Visiting Anduze: Between the Cévennes, bamboo forests, and Protestant history
Sitting on the edge of the Cévennes in the Gard department, Anduze balances medieval roots, a Mediterranean pace, and an open gateway to the wooded hills of the southern Massif Central. This small town served as a historic crossroads between the mountains and the plains, which explains its deep-seated craft traditions and a local energy that remains authentic long after the summer crowds have cleared out.
An old town centered on the Clock Tower
The historic core of Anduze is best explored on foot. The Tour de l'Horloge (Clock Tower) looms over the narrow, curved streets, serving as a relic of the town's medieval fortifications. At its base, the places couvertes (covered squares), such as the place Couverte or the place Notre-Dame, host the local markets, cafes, and small shops. You will also find the protestant church here, a testament to the town's strong Huguenot identity.
A steam train in the gorges
The most popular attraction is the Train à vapeur des Cévennes (Cévennes Steam Train), which runs between Anduze and Saint-Jean-du-Gard through steep, lush landscapes. The trip takes about one hour and follows the Gardon river. The route includes a stop to visit the famous Bambouseraie de Prafrance, one of the largest bamboo gardens in Europe, located just outside the town limits.
Hiking the rivers and hills
For those who enjoy walking, several trails lead into the hills surrounding Anduze. The rocher de Saint-Julien offers a clear view over the Gardon valley. Several loops ranging from easy to moderate are accessible directly from town. In the summer, the Gardon becomes a favored swimming spot, with several natural beaches located just a few minutes’ walk from the center.
Deep roots in local craft
Anduze is known for its glazed terracotta vases, which have been produced here since the 17th century. Several workshops are still active and open to visitors, particularly on the north side of town. You will see the signature godroon shapes that now decorate gardens and hotels across the region. This artisanal heritage remains a major identifier of the local culture.
A cuisine of earth, river, and brushland
The Anduze table draws from both Cévennes and Mediterranean influences. You will find pélardon (an AOP goat cheese), sweet onions from the Cévennes, and dishes featuring chestnuts, especially in the fall. For meat, wild boar stew or causse lamb are common menu items. For dessert, reinette apples or chestnut creams often accompany seasonal pastries.
Where to eat?
- La Rocaille (center): A refined bistro using fresh ingredients with a daily menu and a pleasant shaded terrace.
- Le Cabanon (near the Gardon): Homemade cooking with a relaxed vibe and solid regional dishes.
- Le Tamtam des Gourmets (center): A small, understated restaurant well-regarded for its house-made desserts and seasonal menu.
Where to stay?
- Hôtel Les 3 Barbus (above the Bambouseraie): Offers panoramic views of the gorges, an on-site restaurant, and an outdoor pool.
- Apart'Hôtel Les 4 Sources (banks of the Gardon): Studio-style accommodations that are ideal for families and offer good value.
- La Porte des Cévennes (road to Saint-Jean-du-Gard): A comfortable hotel with a pool and clear views of the surrounding hills.
When to go?
Spring (April to June) and autumn (September to October) are the most pleasant times to visit, offering mild weather and high-contrast landscapes. Summer is hotter and more crowded, especially on market days and during the festive events around July 14th.
How to get there?
From Nîmes, Anduze is a 45-minute drive or reachable by regional bus via Alès. The nearest train station is in Alès, which is served by TER trains from Nîmes. From there, you can take a bus or taxi to reach the center of Anduze (about 9 miles or 15 km).
How to get around?
The town center is easily walkable. To explore the surrounding areas, a car remains the best option. While some hiking trails start directly from town, public transportation options are limited outside of the peak season.
Anduze is the starting point for the Cévennes steam train, which is an absolute must-do with the family. Near the village, you will find some beautiful hikes and you can also swim in some heavenly spots in the Gardon gorges. It is an ideal place for camping, and I actually have my favorite campground there with direct access to the river. Anduze is also known for its pottery and especially for its bamboo garden.