings, and approachable winemakers. Cyclists will appreciate the path running along the river all the way to Schengen or Trier.
Families will enjoy the river cruises and the outdoor swimming pool in the summer.
Not for those looking for a lively scene
Anyone seeking nightlife or spectacular attractions will find the time drags a bit here. The town closes early, restaurants are sparse, and shopping is limited to a few souvenir boutiques. This is Luxembourg in its peaceful, almost village-like version.
An easy and multilingual destination
Luxembourgish blends easily with French, German, and English. The sense of security is total. Since March 2020, all public transportation throughout the Grand Duchy has been free.
Budget: the flip side of the Luxembourg coin
Luxembourg remains an expensive destination. Expect $102 to $169* for a decent hotel room, and $29 to $45* for a meal on the esplanade. Tastings in the cellars range between $11 and $16* per person.
The Moselle cellars: diving into the limestone rock
The St Martin Cellars, carved between 1919 and 1921 into a limestone massif, form the highlight of any visit. Nearly half a mile of underground tunnels maintained at 54°F (12°C) shelter thousands of bottles of Luxembourg Crémant.
This sparkling wine is produced using the traditional method. The guided tour lasts about 45 minutes and ends with a generous tasting. Bring a jacket.
The Saint-Martin Pavilion, at the foot of the cliff, lets you extend the experience with fine dining facing the Moselle. Several other wine estates dot the region: Domaine Claude Bentz, Domaine Kox, Benoît & Claude Viticulteurs.
Friendly tip: book your cellar tours online in advance, especially on weekends. Time slots fill up fast in high season.
The esplanade and cruises: the Moselle in contemplative mode
The Remich esplanade runs alongside the river for two miles. It is the beating heart of the town. Terraces line up facing the water, swans glide by, and riverboats drift in silence.
In the evening, the low light on the German vineyards across the water creates a soothing scene.
The Navitours company offers one-hour scenic cruises toward the wine villages of Stadtbredimus, Bech-Kleinmacher, and Schwebsange. Along the way, you discover the Haff Réimech nature reserve, former gravel pits converted into a bird refuge.
The Wine Route by bike: from Schengen to Grevenmacher
The PC3 bike path connects Schengen to Wasserbillig along the Moselle. Flat and perfectly maintained, it passes through the finest wine villages in Luxembourg.
From Remich, plan for about ten kilometers heading south to reach Schengen, where a monument commemorates the signing of the famous free movement agreements. Heading north, the path leads to Ehnen, Wormeldange, and Grevenmacher.
The RentaBike Miselerland service lets you rent standard or electric bikes directly on site. Public transit accepts bicycles for free.
Where to eat and drink in Remich?
Moselle fried fish reigns over local menus. These small fried fish, served crispy with tartar sauce, pair perfectly with a glass of local Riesling or Auxerrois.
Pike with beurre blanc sauce ranks among the classics. More adventurous eaters can try Judd mat Gaardebounen, smoked pork collar with broad beans, the national dish of Luxembourg.
The restaurant at the Hotel-Restaurant L'Esplanade has served careful French-Luxembourgish cuisine for 45 years. The Saint-Martin Pavilion offers a more design-forward setting facing the river. For a relaxed vibe, the Tiny Bar sets up lounge chairs on an artificial sand beach.
Where to stay in Remich and surrounding areas?
The Hotel-Restaurant L'Esplanade holds an ideal position right by the Moselle, featuring 18 rooms, some with river views. Gourmet stays start around $163*.
The more modest Hotel Hui Feng offers 8 quiet rooms with river views. For an upscale stay with a spa, the nearby Domaine la Forêt features luxurious suites, an indoor pool, and a sauna.
The Remerschen youth hostel, a few kilometers toward Schengen, provides a budget-friendly alternative.
How to get to and around Remich?
From Luxembourg City, bus 413 connects the central station to Remich in about 40 minutes. Departures run every 30 minutes. Public transit is entirely free in Luxembourg.
By car, figure on 25 minutes via the A13 then the N10. Travelers from North America usually fly into Luxembourg-Findel or Frankfurt and continue by train or car; from Paris, the TGV reaches Luxembourg in 2 hours and 10 minutes. From Metz, plan for an hour on the TER train followed by a 40-minute bus ride.
The Luxembourg-Findel Airport sits 9 miles away. From Trier in Germany, the bike path runs alongside the Moselle for 30 miles.
When to go?
The ideal period runs from May to September, when terraces come alive and the vineyards turn green. July and August draw crowds on the weekends.
The September grape harvest brings a unique atmosphere to the wine villages. The Bacchusfest celebrates wine every autumn. In winter, Remich closes in on itself and several establishments shut down.
Located right near the German border, Remich is an underrated town with a very pleasant setting. Bordered by the Moselle river, the beautiful Réimecher Bësch forest, and renowned vineyards, it is a perfect destination for a day trip in nature. Many hiking trails run through the forest. The Moselle also offers walks, kayaking, or boat rides. You can taste the best wines of Luxembourg here, such as Riesling, Pinot Gris, and Crémant. I recommend the caves Saint-Martin.