Visiting Evreux
As the administrative center of the Eure department, Evreux is frequently overlooked by travelers based in the Paris region. However, this charming Norman city is an ideal weekend getaway. Its cultural and architectural heritage holds several surprises.
A grand cathedral
Located within easy reach of Deauville and Giverny, Evreux ranks among the most picturesque corners of Normandy. Despite the heavy damage it endured during World War II, the city rebuilt itself and now offers a very welcoming atmosphere. The most striking landmark is undoubtedly the Notre-Dame Cathedral. Built in 1076, it provides a comprehensive timeline of religious art, spanning from the Romanesque era to the Renaissance. The cathedral is a state-classified monument, largely due to its collection of 70 stained-glass windows. One of the most notable depicts the Virgin and Child dressed in a yellow cloak, a distinct color achieved by a master glazier using silver salt.
Art, history, and local sweets
Right next to the cathedral stands the episcopal palace, built in 1499. This structure is known for being one of the last remaining examples of Gothic architecture in Normandy. It now houses the Museum of Art, History and Archaeology, which is worth a visit for its diverse collections, ranging from prehistoric artifacts and Flemish paintings to Art Deco pieces. The third essential monument in town is the Belfry, located on the Place de l'Hotel de Ville. It is also known as the Clock Tower when it lights up at night. Its bell, nicknamed "la Louyse," inspired a local confection called the Louyse du Beffroi, which features apple preserve and a dark chocolate ganache infused with Calvados. It is a must-try for anyone with a sweet tooth.
Green spaces
There are some lovely walking paths in and around Evreux. The Coteaux de Saint-Michel offer the perfect vantage point to look out over the city. These pastures are part of a protected Natura 2000 zone and are kept trimmed by grazing sheep. It is a popular spot for a weekend stroll or a picnic. Also, do not miss the Botanical Garden of Parc Francois Mitterrand. The glass and metal greenhouse was designed by artist Christiane Muller and houses over 400 plant species from around the world. Within the park, a 1.5-kilometer trail features contemporary works from eight different sculptors, making for a quiet, contemplative walk.
When to go
Normandy is not known for its mild winters. If you want to avoid rain, plan your visit during the warmer months, from May through September.
How to get there
While few Parisians make the trip, Evreux is only a 55-minute drive from the capital. If you are flying into France from the US, you will likely land at a Paris airport before catching a train to the Evreux station.
I really liked my time in Evreux. I stayed for the day. The city center is pretty and well preserved. There are some beautiful buildings, especially the cathedral and the square around it. On the weekend, it is quite lively. There are a good number of shops and restaurants. The city has managed to keep its charm.