Visiting Evreux
As the capital of the Eure department, the city of Evreux often gets overlooked by travelers coming out of Paris. Yet this charming Norman city makes for an easy weekend getaway, hiding plenty of architectural and cultural treasures in its streets.
A stunning cathedral
Located not far from Deauville and Giverny, Evreux counts among the prettier corners of Normandy. Despite the heavy damage it took during World War II, the city rebuilt itself and now greets visitors with a very welcoming look. The most striking landmark here is definitely the Notre-Dame Cathedral. Built in 1076, it displays a broad sweep of religious architecture styles, shifting from Romanesque to Renaissance. It is a genuine journey through time. The cathedral earned historic monument status thanks to its collection of 70 stained-glass windows. One of the most famous depicts the Virgin and Child draped in a yellow coat, an unusual color achieved by a master glassmaker using silver salt.
Art, history, and sweets
Right next to the Notre-Dame Cathedral sits the episcopal palace, built in 1499. This handsome stone building stands out as one of the last examples of Gothic architecture in Normandy. Today, it houses the Museum of Art, History, and Archaeology, which deserves a proper look. Its collections range widely from prehistory to Art Deco, alongside Flemish paintings. The third unmissable spot in Evreux is its belfry, also known as the Clock Tower, located right by city hall and looking particularly good when lit up at night. The historic bell inside, named La Louyse, inspired a local treat combining apple compote and dark chocolate ganache infused with Calvados, known as the Louyse du Beffroi. It is a mandatory stop for anyone with a sweet tooth.
A touch of greenery
Evreux and its surrounding areas offer some very pleasant walks. The Coteaux de Saint-Michel hills give you an elevated view over the entire city. Their protected Natura 2000 pastures are populated by grazing sheep that keep the grass trim. Locals love coming up here for weekend strolls and picnics. Make sure to also check out the botanical garden in François Mitterrand Park. The glass-and-iron greenhouse was designed by artist Christiane Müller and holds over 400 plant species from around the globe. Inside the park itself, a 1.5 km art trail invites you to slow down and look around, featuring contemporary sculptures set up by eight different artists.
When to go
Normandy winters are not known for mild weather. If you want to dodge the rain, aim for the warmer months between May and September.
How to get there
Few Parisians make the trip down, yet Evreux sits just 55 minutes by train from the capital, making it an easy excursion. If you are arriving from further afield, you can fly into Paris and hop straight on a train heading to the Evreux station.
I really liked my time in Evreux. I stayed for the day. The city center is pretty and well preserved. There are some beautiful buildings, especially the cathedral and the square around it. On the weekend, it is quite lively. There are a good number of shops and restaurants. The city has managed to keep its charm.